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#1
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
I have heard that bead and cove joints can be used for mast/spar building.
Anyone ever done this? -- Art Ransom Lancaster , Texas www.turningaround.org |
#2
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
On Mon, 5 Dec 2005 16:18:40 -0600, "Art Ransom"
wrote: I have heard that bead and cove joints can be used for mast/spar building. Anyone ever done this? A similar, less labor intensive method is providing strips with one fish mouth edge - 45 degrees, 90 degrees, 45 degrees. The fish mouth fits the inner edge of the next strip. All held together with hose clamps or tourniquets during glueing. There is an optimal width/thickness for a mast diameter. Search the web Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#3
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
That's the "Noble System" which was written up as "Bird's Mouth Hollow
Spars" by Aimé Ontario Fraser in Wooden Boat Magazine, July/August 1999 I've an expurgated version of the Wooden Boat article, with photos, that I prepared if you'd like it. (Aimé spent too may words on social/dining issues for my taste.) It's a huge file, 16 MBy, and of course it's copyrighted material. The scantlings given were, for an 8-sided spar: Stave width: 0.4 x diameter of spar - taper square edge Stave thickness: between 0.1 and 0.2 x spar diameter - (bigger for big boats) (0.2 for spruce, 0.15 for Douglas Fir) I think the scheme is also discussed near the back of Hassler/McCloud's "Practical Junk Rig." Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm "Brian Whatcott" wrote in message ... On Mon, 5 Dec 2005 16:18:40 -0600, "Art Ransom" wrote: I have heard that bead and cove joints can be used for mast/spar building. Anyone ever done this? A similar, less labor intensive method is providing strips with one fish mouth edge - 45 degrees, 90 degrees, 45 degrees. The fish mouth fits the inner edge of the next strip. All held together with hose clamps or tourniquets during glueing. There is an optimal width/thickness for a mast diameter. Search the web Brian Whatcott Altus OK |
#4
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
For me, the Herreshoff system of making a rectangular spar is so much
simpler and more likely to come out well that it is worth considering. A rabit is made in the edges of the two side (cheek) pieces and the two other pieces (fore and aft) fit into them. |
#5
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
"derbyrm" wrote in message
news:kcglf.624312$xm3.226764@attbi_s21... That's the "Noble System" which was written up as "Bird's Mouth Hollow Spars" by Aimé Ontario Fraser in Wooden Boat Magazine, July/August 1999 I've an expurgated version of the Wooden Boat article, with photos, that I prepared if you'd like it. (Aimé spent too may words on social/dining issues for my taste.) It's a huge file, 16 MBy, and of course it's copyrighted material. The scantlings given were, for an 8-sided spar: Stave width: 0.4 x diameter of spar - taper square edge Stave thickness: between 0.1 and 0.2 x spar diameter - (bigger for big boats) (0.2 for spruce, 0.15 for Douglas Fir) I found a few programs to calculate the dimensions. Although windows applications, they're only 60kB large. I can mail them to anyone who's interested. Meindert |
#6
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
http://www.woodline.com/scripts/instructions.asp gives instructions on
how to do this for varying numbers of strakes using their router bits. Frank |
#7
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
Presently I am using the birdmouth and have used it with columns up to 16"
in diameter. I am interested in the bead and cove because it would give me more flexibility in the number of staves. -- Art Ransom Lancaster , Texas www.turningaround.org |
#8
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
I guess it would, but that flexibility comes with the loss of the
self-jigging features. If oval columns are acceptable, then go for it. The router bits mentioned at http://www.woodline.com/Downloads/BIRDMOUTH.pdf do provide for 6, 8, 12, and 16 sided columns. Roger http://home.insightbb.com/~derbyrm "Art Ransom" wrote in message . .. Presently I am using the birdmouth and have used it with columns up to 16" in diameter. I am interested in the bead and cove because it would give me more flexibility in the number of staves. -- Art Ransom Lancaster , Texas www.turningaround.org |
#9
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
On Wed, 07 Dec 2005 13:23:13 GMT, "derbyrm"
wrote: I guess it would, but that flexibility comes with the loss of the self-jigging features. If oval columns are acceptable, then go for it. =============================== No reason for oval columns if you build around a form such as PVC pipe or something similar. |
#10
posted to rec.boats.building
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bead and cove joints
"Art Ransom" wrote in message . .. Presently I am using the birdmouth and have used it with columns up to 16" in diameter. I am interested in the bead and cove because it would give me more flexibility in the number of staves. You can use the bird's mouth for any number of staves, you just need to carefully calculate (or draw) the angle of the female part. Tim W |
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