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Why drill thousands of holes in a perfectly good deck? There are adhesives
around that will allow you to just glue it in place. -- Keith __ "I'll always be Number 1 to myself." -Moses Malone "Roger Mcmillan" wrote in message ... I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Rogermac |
"Roger Mcmillan" wrote in message ... I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Rogermac You have a watertight deck now, don't drill through it, glue your deck down to your aluminum decks To glue teak to aluminum use an aluminum etch primer first, then either 3M's 5200 adhesive or similar Sikaflex adhesives. Sikaflex has a new caulking compound called 290 DC that are made for use with teak. Granted, a sprung teak deck takes a bit more ingenuity to lay when relying on weight to hold it down until set. Other option is to glue plywood onto your aluminum deck and then hold a sprung deck in place with a screw and washer in the caulking gap until set. Regards...Ken |
In article , Roger Mcmillan
wrote: I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Don't do it. You're going to take a waterproof deck made of the same material as the rest of the hull and either glue timber to it or drill *lots* of holes from underneath. The first method - glueing - is going to result in differential expansion of the timber & aluminium. Sooner or later you *will* get delamination, water ingress and probable poultice corrosion of the aluminium. The second method is just so idiotic that it doesn't bear contemplating. You'll still have movement of the timber vs metal but now you'll not need to wait till the al deck corrodes thru, you've provided thousands of holes to let water into the interior. It *will* leak, it's only a matter of time, and when it does finding the source of the leak will be damn near impossible, and basically unfixable. If you want a wooden deck, buy a boat designed for one. The proper way to do it for a metal hull is a bond beam with waterway around the hull topsides then a conversion to metal or wooden deck beams, a plywood sub deck sealed with a waterproof membrane and then a teak covering. It'll still leak, most likely, and it'll still be problematic WRT corrosion around the peerimeter where the ply laps the metal waterway strip, but at least you have a chance of keeping the leaks isolated & under control. When shopping for a boat, if I saw one with an abortion like you want to do, I'd either walk away instantly or discount the price to cover redoing the deck to designer spec. Keep the resale in mind. PDW |
"Roger Mcmillan" wrote in message ... I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Rogermac Hi Roger, I'm in Thailand and keep a boat in Phuket. Recently an aluminum 45 ft. boat was in the slip next to me and had a teak deck installed. The builder glued the teak down using one of the sikaflex adhesives -- I don't remember which one but apparently if you research the sika site they specify the use of one of their adhesives for teak deck installation. In addition they have specific instructions for using the black sealant that seals the seams. The Thai company that did the installation has done several in the marina with good results. In addition there was a super yacht arrived here from a re-fit done in Australia with some sort of problems with a teak deck installed there. The Australian company flew in a team to re-lay the deck and in talking with them it appears they they no longer use screws to install teak decks. Only adhesives. The thought of millions of screw holes in my brand new aluminum deck would send cold chills up and down my neck. Cheers, Bruce Bangkok, Thailand (brucatinetdorcodotth) |
OK, I get the message. Don't drill holes in the deck! The designer also
muttered something about "all that weight topside". Teak decks do look good though! Thanks for all the input. Cheers Rogermac "Peter Wiley" wrote in message . .. In article , Roger Mcmillan wrote: I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Don't do it. You're going to take a waterproof deck made of the same material as the rest of the hull and either glue timber to it or drill *lots* of holes from underneath. The first method - glueing - is going to result in differential expansion of the timber & aluminium. Sooner or later you *will* get delamination, water ingress and probable poultice corrosion of the aluminium. The second method is just so idiotic that it doesn't bear contemplating. You'll still have movement of the timber vs metal but now you'll not need to wait till the al deck corrodes thru, you've provided thousands of holes to let water into the interior. It *will* leak, it's only a matter of time, and when it does finding the source of the leak will be damn near impossible, and basically unfixable. If you want a wooden deck, buy a boat designed for one. The proper way to do it for a metal hull is a bond beam with waterway around the hull topsides then a conversion to metal or wooden deck beams, a plywood sub deck sealed with a waterproof membrane and then a teak covering. It'll still leak, most likely, and it'll still be problematic WRT corrosion around the peerimeter where the ply laps the metal waterway strip, but at least you have a chance of keeping the leaks isolated & under control. When shopping for a boat, if I saw one with an abortion like you want to do, I'd either walk away instantly or discount the price to cover redoing the deck to designer spec. Keep the resale in mind. PDW |
Roger Mcmillan wrote:
I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Why? If you want to make it more top-heavy, just add some lead weights to the mast. If you want to add a maintenance intensive feature with no practical value that will have to be replaced periodically, maybe you should consider getting a British sports car. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Roger Mcmillan wrote: I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Rogermac I wouldn't drill holes in your deck. I would glue marine grade ply wood to the deck and then screw the teak deck to the ply wood. This is the method used on large yachts. |
Capt John wrote:
Roger Mcmillan wrote: I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone snip I wouldn't drill holes in your deck. I would glue marine grade ply wood to the deck and then screw the teak deck to the ply wood. This is the method used on large yachts. Which is asking for trouble- sooner or later water will get in there, between the teak/ply or the ply/ aluminum, forget the teak decks- Pleeeease! Agreed they look great- but more trouble than they are worth. Bob Larder |
Hello Roger,
Treat your aluminum decks with an aluminum etching product and then adhere your teak decking down with either a SikaFlex or 3m marine adhesive. No need to drill through water tight decks. Sprung decks call for a more creative approach, either use clamps and weight or adhere the sprung deck onto plywood and then adhere to the aluminum. ...Ken "Roger Mcmillan" wrote in message ... I want to fit teak decks to my 37ft aluminum sailboat. Does anyone know whether I can fasten from below, to save all that tedious plug cutting, fitting and sanding? I thought that with aluminum it would be quite strong if I drilled from underneath - the fasteners should really only be required until the bedding compound sets. Any thoughts? Thanks Rogermac |
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