DSK wrote:
They can be removed. That's what the threads do.



Steven J. Ross wrote:

I believe he means from the keel itself.


So did I


Regards
Doug King


If the bolts were bent and cast into the molten keel, you will not
remove them. You should find out the breaking strength of the bolts
and then do not exceed this torque when trying to remove the nuts or
bolts. If you get up close to breaking torque for your bolts and
they don't come out and they don't break they are ok. Hell, If they
get up to 75% and don't give, I'd trust them.

If you break one, you've got to do them all.

If they need to be changed, you might cut them out with a torch or
saw, and re solder the keel top sections around the replacements,
which you will position with very carefully crafted jigs tack
soldered on, then cut off afterwards.

Should keep you busy for the weekend. Older bodymen and plumbers
have experience with lead filling, using a naptha blowtorch. Old
cast iron pipes were often caulked with molten lead.

Good luck

Terry K

On Thu, 26 May 2005 00:41:47 -0300, Terry Spragg
wrote:


If the bolts were bent and cast into the molten keel, you will not
remove them. You should find out the breaking strength of the bolts
and then do not exceed this torque when trying to remove the nuts or
bolts. If you get up close to breaking torque for your bolts and
they don't come out and they don't break they are ok. Hell, If they
get up to 75% and don't give, I'd trust them.
///
Terry K

This certainly sounds like uncommonly good advice.
Unfortunately, it is not practical - something of a day dream in fact.

Engineers find great difficulty in relating tightening torque on a
well-characterized fresh nut and bolt to its allowables or breaking
strength - but when it comes to a submerged, possibly corroded
fastener, you will be hard pressed to compute a torque value that is
within a factor of three of the actual value which snaps the shank.

Brian Whatcott Altus, OK

Brian Whatcott wrote:

On Thu, 26 May 2005 00:41:47 -0300, Terry Spragg
wrote:



If the bolts were bent and cast into the molten keel, you will not
remove them. You should find out the breaking strength of the bolts
and then do not exceed this torque when trying to remove the nuts or
bolts. If you get up close to breaking torque for your bolts and
they don't come out and they don't break they are ok. Hell, If they
get up to 75% and don't give, I'd trust them.

///

Terry K


This certainly sounds like uncommonly good advice.
Unfortunately, it is not practical - something of a day dream in fact.

Engineers find great difficulty in relating tightening torque on a
well-characterized fresh nut and bolt to its allowables or breaking
strength - but when it comes to a submerged, possibly corroded
fastener, you will be hard pressed to compute a torque value that is
within a factor of three of the actual value which snaps the shank.

Brian Whatcott Altus, OK

Well, let's presume a non-corroded bolt, then. If it breaks, it was
corroded. Surely, the fact that it is submerged doesn't matter much.

I know little about this but I do have a couple of suggestions.
Perhaps try to cut the lead out from around the top of one boltat the
joint to allow inspection. If it is good, just make a sheet metal dam
and pour in molten lead.
Maybe put in additional bolts. This involves drilling a large diameter
hole deep into the lead and an access hole from the side, putting in a
long threaded rod and putting two nuts with a large washer on the
threaded rod via the access hole. Then you fill the access hole with
some lead and epoxy and pour lead down around the threaded rod. I
believe I got this idea from Practical Sailor who discussed this same
topic once.
What could these green corrosion products possible be? Are the bolts
really SS? Check the tops of the bolts. If they are SS what could
this material be? Look into SS corrosion and then in the CRC Handbook
to see what the possible products look like.

Is it possible the builder put a copper sheet between the keel and hull
for some reason?

Your problem got me curious so I did a search on keel bolts and there
is a plethora of info on the subject of inspecting and replacing keel
bolts. Owning a 28' boat, I have never had this problem because my
ballast is internal to the hull of my S2. Considering the difficulties
with bolt-on keels, why do they seem favored over good internal
ballast?
Now I cant stop and will become obsessed with finding a way to inspect
keel bolts...

The ballast would be much safer if it were well up in the middle of the
boat.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Your problem got me curious so I did a search on keel bolts and there
is a plethora of info on the subject of inspecting and replacing keel
bolts. Owning a 28' boat, I have never had this problem because my
ballast is internal to the hull of my S2. Considering the difficulties
with bolt-on keels, why do they seem favored over good internal
ballast?
Now I cant stop and will become obsessed with finding a way to inspect
keel bolts...

If you wanted to keep the ballast really safe from sand bars and
reefs, you could just run it up the mast and hand it next to the sails
where it could be easily inspected from the deck!


BTW this IS sarcasm.
On Sat, 28 May 2005 00:59:18 -0400, "Jim Conlin"
wrote:

The ballast would be much safer if it were well up in the middle of the
boat.


wrote in message
roups.com...
Your problem got me curious so I did a search on keel bolts and there
is a plethora of info on the subject of inspecting and replacing keel
bolts. Owning a 28' boat, I have never had this problem because my
ballast is internal to the hull of my S2. Considering the difficulties
with bolt-on keels, why do they seem favored over good internal
ballast?
Now I cant stop and will become obsessed with finding a way to inspect
keel bolts...