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#1
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Brian wrote:
Well given that (surprisingly) there was no response I did a test. I joined some bits of scrap by filleting and taping with a single layer of my 2" tape. See the first two pics. Once cured for a day I tried to break it. See next pic. The wood delaminated and broke away from the join. With some considerable force I managed to break the join (see 4th pic). The join broke but a lot of wood was still attached to the tape (5th pic). I have no doubt that a second layer of tape on the outer seam would have made it stronger still since the tape ripping was obviously a major reason for the failure. It doesn't look like the width of the tape was an issue because the tape was still well attached away from the break. So its 2" tape with a staggered double layer on the outer seam. It looks like the seams are not be the weakest parts anyway. That is unless the test with torque stresses around the join is not representative of those experienced by the boat. However I would imaging that if first millimeter of tape pulls away from the join it is seriously stuffed as it would probably let water in. Hope someone finds this interesting or useful, Brian Another option you might want to explore it using bias cut tape that you make yourself. Bias cutting results in twice as many fibers crossing the joint. |
#2
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On Sat, 07 May 2005 10:41:00 GMT, Brian Nystrom
wrote: [another] Brian wrote: Well given that (surprisingly) there was no response I did a test. I joined some bits of scrap by filleting and taping with a single layer of my 2" tape. See the first two pics./// Hope someone finds this interesting or useful, Brian Another option you might want to explore it using bias cut tape that you make yourself. Bias cutting results in twice as many fibers crossing the joint. Until Brian came right out and said it, I was ignoring this salient X2 fact. Thanks! Brian W |
#3
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![]() On thing that I like about biax tape, or woven tape cut so that the yarn is +- 45 degrees, is that it follows curves much better. Consider something like a chine seam where it makes the turn to the bow. With biax (or the woven cut as stated), you generally don't have to cut darts in the glass to make it lay flat around the corners. AND you get more yarn across the seam. Brian D "Brian Whatcott" wrote in message ... On Sat, 07 May 2005 10:41:00 GMT, Brian Nystrom wrote: [another] Brian wrote: Well given that (surprisingly) there was no response I did a test. I joined some bits of scrap by filleting and taping with a single layer of my 2" tape. See the first two pics./// Hope someone finds this interesting or useful, Brian Another option you might want to explore it using bias cut tape that you make yourself. Bias cutting results in twice as many fibers crossing the joint. Until Brian came right out and said it, I was ignoring this salient X2 fact. Thanks! Brian W |
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