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#1
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Hi,
I have been reading about a process of restoring rotten wood by soaking resin into the wood making it as good as new or better. Are there other options for replacing rotten ribs and frames other than traditional sawed or steam bent? (from the inside) Is there any truth to this process or just more smoke and mirrors? Thanks for the help on this question and the earlier one about boat repairs. Marshall |
#2
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MarshallE wrote:
Hi, I have been reading about a process of restoring rotten wood by soaking resin into the wood making it as good as new or better. Are there other options for replacing rotten ribs and frames other than traditional sawed or steam bent? (from the inside) Is there any truth to this process or just more smoke and mirrors? Thing to remember about wood: From compost ye come and to compost ye shall return. It's just a matter of time. Lew |
#3
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Unless it's encapsulated in amber.
Roger http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm "Lew Hodgett" wrote in message . net... MarshallE wrote: I have been reading about a process of restoring rotten wood by soaking resin into the wood making it as good as new or better. Are there other options for replacing rotten ribs and frames other than traditional sawed or steam bent? (from the inside) Is there any truth to this process or just more smoke and mirrors? Thing to remember about wood: From compost ye come and to compost ye shall return. It's just a matter of time. Lew |
#4
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There are some low viscosity epoxy products on the market that claim to
restore rotten wood. A few of them do restore the compression strength but do not help the bending strength. They are great for salvaging antique porch columns, thresholds and window sills but totally useless for boat repair where the stresses are not all in compression. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com "MarshallE" wrote in message om... Hi, I have been reading about a process of restoring rotten wood by soaking resin into the wood making it as good as new or better. Are there other options for replacing rotten ribs and frames other than traditional sawed or steam bent? (from the inside) Is there any truth to this process or just more smoke and mirrors? Thanks for the help on this question and the earlier one about boat repairs. Marshall |
#5
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On Sat, 8 Oct 2005 22:25:12 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore"
wrote: There are some low viscosity epoxy products on the market that claim to restore rotten wood. A few of them do restore the compression strength but do not help the bending strength. They are great for salvaging antique porch columns, thresholds and window sills but totally useless for boat repair where the stresses are not all in compression. yep. Let's put that solution in the smoke and mirrors column. |
#6
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"P.C. Ford" wrote in message
... On Sat, 8 Oct 2005 22:25:12 -0400, "Glenn Ashmore" wrote: There are some low viscosity epoxy products on the market that claim to restore rotten wood. A few of them do restore the compression strength but do not help the bending strength. They are great for salvaging antique porch columns, thresholds and window sills but totally useless for boat repair where the stresses are not all in compression. yep. Let's put that solution in the smoke and mirrors column. Hmmm.... I guess it must be different for working people. I've known several boat yard operators and pile drivers who use this method (for their own boats). Actually, the most common way is to use regular epoxy resin and thin it with acetone to the right consistency. I know of a couple rib repairs that are about 25 years old and still in place. Ed |
#7
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![]() "Ed Edelenbos" wrote Hmmm.... I guess it must be different for working people. I've known several boat yard operators and pile drivers who use this method (for their own boats). Actually, the most common way is to use regular epoxy resin and thin it with acetone to the right consistency. I know of a couple rib repairs that are about 25 years old and still in place. Well, I am making observations from experience. The family company manages a number (like over 1,000) older single family and duplex rentals, many of which have wood porches. We use a variety of epoxies to restore rotten porch columns where the local Historic Preservation committee insists that restoration match the original. We have found that it works fine for trim and column bases but will not hold up on railings, floor planks and other parts than may be loaded in bending. Epoxy stabilizes the wood and prevents further rotting but it has much lower tensile strength than the wood and is considerably less resiliant. Unless the part is reinforced with carefully aligned glass fiber it will not be up to the task. -- Glenn Ashmore I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com |
#8
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"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:KJ82f.215$Kp4.88@lakeread08... "Ed Edelenbos" wrote Hmmm.... I guess it must be different for working people. I've known several boat yard operators and pile drivers who use this method (for their own boats). Actually, the most common way is to use regular epoxy resin and thin it with acetone to the right consistency. I know of a couple rib repairs that are about 25 years old and still in place. Well, I am making observations from experience. The family company manages a number (like over 1,000) older single family and duplex rentals, many of which have wood porches. We use a variety of epoxies to restore rotten porch columns where the local Historic Preservation committee insists that restoration match the original. We have found that it works fine for trim and column bases but will not hold up on railings, floor planks and other parts than may be loaded in bending. Epoxy stabilizes the wood and prevents further rotting but it has much lower tensile strength than the wood and is considerably less resiliant. Unless the part is reinforced with carefully aligned glass fiber it will not be up to the task. -- Glenn Ashmore Our experiential data conflicts. In the end, we'll each go with what works for us... probably with equal confidence. Your last statement above is nonsense in the real world though. It looks nice in type. Ed |
#9
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"Ed Edelenbos" wrote
Hmmm.... I guess it must be different for working people. I've known several boat yard operators and pile drivers who use this method (for their own boats). Actually, the most common way is to use regular epoxy resin and thin it with acetone to the right consistency. I know of a couple rib repairs that are about 25 years old and still in place. It depends very much on what the original structure was like (ie massive workboat construction or slender scantling yacht type); and what stress it's put under. From an engineering standpoint, Glenn's comments are 100% accurate. Epoxy saturation restores much of the strength in compression of the original wood, some of the shear strangth, and very littl of the strength in tension (which is wood's strongest point). Glenn Ashmore wrote: Epoxy stabilizes the wood and prevents further rotting Note- in the original part... it does little or nothing to stop leaks and prevent further rot around the margins of the saturated area! .... but it has much lower tensile strength than the wood and is considerably less resiliant. Unless the part is reinforced with carefully aligned glass fiber it will not be up to the task. This correspnds exactly with my experience. I've seen mooring cleats pull up out of rot-doctored decks which were hard as a rock from the epoxy. When fresh out of the military and needing something to do, a friend and I "restored" (or butchered, depending on who you talk to) an old classic racing yacht. The planking was sound but the structure and deck was spongy. We built a 6 point cradle with shaped frames, epoxy saturated much of the interior structure, and laid up an internal truss mimicking the original ribs & floors with some diagonals added. The boat had no stiffness or strength in the hull until we added fiberglass cloth along the truss members. After that, it was very strong & we raced the heck out of it. A few classic boat purists were upset at what we'd done, two or three even threatened us. But the boat would have become a mulch pile and we did this work in about 3 months instead of seven years to rebuild it the "right" way. YMMV Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
#10
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On Sun, 9 Oct 2005 08:28:53 -0400, "Ed Edelenbos"
wrote: Hmmm.... I guess it must be different for working people. I've known several boat yard operators and pile drivers who use this method (for their own boats). Actually, the most common way is to use regular epoxy resin and thin it with acetone to the right consistency. I know of a couple rib repairs that are about 25 years old and still in place. What kind of boats are these and where are they used? The usual quick way to fix a broken rib is to 'sister' it. cheers, Pete. |