wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi Brian,

I wish there was a standard way to draw diagrams on the net. I'm not
quite sure if I've understood correctly. Do you mean that the first set
of ribs would be mainly vertical (for a "conventional bathtub", they
would look like U's), and the second set would be longitudinal? ie, a
see-through grid of ribs. If so, would you recommend attaching a
sheathing of thin ply before applying the glass skin?

See http://www.gartsideboats.com/jessie.php
This is a could moulded design, where temporary stringers are laid fore and
aft, to hold steam bent frames. This is covered with two layers of wood, one
1/4" thick, the second 1/8". When you add a 3rd layer, you can probably
leave the frames out. BTW, this boat is not covered with glass.
If you build the same boat with strips, you need glass inside and out but no
ribs are needed.

Meindert

See http://www.gartsideboats.com/jessie.php
This is a could moulded design, where temporary stringers are laid fore and
aft, to hold steam bent frames. This is covered with two layers of wood, one
1/4" thick, the second 1/8".

When you add a 3rd layer, you can probably
leave the frames out.

Leaving the frames out would be good - otherwise I'd have to put a
layer of wood on the inside too (for comfort reasons - it is a hot
tub).

BTW, this boat is not covered with glass.
If you build the same boat with strips, you need glass inside and out but no
ribs are needed.

I think sheathed strip would be the easiest construction method, if I
could get it to work for the desired curvature. Could I use very thin
wood strips (1/8" or so), and rely almost entirely on the fiberglass
for strength? Basically the only purpose of the wood would be to avoid
making a mold (as would be needed for 100% fiberglass construction).

Meindert

Thanks again

wrote in message
ups.com...
Leaving the frames out would be good - otherwise I'd have to put a
layer of wood on the inside too (for comfort reasons - it is a hot
tub).

Don't know if anyone has mention this before, but as I understand epoxies
are highly sensitive to temperature. This was googled out on "epoxy
temperature" search:
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/novolac.html

I anticipate the tub being about 104 degrees F. So notwithstanding any
problems with my heat source, I should be below the 140-160 degree
maximum (for wet conditions) of regular epoxy. Although my heat source
is wood-fired, I have a thermostat of sorts worked out. I can probably
control the temperature to within a few degrees.