From APS' web page http://www.apsltd.com/Tree/d3000/e1187.asp :

Polilite Mainsheet by Rooster Ropes UK
snip We recommend 46' for a Laser mainsheet, though between 42' and 48'
is the norm. Also available in a yellow 5.5mm for light air.

Purpose Length Dia. Line Type
Mainsheet 46' 5/16 Polilite Rooster Ropes
Vang, Cascade 5' 1/8 Excel D12
Vang, Cleated Line 14' 5/32" Swiftcord
Cunningham, Cascade 3' 1/8 Excel D12
Cunningham, Cleated Line 14' 5/32" Swiftcord
Outhaul, Stock Cascade 10' 1/8 Excel D12
Outhaul, Cleated Line 14' 5/32 Swiftcord
Outhaul, 6:1 Block/Mast Tie 2' 1/8 Excel D12
Traveler 11' 3/16 Tech 12
Rudder Downhaul 5' 5/32 Prestretch
Clew Tie 2' 3/16 AmSteel 12
Hiking Strap Line 4' 3/16 Prestretch
Centerboard Shock 10' 1/4 Shockcord
Hiking Strap Shock 2' 3/16 Shockcord
Mast Retainer 3' 1/8 Excel Racing
*************

Depending on your goals, you can probably substitute cheaper, fatter lines.
Personally, I like 3/8" minimum for the sheet. Your hands won't hurt as
much at the end of the day. Size your blocks and cleats appropriately.

APS seems to offer several different packages, but I'm too lazy to extract
the others.

I'd guess that the elongated mast step might be a gimmick to adjust the rake
for the minimum acceptable weather helm as a function of breeze and
sea-state.

Check out http://www.laserinternational.org/rules/ilcarule.htm for details.
They seem to be the source for APS' diagram of the Laser parts.

IMHO, the Laser seems to me to be a toy for erstwhile America's Cup racers.
All the go-fast gadgets that will decide the race if and only if you're one
of the top 1% of Laser sailors and very lucky. Remember, "All the boat
speed in the world won't beat dumb luck."

As I said, my total Laser experience was a short solo sail to pick up the
buoys/marks after a day of racing. This was ca. 1975, so I don't remember a
lot of details. Too many strings and gadgets. In the heat of battle, your
attention should not be in the boat and ... For a fun day on the water,
the Sunfish is both cheaper and better.

As to the lack of backing nuts, the handle on the bow of the Sunfish came
apart in my hand after thirty years. The pot metal disintegrated, but the
screws that held it on were still functional. Also still effective were the
two little screws holding the halyard turning block to the deck. (The "old
style" rudder mechanism was never right.)

Part of every boat building project should be the "Rigging Warrant" which
details the line sizes, blocks, cleats, etc. It's a good spreadsheet
project, particularly for those planning a junk rig. (The sheets go on
forever and have to be sized for sailing wing-and-wong.)

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

wrote in message
oups.com...
I do have an APS catalogue and have ordered parts from them but I
cannot find anyplace that specifies what size line to use for various
things. This Laser is so old that it is somewhat different from newer
ones as shown in the catalogues. For example, the new gudgeons did not
fit so I had to fill the old screw holes and make new ones, the deck
access plate was an entirely different size, etc.

There also seems to be a lot of slop in the mast step. Is this
correct? APS does have some material to take up some slop but the mast
step on this old boat actually seems to be slightly oval with long axis
along the boat axis so the mast can tilt forward or back. This could
radically affect sail trim.

What really strikes me is that my strengthened MiniCups are probably
better built than this old Laser. On the Laser, they simply use screws
into the underlying wood to hold fittings instead of using backing
nuts. How often do these fail?

A pin in the hole in the top of the rudder will keep the tiller in place.
A 1x1 hardwood tiller is fine. The pin is attached to the tiller with a
bit of string. I can't remember if I've seen aluminum box tillers on
lasers, something with a black finish is popping into memory fom the
1980's. If you live near the water a walkabout at a sailing club on the
day of the week the lasers race should prove enlightening.

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