With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

On Tue, 31 May 2005 11:56:09 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote:

With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

I am not aware of anything which accomplishes all of your objectives.

The only thing I will point out is that if your chain is galvanized steel,
your solution must be made of the same thing (unless it is not metal...).

Otherwise you will run into oxidation problems. For example, if you used a
hypothetical stainless steel carabiner to join the two segments, the
stainless steel (SS) would cause the galvanization to quickly be
exhausted, and you would end up with rust near the pristine SS.

Also, if you used two shackles, and seized the pins with SS or monel wire,
you would have the same problem. The shackles and nearby links would
quickly corrode, acting as anodes to the SS or monel.

This is why it is better to use cheap galvanized steel wire. The steel
will not rust until all of the galvanization nearby has worn off, and it
will not accelerate the wearing off of the galvanization on nearby links.

If you find a suitable solution, please post about it. I have hitherto
considered it impossible to join two segments of chain without sacrificing
1, 2, and/or 3.

--Mac

Mac wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 11:56:09 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote:


With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney


I am not aware of anything which accomplishes all of your objectives.

The only thing I will point out is that if your chain is galvanized steel,
your solution must be made of the same thing (unless it is not metal...).

Otherwise you will run into oxidation problems. For example, if you used a
hypothetical stainless steel carabiner to join the two segments, the
stainless steel (SS) would cause the galvanization to quickly be
exhausted, and you would end up with rust near the pristine SS.

Also, if you used two shackles, and seized the pins with SS or monel wire,
you would have the same problem. The shackles and nearby links would
quickly corrode, acting as anodes to the SS or monel.

This is why it is better to use cheap galvanized steel wire. The steel
will not rust until all of the galvanization nearby has worn off, and it
will not accelerate the wearing off of the galvanization on nearby links.

If you find a suitable solution, please post about it. I have hitherto
considered it impossible to join two segments of chain without sacrificing
1, 2, and/or 3.

--Mac

FOrgive my ignorance when asking this, but what is wrong with a standard
galvanized repair link? THe screw link items are as strong as the chain
tha they link (at least to about 85%) and can be purchased made from
galvanized steel. They are VERY close in dimension to the links tha they
are designed to repair.

While they are not as easy to remove as a carabiner, they are removable
with 2 wrenches.

so what am I missing??

--

My diesel truck has been modified to run on an environmentally friendly
mixture of clean burning Caribou fat and whale oil.

Looking for a good fight is not the same as finding one worth having...

I don't remember where I bought them, but my junk box includes several hot
dipped galvanized versions of
http://acmehardware.com/product_detail.aspx?sku=2313104

They're cheap enough for you to test against your winch capstan.

Roger

http://home.earthlink.net/~derbyrm

"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
news
With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

On Tue, 31 May 2005 16:22:08 -0500, dazed and confuzzed wrote:

Mac wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 11:56:09 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote:


With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney


I am not aware of anything which accomplishes all of your objectives.

The only thing I will point out is that if your chain is galvanized steel,
your solution must be made of the same thing (unless it is not metal...).

Otherwise you will run into oxidation problems. For example, if you used a
hypothetical stainless steel carabiner to join the two segments, the
stainless steel (SS) would cause the galvanization to quickly be
exhausted, and you would end up with rust near the pristine SS.

Also, if you used two shackles, and seized the pins with SS or monel wire,
you would have the same problem. The shackles and nearby links would
quickly corrode, acting as anodes to the SS or monel.

This is why it is better to use cheap galvanized steel wire. The steel
will not rust until all of the galvanization nearby has worn off, and it
will not accelerate the wearing off of the galvanization on nearby links.

If you find a suitable solution, please post about it. I have hitherto
considered it impossible to join two segments of chain without sacrificing
1, 2, and/or 3.

--Mac

FOrgive my ignorance when asking this, but what is wrong with a standard
galvanized repair link? THe screw link items are as strong as the chain
tha they link (at least to about 85%) and can be purchased made from
galvanized steel. They are VERY close in dimension to the links tha they
are designed to repair.

While they are not as easy to remove as a carabiner, they are removable
with 2 wrenches.

so what am I missing??

Well, I suppose the first requirement given by the OP, "proper strength,"
is open to some interpretation. I interpreted it to mean "same strength as
a regular link." That is why I rejected the repair link. If your
interpretation is "85% of the strength of a regular link," then I guess
you are right. We'll have to wait and see if the OP gives his/her
definition.

;-)

--Mac

I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material,
tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end of
it, grind the eye off the pin, smooth it up and "Bob's your uncle". I've
done this to anchor chains for 100-150 ton boats, 450 lb.+ anchors. Most
times too, we'd spot the end of the pin with a welder for absolute security.

Don
an old boat goat

"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
news
With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 15:45:34 +0000, Old Boat Goat wrote:

I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material,
tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end of
it, grind the eye off the pin, smooth it up and "Bob's your uncle". I've
done this to anchor chains for 100-150 ton boats, 450 lb.+ anchors. Most
times too, we'd spot the end of the pin with a welder for absolute security.

Don
an old boat goat

Don, does this pass through the gypsy OK?

Also, is this better (i.e., stronger) than the repair link suggestion
posted by dazed and confused?

Finally, can it be disconnected easily as per requirement number 3 of the
original poster? Certainly not if you hit it with a welder!

Personally, I think the original poster is looking for a magic solution
which doesn't exist. Probably the closest thing is to buy a bunch of
repair links, use them as needed, and cut them with bolt-cutters or a
disk grinder when the two chain segments need to be separated.

It may also be possible to use two over-size shackles to join two chain
segments without compromising strength, but I don't think this will pass
through the gypsy, and it may be hard to undo the shackles if they are
left underwater for a long time.

--Mac



"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
news
With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

What about cutting a regular link, joining the two lengths of chain,
and rewelding the cut link? Would the working of the link and the
rewelding weaken it too much? As for requirement 3, you could always
just cut it again.

Lee Huddleston
s/v Truelove

If the shackle is more or less matched to the chain I don't think it'll jam
in the gypsy. A shackle is definitely stronger than those repair links. I
know this doesn't satisfy #3 but I can't think of any reason to part an
anchor chain once you've made it up anyway. If it's an issue he should
probably use a "D" shackle with a wired pin

Don
an old boat goat

"Mac" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 04 Jun 2005 15:45:34 +0000, Old Boat Goat wrote:

I'd join the sections with a "D" shackle of the same size and material,
tighten the pin really well and peen the thread end or pin punch the end
of
it, grind the eye off the pin, smooth it up and "Bob's your uncle". I've
done this to anchor chains for 100-150 ton boats, 450 lb.+ anchors. Most
times too, we'd spot the end of the pin with a welder for absolute
security.

Don
an old boat goat

Don, does this pass through the gypsy OK?

Also, is this better (i.e., stronger) than the repair link suggestion
posted by dazed and confused?

Finally, can it be disconnected easily as per requirement number 3 of the
original poster? Certainly not if you hit it with a welder!

Personally, I think the original poster is looking for a magic solution
which doesn't exist. Probably the closest thing is to buy a bunch of
repair links, use them as needed, and cut them with bolt-cutters or a
disk grinder when the two chain segments need to be separated.

It may also be possible to use two over-size shackles to join two chain
segments without compromising strength, but I don't think this will pass
through the gypsy, and it may be hard to undo the shackles if they are
left underwater for a long time.

--Mac



"Courtney Thomas" wrote in message
news
With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney

The objective is for the connector to at least equal the strength of the
original chain's links while not interfering with the windlass and be
non-destructively disconnectable.

I neglected to include... preferably made of galvanized steel.

I realize it probably doesn't exist but I hoped someone would prove me
wrong, again :-)

Thanks to all,

Courtney




On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 01:32:45 +0000, Mac wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 16:22:08 -0500, dazed and confuzzed wrote:

Mac wrote:

On Tue, 31 May 2005 11:56:09 -0500, Courtney Thomas wrote:


With objectives of:

1-proper strength
2-avoiding interference with the windlass
3-segment disconnect when desired & avoiding compromising #s 1 & 2

what is the recommended technique for durably connecting two lengths of
same size anchor chain ?

Thank you,

Courtney


I am not aware of anything which accomplishes all of your objectives.

The only thing I will point out is that if your chain is galvanized steel,
your solution must be made of the same thing (unless it is not metal...).

Otherwise you will run into oxidation problems. For example, if you used a
hypothetical stainless steel carabiner to join the two segments, the
stainless steel (SS) would cause the galvanization to quickly be
exhausted, and you would end up with rust near the pristine SS.

Also, if you used two shackles, and seized the pins with SS or monel wire,
you would have the same problem. The shackles and nearby links would
quickly corrode, acting as anodes to the SS or monel.

This is why it is better to use cheap galvanized steel wire. The steel
will not rust until all of the galvanization nearby has worn off, and it
will not accelerate the wearing off of the galvanization on nearby links.

If you find a suitable solution, please post about it. I have hitherto
considered it impossible to join two segments of chain without sacrificing
1, 2, and/or 3.

--Mac

FOrgive my ignorance when asking this, but what is wrong with a standard
galvanized repair link? THe screw link items are as strong as the chain
tha they link (at least to about 85%) and can be purchased made from
galvanized steel. They are VERY close in dimension to the links tha they
are designed to repair.

While they are not as easy to remove as a carabiner, they are removable
with 2 wrenches.

so what am I missing??

Well, I suppose the first requirement given by the OP, "proper strength,"
is open to some interpretation. I interpreted it to mean "same strength as
a regular link." That is why I rejected the repair link. If your
interpretation is "85% of the strength of a regular link," then I guess
you are right. We'll have to wait and see if the OP gives his/her
definition.

;-)

--Mac