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On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 06:54:08 +0800, OldNick
wrote: So, probably tape chines, inside and out, cover entire boat again with like a 4 ounce glass and then throw a second layer of 6oz, or a synthetic, on the bottom, and maybe wrap it a couple of inches up the sides. The second layer at 6 0z may be only 4? Watch the weight. You have to carry this thing. Looking at the canoe as a 2' 6" half tube 5 yards long, 10 oz of glass + resin = 28 lbs! Does the strength come from layers or weight? i.e.: would one layer of 12 oz be as good, better, or worse than two layers at 6 oz? or three layers of 4 oz, 6 layers of 2oz 24 layers of 1/2 oz....etc.... I know in plywood, the more layers withina givin thickness, the stronger the plywood. is it the same in fiber/epoxy? A lot depends on your usage. If you are goping to simply work open water with the occasional beach landing, then leave it at 1 layer. If you are going to be really bashing it about, go for 2 layers. To be honest, I am building this more because I saw the idea in a magazine and it peaked my intrest. I rarely canoe, and it will probably only see water a few times a year. In the off time it will be stored in a shed, out of direct sunlight. The one that interested me was Syntex, where they showed 2.8 oz cloth holding up better than 6oz of glass. But I bet it's $$$$. And they said it was a bitch to cut. I've heard that about kevlar as well... I don't have a building jig on this design. It is a simple canoe with only two "corners"--One chine in the middle of the side, and then a chine where it hits the bottom. Not sure if that would be considered one chine or two, but either way it is a simple design. Ok. Make sure the boat is very straight and true before you tape the outside seams particularly. That is probably my point. So noted. Thanks. dave email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com please respond in this NG so others can share your wisdom as well! |
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#2
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Dave Allyn ) writes: To be honest, I am building this more because I saw the idea in a magazine and it peaked my intrest. I rarely canoe, and it will probably only see water a few times a year. In the off time it will be stored in a shed, out of direct sunlight. You can save yourself a lot of time and mess by just taping the seams and painting or varnishing the hull. On my small plywood boats I don't even tape the seams, just round off smooth the outside of the edges with a sanding disk on my drill and then apply 2 layers of polyester resin along the seams to seal and protect the exposed plywood edge. You have to seal all the exposed plywood edges on the boat anyway to keep moisture from getting into the edges where the end grain of the wood is open. I mix a small amount (1 teaspoon) of resin at a time and spread it along the edge with a toothpick. To each teaspoon of polyester resin you have to add 2 drops of hardener. I touch up the paint each spring and sometimes mid season as well. (Photos of the boats on my website, see below.) I keep a boating log which shows I go out about 30 times a season, usually for an afternoon or evening. Also seal the gunnel, top and bottom, if the boat is ever going to be stored outside upside down, especially over the winter. Water will drain off the bottom of an overturned boat and collect along the gunwale where it can sit and rot. It will also hang and drip of the top of the gunwale of an overturned boat. I've had to repair delmainating and rotting plywood edges along a gunwale after storing a home built boat outside inverted over the winter. The keel, skids, and bottoms have never been a proboem stored upside down because water does not collect on them. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
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#3
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It's easier to get good wet out with layers of lighter cloth.
It could make a big difference depending on the skill of the builder. Does the strength come from layers or weight? i.e.: would one layer of 12 oz be as good, better, or worse than two layers at 6 oz? or three layers of 4 oz, 6 layers of 2oz 24 layers of 1/2 oz....etc.... I know in plywood, the more layers withina givin thickness, the stronger the plywood. is it the same in fiber/epoxy? A lot depends on your usage. If you are goping to simply work open water with the occasional beach landing, then leave it at 1 layer. If you are going to be really bashing it about, go for 2 layers. To be honest, I am building this more because I saw the idea in a magazine and it peaked my intrest. I rarely canoe, and it will probably only see water a few times a year. In the off time it will be stored in a shed, out of direct sunlight. The one that interested me was Syntex, where they showed 2.8 oz cloth holding up better than 6oz of glass. But I bet it's $$$$. And they said it was a bitch to cut. I've heard that about kevlar as well... I don't have a building jig on this design. It is a simple canoe with only two "corners"--One chine in the middle of the side, and then a chine where it hits the bottom. Not sure if that would be considered one chine or two, but either way it is a simple design. Ok. Make sure the boat is very straight and true before you tape the outside seams particularly. That is probably my point. So noted. Thanks. dave email: dallyn_spam at yahoo dot com please respond in this NG so others can share your wisdom as well! |
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#4
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Dave Allyn wrote:
On Sun, 20 Feb 2005 06:54:08 +0800, OldNick wrote: So, probably tape chines, inside and out, cover entire boat again with like a 4 ounce glass and then throw a second layer of 6oz, or a synthetic, on the bottom, and maybe wrap it a couple of inches up the sides. The second layer at 6 0z may be only 4? Watch the weight. You have to carry this thing. Looking at the canoe as a 2' 6" half tube 5 yards long, 10 oz of glass + resin = 28 lbs! Does the strength come from layers or weight? i.e.: would one layer of 12 oz be as good, better, or worse than two layers at 6 oz? or three layers of 4 oz, 6 layers of 2oz 24 layers of 1/2 oz....etc.... I know in plywood, the more layers withina givin thickness, the stronger the plywood. is it the same in fiber/epoxy? More layers of thinner cloth will be stronger and more flexible than a single layer of heavier cloth. |
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