dazed and confuzzed wrote:
Try www.loctite.com for more. Look at u50fl for a urethane.


D&C,
What's your opinion of 3M's 5200 for this? (I already have a tube of
it).

PhantMan

lid wrote:
dazed and confuzzed wrote:

Try www.loctite.com for more. Look at u50fl for a urethane.



D&C,
What's your opinion of 3M's 5200 for this? (I already have a tube of
it).

PhantMan

never tried it with aluminum. HOWEVER:

THe issue with aluminum is that the bond is usually to the oxide layer
that forms rather than to the aluminum itself. Some folks have had good
luck with epoxy and some form of "brillo" type pad or sandpaper to break
this layer so that the epoxy can bond to the aluminum. With a cast part,
you might get enough"tooth" to make 5200 work.

I dunno, never having tried to bond aluminum with 5200.

Just because it is a urethane doesn't mean it will bond well to aluminum.

I'd stay away from welding after bonding though.

I think that the advice to TIG the parts is probably the best for a long
term solution. You can sand or grind the seam flat, and with a little
paint, no one will know.

--
“No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy”
Sun Tzu

"dazed and confuzzed" wrote in message
news
THe issue with aluminum is that the bond is usually to the oxide layer
that forms rather than to the aluminum itself.

Indeed. And therefore an etching ALU primer must be used, prior to applying
epoxy. See www.westsystem.com for more info.

Meindert

THe issue with aluminum is that the bond is usually to the oxide layer
that forms rather than to the aluminum itself. Some folks have had good
luck with epoxy and some form of "brillo" type pad or sandpaper to break
this layer so that the epoxy can bond to the aluminum. With a cast part,
you might get enough"tooth" to make 5200 work.

If it breaks and he puts it back a few days later there won't be
an oxide layer yet.


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William R. Watt wrote:

THe issue with aluminum is that the bond is usually to the oxide layer
that forms rather than to the aluminum itself. Some folks have had good
luck with epoxy and some form of "brillo" type pad or sandpaper to break
this layer so that the epoxy can bond to the aluminum. With a cast part,
you might get enough"tooth" to make 5200 work.


If it breaks and he puts it back a few days later there won't be
an oxide layer yet.

THere will be an oxide layer thick enough to cause a poor bond in less
than a second after the part breaks again.




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William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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--
“No battle plan survives first contact with the enemy”
Sun Tzu

"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...

THe issue with aluminum is that the bond is usually to the oxide layer
that forms rather than to the aluminum itself. Some folks have had good
luck with epoxy and some form of "brillo" type pad or sandpaper to break
this layer so that the epoxy can bond to the aluminum. With a cast part,
you might get enough"tooth" to make 5200 work.

If it breaks and he puts it back a few days later there won't be
an oxide layer yet.

Aluminum oxide forms within minutes....

Meindert