Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Cold molding with thin strips
wrote in message ups.com... Leaving the frames out would be good - otherwise I'd have to put a layer of wood on the inside too (for comfort reasons - it is a hot tub). Don't know if anyone has mention this before, but as I understand epoxies are highly sensitive to temperature. This was googled out on "epoxy temperature" search: http://www.epoxyproducts.com/novolac.html |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
Cold molding with thin strips
Brian Whatcott wrote:
This is a speculative idea, rather than the fruit of long experience. Yes I am thinking of ply ribs in two directions at right angles, Whose faces are all vertical, so that in plan view, they would look a noughts n crosses game of lines say 1/4 in thick, and in side view they would be 2 inches deep and wide (at the sides.) An internal and external skin would then provide a strong stiff light structure. The crucial detail is making the inside skin fair and smooth. This is left as an exercise for.... :-) Brian Whatcott Interesting idea. For the inner/outer skins, did you have in mind multiple layer of wood like the boat Meindert Sprang pointed out, or fiberglass, or both? I wonder also if it would be wise to put a coat of epoxy on the inner ribs, to prevent rot (just in case steam managed to work through the outer skin somehow). Perhaps regular wood sealer could even be used instead of epoxy, since its adhesive properties aren't needed, only a moisture barrier. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Cold molding with thin strips
I anticipate the tub being about 104 degrees F. So notwithstanding any
problems with my heat source, I should be below the 140-160 degree maximum (for wet conditions) of regular epoxy. Although my heat source is wood-fired, I have a thermostat of sorts worked out. I can probably control the temperature to within a few degrees. |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Cold molding with thin strips
|