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#1
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This has been beaten to death here and elsewhere.
Google this newsgroup for 'scarph' or 'scarphing'. Also search the boatbuilding section of the WoodenBoat forum HERE There are many different ways to cut scarphs. For spar scarphs, jigs that create a ramp for a long handplane might be the easiest way. For spars, you want at least 12:1 taper. "Bert van den Berg" wrote in message ... I have seen wood scarfed for wood mast construction where there is a long joint made by overlapping two pieces of tapered wood. Can anyone tell me how you physically create the long tapered joint? I have been thinking of using a thicknesser with multi passes. Regards, Bert van den Berg |
#2
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I have built a jig with a 1:12 taper. A good stiff back plank and two
planed and sanded tapered ramps securely mounted to the back piece to make a valley for the thing to be scarfed. I then have a sled that I mount a router on. The scarfs are very accurate and can be repeated lots of times if necessary. So a few practices on scrap wood are easy to get the best technique before you attack your very expensive good wood. I have been very pleased with the results although it is a lot of effort to build the jig. I have used it a lot for various jobs including a rubbing strip involving 4 pieces of wood. Steve Jim Conlin wrote: This has been beaten to death here and elsewhere. Google this newsgroup for 'scarph' or 'scarphing'. Also search the boatbuilding section of the WoodenBoat forum HERE http://www.woodenboat-ubb.com/cgi-bin/UBB/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=search;search_forum=1 There are many different ways to cut scarphs. For spar scarphs, jigs that create a ramp for a long handplane might be the easiest way. For spars, you want at least 12:1 taper. "Bert van den Berg" wrote in message ... I have seen wood scarfed for wood mast construction where there is a long joint made by overlapping two pieces of tapered wood. Can anyone tell me how you physically create the long tapered joint? I have been thinking of using a thicknesser with multi passes. Regards, Bert van den Berg |
#3
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How do you scarf a piece of wood for a mast?
I have seen wood scarfed for wood mast construction where there is a long
joint made by overlapping two pieces of tapered wood. Can anyone tell me how you physically create the long tapered joint? I have been thinking of using a thicknesser with multi passes. Regards, Bert van den Berg |
#4
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Not a new subject, but ...
I've had very good luck making 8:1 scarfs by supporting the two pieces atop one another, staggered, and marked, and then planing (power and hand) for a plane surface. Check with a straight edge. The angle is not critical, but 8:1 is thought minimal by many. Example: to scarf two 2x4's (1.5" x 3.5"), mark back 12" (= 8 x 1.5) from the end of each and clamp them together, staggered, with a firm support under the lower one. If there's a "preferred surface" then flip one piece so the surfaces will match. Remove wood until there's a smooth ramp from the innermost mark (the one that's 24" from the end). Flip one piece so that the two ramps are face to face, jiggle around until a straightedge lies flat touching both surfaces, and scrawl some "witness" marks across the join. Ensure other alignments are correct. Protect your work surface with polyethylene. Coat both surfaces with unthickened epoxy to fill the end grain and avoid an epoxy-starved joint, then apply thickened epoxy (I like wood flour for thickening). Put the two pieces together so the witness marks line up, clamp lightly, and go away for a day or two. It doesn't hurt to heat the pieces of wood before applying the epoxy. As they cool, the epoxy is drawn into the wood. Otherwise the heat generated by the curing epoxy can cause air to bubble out of the wood disturbing the epoxy in spots. The heat makes the epoxy cure faster too. Roger http://derbyrm.mystarband.net/default.htm "Bert van den Berg" wrote in message ... I have seen wood scarfed for wood mast construction where there is a long joint made by overlapping two pieces of tapered wood. Can anyone tell me how you physically create the long tapered joint? I have been thinking of using a thicknesser with multi passes. Regards, Bert van den Berg |
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