See http://www.gartsideboats.com/jessie.php
This is a could moulded design, where temporary stringers are laid fore and
aft, to hold steam bent frames. This is covered with two layers of wood, one
1/4" thick, the second 1/8".

When you add a 3rd layer, you can probably
leave the frames out.

Leaving the frames out would be good - otherwise I'd have to put a
layer of wood on the inside too (for comfort reasons - it is a hot
tub).

BTW, this boat is not covered with glass.
If you build the same boat with strips, you need glass inside and out but no
ribs are needed.

I think sheathed strip would be the easiest construction method, if I
could get it to work for the desired curvature. Could I use very thin
wood strips (1/8" or so), and rely almost entirely on the fiberglass
for strength? Basically the only purpose of the wood would be to avoid
making a mold (as would be needed for 100% fiberglass construction).

Meindert

Thanks again

wrote in message
ups.com...
Leaving the frames out would be good - otherwise I'd have to put a
layer of wood on the inside too (for comfort reasons - it is a hot
tub).

Don't know if anyone has mention this before, but as I understand epoxies
are highly sensitive to temperature. This was googled out on "epoxy
temperature" search:
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/novolac.html

I anticipate the tub being about 104 degrees F. So notwithstanding any
problems with my heat source, I should be below the 140-160 degree
maximum (for wet conditions) of regular epoxy. Although my heat source
is wood-fired, I have a thermostat of sorts worked out. I can probably
control the temperature to within a few degrees.