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William R. Watt
 
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Default Using laminated veneer?

"jotis" ) writes:
Hello -

I would like to build a dinghy or small sailboat using the cold-molded
plywood method, sometimes called laminated veneer.
4. Adhesives - must if be epoxy? How about using the "construction" types
glues?


for a small boat kept under cover when not in use the construction
polyurethane or the plastic resin (urea formaldehyde) are okay. the
plastic resin has to be a tight fit and over 70 deg F to cure. I've used
both on small plywood boats (not cold moulded). I don't have many clamps and
prefer to screw-and-glue instead for gunwales, chines, etc. TF Jones
wrties about a cold moulded kayak bottom made with cedar veneer and
plastic resin which was still tight after 9 years. It was kept in a shed
when not in use.

you can test glues by buying small quantities and gluing up small pieces.
I normally do that with any new building method or material.
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jotis
 
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Default Using laminated veneer?

Many thanks, William

I have begun a few tests for adhesive qualities - you know: edge to edge
bonding to see which fails first, the joint or the wood.

What I wanted to know was the suitability of smearing the construction glue
between layers of each veneer ply as is applied to the layer underneath. I
don't know how to evaluate that.

Regards,

Joseph




"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...
"jotis" ) writes:
Hello -

I would like to build a dinghy or small sailboat using the cold-molded
plywood method, sometimes called laminated veneer.
4. Adhesives - must if be epoxy? How about using the "construction"

types
glues?


for a small boat kept under cover when not in use the construction
polyurethane or the plastic resin (urea formaldehyde) are okay. the
plastic resin has to be a tight fit and over 70 deg F to cure. I've used
both on small plywood boats (not cold moulded). I don't have many clamps

and
prefer to screw-and-glue instead for gunwales, chines, etc. TF Jones
wrties about a cold moulded kayak bottom made with cedar veneer and
plastic resin which was still tight after 9 years. It was kept in a shed
when not in use.

you can test glues by buying small quantities and gluing up small pieces.
I normally do that with any new building method or material.
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www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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William R. Watt
 
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Default Using laminated veneer?

"jotis" ) writes:

What I wanted to know was the suitability of smearing the construction glue
between layers of each veneer ply as is applied to the layer underneath. I
don't know how to evaluate that.


I've laminated doorskin lauan ("mahogony") plywood with PL Premium. There
is a photo on my website under "Boats", "folding cabin". You squeeze a
bead on with the caulking gun and then spread it with a putty knife or
similar. I've never made a cold moulded hull. If you are cold moulding
there would likely not be enough stiffness in the first layer of veneer to
spread it on the hull so you would spread the adhesive on the second layer
strip instead. I laminated the transom of the Dogskiff on my website with
plastic resin glue. Only photos of the finished boat on the website for
that one. The boat was launched spring of1999 and the transom is fine.

A guy named Steve Ladd built a 12 ft cold moulded cedar and fibreglass
boat called "Squeak" for $2000 in 1990 and spent 3 years sailing it in the
USA and South America. The boat was decked over with a cockpit and weighed
250 pounds. There are some photos on the Intenet. His book is called
"Three Years in a Twelve Foot Boat". the book does not describe building
the boat.

BTW the specially cut cedar strips for "stripper" construction are pretty
expensive compared to cutting your own strips of plywood veneer for cold
moulding. You also need moulds 12-14 inches apart because the strips are
so flexible. They have little strength of their own. That comes from the
fibreglass that goes over them. You can compare prices. I think you can
find stripper prices at www.bearmountianboats.com.

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