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jalborey
 
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Default ceramic zinc primers for metal boats

Sorry, I forget to say that the plating is for a 40' steel sailboat
Regards,
Jesús
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jalborey
 
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Default ceramic zinc primers for metal boats

After some inquiries, I've found that the ceramic component in the
primer is intended to facilitate the welding. But I still don't know
which is the optimal thickness; my fear is that should the plate be
primed with too thick a coat, the pattern left in the plates after
the steels's sandblasting may not be sufficient for the following
epoxy coats to "grip" on the steel.
Regards,
Jesús
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Default ceramic zinc primers for metal boats

On 2 Jul 2003 12:07:02 -0700, (jalborey) wrote:

After some inquiries, I've found that the ceramic component in the
primer is intended to facilitate the welding. But I still don't know
which is the optimal thickness; my fear is that should the plate be
primed with too thick a coat, the pattern left in the plates after
the steels's sandblasting may not be sufficient for the following
epoxy coats to "grip" on the steel.
Regards,
Jesús



I am not quite sure of what your up to here.

Primer is Primer - as in its there to save you doing it.
But I don't know the steps they followed - did they degrease, then do
an acid etch - prime and bake in on - Maybe the stuff is quite hot
shot especially as its zinc loaded.

You can buy steel with various pre coated surfaces depending on your
situation - Are you building this thing outdoors, is rust a problem?

But you have an alternative Paint system worked out, and your going
to sand blast it anyway ?

As for paint thickness, if its a hard paint - less is best unless its
a self cleaning paint, (sheds its outer surface), soft paints are
better a little thicker - they squash up more on impact -
The hard paints chip, especially on edges - and if has a hard surface
underneath - also it cracks as stars
It depends on the resins and the fillers, type amounts etc.
But it depends on the type of paint some more flexible than others.
Which depends on its working environment - its always a trade off -$$$
come into it too.

But it seems your only going to sandblast it off anyway.
While it may be easier to sandblast of the rust - if its only slight,
this gives it a key at the same time - But it seems you need to do
more home work on this.- They should have more specs on this as to
what they have done and the coatings you can go over it with.
You need to talk with the technical folk, not the sales staff - but
they should have hand outs.

Some steel comes coated with a sacrificial coating - but this one
seems to be a bit more elaborate.
You still left out to many points - you have to do more homework.


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