I bought a bottle for ship model building. Worthless. Even though the
seams are fit quite well, the high clamping pressure is not available.

After reading the directions carefully, I gave it to my son.

Can anyone suggest a task where it would be superior to other adhesives?

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
news:n7x_e.4091$tX3.3158@trndny06...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote:
DO NOT use luan or gorilla glue if you value your life in your
homebuilt boat.

Why anybody would wasre time with that garbage is beyond me.

It is even useless on land based projects.

Totally overpriced and under peckered any way you look at it.

Gorrilla Glue and other polyurethane glues work really well IF AND ONLY IF
you use them properly in an appropriate application. To get good results,
you need to have a very close fitting seam and strong enough clamping to
prevent the glue from expanding in the seam (expansion outside the seam is
normal and not a problem). They should NEVER be used to fill gaps! Edge
gluing luan panels in a S&G boat is NOT a good application for poly'
glues.

You can't blame the glue for the failures of the builder.

Goo'day,

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:16:26 GMT, "Roger Derby"
wrote:

I bought a bottle for ship model building. Worthless. Even though the
seams are fit quite well, the high clamping pressure is not available.

After reading the directions carefully, I gave it to my son.

What were the symptoms?
And did it work?
How long before it was effective?

g


Can anyone suggest a task where it would be superior to other adhesives?

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Brian Nystrom" wrote in message
news:n7x_e.4091$tX3.3158@trndny06...
Lew Hodgett wrote:
wrote:
DO NOT use luan or gorilla glue if you value your life in your
homebuilt boat.

Why anybody would wasre time with that garbage is beyond me.

It is even useless on land based projects.

Totally overpriced and under peckered any way you look at it.

Gorrilla Glue and other polyurethane glues work really well IF AND ONLY IF
you use them properly in an appropriate application. To get good results,
you need to have a very close fitting seam and strong enough clamping to
prevent the glue from expanding in the seam (expansion outside the seam is
normal and not a problem). They should NEVER be used to fill gaps! Edge
gluing luan panels in a S&G boat is NOT a good application for poly'
glues.

You can't blame the glue for the failures of the builder.

Regards,

Bruce Nichol
Talon Computer Services
ALBURY NSW Australia

http://www.taloncs.com.au

If it ain't broke, fix it until it is....

On Wed, 28 Sep 2005 19:16:26 GMT, "Roger Derby"
wrote:

I bought a bottle for ship model building. Worthless. Even though the
seams are fit quite well, the high clamping pressure is not available.

After reading the directions carefully, I gave it to my son.

Can anyone suggest a task where it would be superior to other adhesives?

Possibly butt blocks? clamping pressure is dependant on how much
stuff you can pile on top of it...




email: dave-afo at mchsi dot com

please respond in this NG so others
can share your wisdom as well!

Roger Derby wrote:
I bought a bottle for ship model building. Worthless. Even though the
seams are fit quite well, the high clamping pressure is not available.

After reading the directions carefully, I gave it to my son.

Can anyone suggest a task where it would be superior to other adhesives?

Roger

I've found that it works very well for laminating and edge gluing
tightly fitted seams. It's waterproof, so it works in applications where
moisture exposure is likely. While epoxy works well in similar
applications, poly's don't require mixing and thickening. They won't
damaged edged tools as you work the wood. Surface cleanup is easier,
since you can just scrape off poly' residue. It's also good for bonding
oak, which can be problematic with epoxy due to it's acidity. I use
poly's where these characteristics are important. A perfect example is
laminating the blanks and oak edges for kayak paddles that will be
carved primarily with hand tools.

The important thing with ANY adhesive is that you understand how it
works so you can use it correctly and for appropriate applications.
There is no "universal" glue that works well for everything.

I use it as a replacement for urea forlaydehyde (plastic resin) adhesive.
The polyurethane cures at 50 deg F instead of 70 deg F and the pieces can be
repositioned up to 45 minutes after application.

Like the other poster I've used it for laminating, ie gluing two pieces of
plywood together to make a thiker piece, using weights while curing.

I mostly use polyurethane mastic with screws in chine batten constuction
instead of the more costly taped seam construction with epoxy (although
David Bead at www.simplicityboats.com) has been experimenting with
polyuretyane taped seam construction. I use inexpensive zinc plated wood
screws which eliminates the need to buy clamps to hold
pieces togehter while curing. Sometimes I remove the screws after the glue
has set and fill the screw holes with drops of polyester resin. I like to
build small, cheap, lightweight, boats I can pickup and carry in one hand.

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Unfortunately, I just followed the directions on the bottle of Gorilla
Glue that really do not emphasize the required clamping. It may have
some applications but as it seems tricky to use, I will avoid it. I
lalso wonder if it is really "waterproof" since I seem to be seeing it
give up on prolonged saturation.

W. Watt:
Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.

wrote:
Unfortunately, I just followed the directions on the bottle of Gorilla
Glue that really do not emphasize the required clamping. It may have
some applications but as it seems tricky to use, I will avoid it.

It's not tricky, you just need to understand how to use it. I can
understand your confusion if the bottle doesn't have adequate
directions. IIRC, the Elmer's poly' glue I use does specify how to use
it properly.

I lalso wonder if it is really "waterproof" since I seem to be seeing it
give up on prolonged saturation.

I use it on kayak paddles and frames that get wet whenever they're used.
It hasn't shown any tendency to fail.

W. Watt:
Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.

That's standard procedure among people who use Lauan for boat building.
It's more or less a necessity, due to the prevalence of voids in the
material.

Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.

That's standard procedure among people who use Lauan for boat building.
It's more or less a necessity, due to the prevalence of voids in the
material.

That's nice to read. I first reported my discovery of the technique in
this here newsgroup back in late 1999 when building my first boat
(Dogskiff) out of the cheap plywood.



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Your use of a light to spot voids is interesting.

It works for thin plywood.
Someone repeated here what he read in a book of a boatbuilder noticing a void
from the way dew settled on the hull overnight.

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