My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No exposed
screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia Farichild, if
she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get them but they are
just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less than through hulls
and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders and
never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after market
on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are interested email
me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

On Mon, 06 Oct 2003 21:10:51 -0400, Glenn Ashmore
wrote:

My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No exposed
screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia Farichild, if
she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get them but they are
just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less than through hulls
and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders and
never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after market
on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are interested email
me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.

Glenn, and everybody, I have been dealing with Julia and Steve for a
while now, and they're stuff is absolutely first rate quality. His
welds in the stainless are some of the best I've ever seen, and I was
a rigger for a while.

I bought four heavy transom loops with nice oval faceplates for my
boat. Have yet to install them, but they are stout, perfect
cosmetically, and they were cheap.

Give them a little slack on answering, Julia's having back trouble
right now, though.

Here's a link to their items on Ebay:
http://www.stores.ebay.com/id=75449472

(Not connected, just a happy customer).

Donny

1974 Trojan Sea Raider 25'

www.picturetrail.com/sixbennetts

http://thebayguide.com/rec.boats/donny_bennett.html

Unless the drains are always above water, even when pitching hard in
heavy going, I'd make the holes a lot smaller than 3/4". With a hole
that big you'll be taking in a lot of water on the down stroke and
then draining it back out on the up. The dynamics are such that the
water is more likely to go in than out, so you end up with a lot of
weight in the worst possible place. Check valves are a tempting
solution, but will likely stop working when chain goo gets in them.

Swee****er (Swan 57) had 3/8" holes, I think.

The good news is that it's much easier to put a restrictor in than to
bore them out....

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:Ltogb.52336$sp2.52271@lakeread04...
My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No exposed
screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia Farichild, if
she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get them but they are
just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less than through hulls
and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders and
never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after market
on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are interested email
me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.

That is true IF you mount them straight up and down but if you face them
aft they will still drain when level but when they get below the water
the passing flow will create a venturi effect and they act as bailers.

Fast moving water on the outside and still water on the inside makes
lots of negative pressure.

Jim Woodward wrote:
Unless the drains are always above water, even when pitching hard in
heavy going, I'd make the holes a lot smaller than 3/4". With a hole
that big you'll be taking in a lot of water on the down stroke and
then draining it back out on the up. The dynamics are such that the
water is more likely to go in than out, so you end up with a lot of
weight in the worst possible place. Check valves are a tempting
solution, but will likely stop working when chain goo gets in them.

Swee****er (Swan 57) had 3/8" holes, I think.

The good news is that it's much easier to put a restrictor in than to
bore them out....

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:Ltogb.52336$sp2.52271@lakeread04...

My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No exposed
screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia Farichild, if
she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get them but they are
just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less than through hulls
and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders and
never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after market
on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are interested email
me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote:
That is true IF you mount them straight up and down but if you face them
aft they will still drain when level but when they get below the water
the passing flow will create a venturi effect and they act as bailers.

Fast moving water on the outside and still water on the inside makes
lots of negative pressure.

Jim Woodward wrote:

Unless the drains are always above water, even when pitching hard in
heavy going, I'd make the holes a lot smaller than 3/4". With a hole
that big you'll be taking in a lot of water on the down stroke and
then draining it back out on the up. The dynamics are such that the
water is more likely to go in than out, so you end up with a lot of
weight in the worst possible place. Check valves are a tempting
solution, but will likely stop working when chain goo gets in them.

Swee****er (Swan 57) had 3/8" holes, I think.

The good news is that it's much easier to put a restrictor in than to
bore them out....

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message
news:Ltogb.52336$sp2.52271@lakeread04...

My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No
exposed screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia
Farichild, if she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get
them but they are just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less
than through hulls and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders
and never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after
market on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are
interested email me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.



Yeap,

That's the way most of us that are too stupid to remember to put the
plug in the boat, get all the water out when fishing. Just start moving
and it will suck all the water out, then put the plug in.

Donald

--
I'm building a Steel Robert's 434. You can sneak a peek if you wish by
clicking on me link below.
http://bellsouthpwp.net/d/o/donrayp/
'USA, Home of the best
politicians money can buy'

That was not our experience with Swee****er's drains, which had
clamshells. They regularly streamed water out on the up pitch. Since
the deck was never under water, this was always from water that had
come in on the down stroke.

I think the dynamics are more complex than you describe. Remember
that in heavy going, the water in the wave is itself in a complex
motion. Also, of course, if you put the bow w/l two or three feet
under, you have a significant pressure.

Finally, as you go up a wave, the boat slows markedly at the same time
the bow is deepest.

But, as I said, it's easy to make the holes smaller, so you can wait
and do it if and when you have the problem.

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com


Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:9_zgb.55854$sp2.25562@lakeread04...
That is true IF you mount them straight up and down but if you face them
aft they will still drain when level but when they get below the water
the passing flow will create a venturi effect and they act as bailers.

Fast moving water on the outside and still water on the inside makes
lots of negative pressure.

Jim Woodward wrote:
Unless the drains are always above water, even when pitching hard in
heavy going, I'd make the holes a lot smaller than 3/4". With a hole
that big you'll be taking in a lot of water on the down stroke and
then draining it back out on the up. The dynamics are such that the
water is more likely to go in than out, so you end up with a lot of
weight in the worst possible place. Check valves are a tempting
solution, but will likely stop working when chain goo gets in them.

Swee****er (Swan 57) had 3/8" holes, I think.

The good news is that it's much easier to put a restrictor in than to
bore them out....

Jim Woodward
www.mvFintry.com

Glenn Ashmore wrote in message news:Ltogb.52336$sp2.52271@lakeread04...

My chain locker is self draining. I was about to bore holes in the
corners for some 3/4" through hulls and then screw clam shells on the
outside when I ran across some really neat looking hooded drains on
ebay. These things are heavy 2" wide cast and polished stainless
clamshells that are threaded on 3/4" Maralon through hulls. No exposed
screws. Missed bidding on them but asked the seller Julia Farichild, if
she had any more. It took a couple of weeks to get them but they are
just what I needed and only $10 each. That is less than through hulls
and those cheap stamped metal clamshells.

Turns out her brother makes them for a couple of production builders and
never tried to sell them outside so she is feeling out the after market
on eBay. To spare here from the spammers, if you are interested email
me and I will send you here address.

No connection, just a real neat product found by serendipity.