I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60 or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

It takes quite a wallop unless it's hit by a pointed object. On the other
hand, my Triumph Spitfire side window exploded when a cold front went thru.
The top arrangement meant that it was continually pressed outward which may
have contributed.

Any scratch is disastrous!

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Nigel" wrote in message
...
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

Nigel wrote:

I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch.

There's also Gebo. I've recently replaced a Lewmar 60 (I think it's a
60 - approx hole size 50x50cm) with a Gebo from Seateach for £237.

They are both the same size (they're both the same size)

Something tells me they might be the same size.

The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper

My Lewmar was of the older "roll-stop" design. I replaced it because
the perspex had cracked, as a result of the Lewmar's design feature
that the click-stops only go as far as 90 degrees. If you push open
beyond straight-up, it just falls fully open, unbraked, onto whatever
happens to be lying on deck at the time, such as the anchor. :-(

You can have my broken Lewmar if you like, and if you want to see if
you can pop the perspex out of its frame and source a replacement, and
drill holes for the handles and transfer them.

You can have it for £0 plus postage.

Nigel wrote:
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60 or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object


Yes. Glass breaks, perspex scratches and goes foggy. That's the choice.

If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.

"Nigel" wrote in message
...
I need to buy a new deck hatch. The choice seems to be either a Lewmar 60
or
a Houdini super 50 foredeck hatch. They are both the same size (they're
both the same size) The Lewmar has Perspex (12mm I think) and the Houdini
6mm toughen glass. Houdini are a lot cheaper and I quite like the idea of
toughened glass, but is toughened glass likely to shatter into little
squares if it's walloped by a clew or similar object

"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...
If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic
or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking while at
sea. As you say, a hatch failure could threaten the boat and it could be
difficult to make one up in a hurry when offshore. It also means you always
have a useful bit of ply around if needed for other things, and they're easy
to stow as they are small and flat enough to sit at the bottom of a locker.

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote

For a deck hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put
safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Pete

"Pete Verdon" d wrote in
message ...
Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote

For a deck hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put
safety first.

It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Pete
Mine are fashioned on the assumption that the whole of the hinged opening
part, frame and all, has gone (or is folded flat), and simply blanks off the
opening.

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Pete Verdon" d wrote

How would you fix the forehatch board in place if the glass/perspex were
to break?

Mine are fashioned on the assumption that the whole of the hinged opening
part, frame and all, has gone (or is folded flat), and simply blanks off the
opening.

Right, but how do you plan to secure it in place?

I'm not trying to nitpick, by the way, I'm just curious.

Pete

Duncan Heenan wrote:
"Jim Conlin" wrote in message
...

If reglazing an existing hatch is an option, i'd strongly favor reglazing
with polycarbonate (such as Lexan). It won't weather as well as acrylic
or
glass but it will be much less likely to fail in an impact. For a deck
hatch, where failure might endanger the vessel, i'd put safety first.


It's slightly off topic, but I carry some plywood cut-outs to act as
emergency hatch closers in the event of a hatch or window breaking while at
sea. As you say, a hatch failure could threaten the boat and it could be
difficult to make one up in a hurry when offshore. It also means you always
have a useful bit of ply around if needed for other things, and they're easy
to stow as they are small and flat enough to sit at the bottom of a locker.



Good idea!