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Dan Best February 18th 05 12:44 AM

Gordon,
Our display-to-scanner cable drops down about 18" before heading aft
through a hole in a cabinet. This plus a little slack in the cable
makes it so the cable is not unduly flexed or stressed when the arm is
swung in or out.

Hope this helps - Dan

Gordon Wedman wrote:

"rhys" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:35:24 GMT, Dan Best
wrote:


I have two singout arms in my hatchway. The raday display is on one and
a gps/fish finder is on the other. Unfortunately, there just wasn't
quite enough room to attach both devices to just one arm, my hatch just
isn't tall enough to have them one above the other. When both are
deployed so the helmsman can see them, it's a little inconvienient since
to in or out of the hatch, you have to either carefully step over them
or swing one of them out of the way. In reality, this is not a big deal
since the radar is only rarely used (but when we do use it, we are
REALLY glad we have it).


Exactly. Would love to see pictures and how you routed the power and
other cables to (presumably) the nav station/DC panel.

R.



I'm in the process of installing a JRC 2000 radar on my boat. The first
thing I did was install the display. I wanted to be able to see it/operate
it without going below. I'm using 2 horizontal RAM mount arms attached to
one of there vertical mount bases. This is bolted to a small cabinet on the
inside of the bulkhead. I can swing the display out so that I can see it
from the wheel but I don't think I'll be able to see fine detail (don't know
for sure as not fully operational yet). In this position the display blocks
access to below. I can, however swing it to the side so that I can go
forward to look at it and also go below easily. The cables are an issue
I've been wrestling with. The power and NMEA cables are not really a
problem as they are small diameter flexible wire. Easy to route. Its the
display-to-scanner cable that is the problem. Big cable and not that
flexible. I think I may have to disconnect it each time I swing the display
into its storage position inside the boat, against the cabinet. To route
this cable to the stern I'm thinking I will have to glue some white 1"
diameter water pipe to the overhead in the 1/4 berth and feed the cable
through that as I cannot get above the head liner and I need some play in
the cable. When not in use I will have a bracket on the cabinet where I can
store the cable. It will work but its not going to be as neat as I would
like.



Gordon Wedman February 18th 05 05:32 PM

Thanks Dan
If I have enough slack in my cable I may be able to work out something
similar. I was thinking if I made a coil or two and connected them with
small shock cord it would act somewhat like a spring as I swung the display
back and forth. I would probably need to suffer the expense of buying a 15m
cable to achieve this and then I'd have a 10m cable that would be difficult
to sell. Should know in a few weeks as I'm finally getting my radar pole
together.

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...
Gordon,
Our display-to-scanner cable drops down about 18" before heading aft
through a hole in a cabinet. This plus a little slack in the cable makes
it so the cable is not unduly flexed or stressed when the arm is swung in
or out.

Hope this helps - Dan

Gordon Wedman wrote:

"rhys" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:35:24 GMT, Dan Best
wrote:


I have two singout arms in my hatchway. The raday display is on one and
a gps/fish finder is on the other. Unfortunately, there just wasn't
quite enough room to attach both devices to just one arm, my hatch just
isn't tall enough to have them one above the other. When both are
deployed so the helmsman can see them, it's a little inconvienient since
to in or out of the hatch, you have to either carefully step over them
or swing one of them out of the way. In reality, this is not a big deal
since the radar is only rarely used (but when we do use it, we are
REALLY glad we have it).

Exactly. Would love to see pictures and how you routed the power and
other cables to (presumably) the nav station/DC panel.

R.



I'm in the process of installing a JRC 2000 radar on my boat. The first
thing I did was install the display. I wanted to be able to see
it/operate it without going below. I'm using 2 horizontal RAM mount arms
attached to one of there vertical mount bases. This is bolted to a small
cabinet on the inside of the bulkhead. I can swing the display out so
that I can see it from the wheel but I don't think I'll be able to see
fine detail (don't know for sure as not fully operational yet). In this
position the display blocks access to below. I can, however swing it to
the side so that I can go forward to look at it and also go below easily.
The cables are an issue I've been wrestling with. The power and NMEA
cables are not really a problem as they are small diameter flexible wire.
Easy to route. Its the display-to-scanner cable that is the problem.
Big cable and not that flexible. I think I may have to disconnect it
each time I swing the display into its storage position inside the boat,
against the cabinet. To route this cable to the stern I'm thinking I
will have to glue some white 1" diameter water pipe to the overhead in
the 1/4 berth and feed the cable through that as I cannot get above the
head liner and I need some play in the cable. When not in use I will
have a bracket on the cabinet where I can store the cable. It will work
but its not going to be as neat as I would like.




Gordon February 18th 05 09:11 PM

Pardon the interruption, but what are you doing for a radar pole?
Gordon
"Gordon Wedman" wrote in message
news:pEpRd.10814$iz2.7060@edtnps91...
Thanks Dan
If I have enough slack in my cable I may be able to work out something
similar. I was thinking if I made a coil or two and connected them with
small shock cord it would act somewhat like a spring as I swung the

display
back and forth. I would probably need to suffer the expense of buying a

15m
cable to achieve this and then I'd have a 10m cable that would be

difficult
to sell. Should know in a few weeks as I'm finally getting my radar pole
together.

"Dan Best" wrote in message
...
Gordon,
Our display-to-scanner cable drops down about 18" before heading aft
through a hole in a cabinet. This plus a little slack in the cable

makes
it so the cable is not unduly flexed or stressed when the arm is swung

in
or out.

Hope this helps - Dan

Gordon Wedman wrote:

"rhys" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:35:24 GMT, Dan Best
wrote:


I have two singout arms in my hatchway. The raday display is on one

and
a gps/fish finder is on the other. Unfortunately, there just wasn't
quite enough room to attach both devices to just one arm, my hatch

just
isn't tall enough to have them one above the other. When both are
deployed so the helmsman can see them, it's a little inconvienient

since
to in or out of the hatch, you have to either carefully step over them
or swing one of them out of the way. In reality, this is not a big

deal
since the radar is only rarely used (but when we do use it, we are
REALLY glad we have it).

Exactly. Would love to see pictures and how you routed the power and
other cables to (presumably) the nav station/DC panel.

R.


I'm in the process of installing a JRC 2000 radar on my boat. The

first
thing I did was install the display. I wanted to be able to see
it/operate it without going below. I'm using 2 horizontal RAM mount

arms
attached to one of there vertical mount bases. This is bolted to a

small
cabinet on the inside of the bulkhead. I can swing the display out so
that I can see it from the wheel but I don't think I'll be able to see
fine detail (don't know for sure as not fully operational yet). In

this
position the display blocks access to below. I can, however swing it

to
the side so that I can go forward to look at it and also go below

easily.
The cables are an issue I've been wrestling with. The power and NMEA
cables are not really a problem as they are small diameter flexible

wire.
Easy to route. Its the display-to-scanner cable that is the problem.
Big cable and not that flexible. I think I may have to disconnect it
each time I swing the display into its storage position inside the

boat,
against the cabinet. To route this cable to the stern I'm thinking I
will have to glue some white 1" diameter water pipe to the overhead in
the 1/4 berth and feed the cable through that as I cannot get above the
head liner and I need some play in the cable. When not in use I will
have a bracket on the cabinet where I can store the cable. It will

work
but its not going to be as neat as I would like.







Dan Best February 18th 05 11:09 PM

Ours is the Garhour pole with the outboard hoist and we are extremely
happy with it.

Fair winds - Dan

Gordon wrote:
Pardon the interruption, but what are you doing for a radar pole?
Gordon


rhys February 19th 05 09:07 PM

On Fri, 18 Feb 2005 00:36:12 GMT, Dan Best
wrote:

The gps antenna
cable goes down into the engine copartment, then aft under the floor of
the hold to the stern, then up throughthe deck at the base of the radar
tower.


Thanks for the descriptions. I always learn something when I ask stuff
like this, because we are forced by technology to rethink this stuff
every few years...even though a lot of the boats are still made for
'70s and '80s considerations...

R.


Gordon Wedman February 21st 05 08:01 PM


"Gordon" wrote in message
...
Pardon the interruption, but what are you doing for a radar pole?
Gordon


I'm building my own.
I found a 10 foot length of 2 1/2" diameter aluminum tube in a scrap yard
for $10. They sell scrap aluminum for $1 per pound. A new length would
have cost me $100 from a chandler plus shipping. 2 1/2 inch is not that
easy to find. I could have easily used 2 inch but a friend recommended 2
1/2 as he thought there would be less vibration.
Garhauer makes nice stainless support brackets for 2 or 2 1/2 inch pipe,
only $29 I think. I bought three of these and scrounged up some 1" OD
stainless tubing for arms. To connect the arms to the brackets on the pole
and stern railing I'm going to use the end caps they put on tubing for
dodgers. Just going to bolt the ends caps together.
Got to get a platform welded on the pole. I was originally going to buy a
Waltz RLS but discovered they had gone out of business. Questus was just
too much money for me so I was just about to order a Garhauer pole when I
came across a Waltz platform on eBay for $300. I'm going to bolt this onto
my welded-on platform. I should end up with a self levelling radar pole for
about $500US.



Gordon February 22nd 05 03:25 PM

How about PVC pipe or the like?
Gordon
wrote in message
...
On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 20:01:52 GMT, "Gordon Wedman" wrote:


"Gordon" wrote in message
. ..
Pardon the interruption, but what are you doing for a radar pole?
Gordon


I'm building my own.
I found a 10 foot length of 2 1/2" diameter aluminum tube in a scrap yard
for $10. They sell scrap aluminum for $1 per pound. A new length would
have cost me $100 from a chandler plus shipping.


Uh-oh... Not all aluminum is created equal. I hope what you bought is

suitable
for a marine environment.

BB





JR Gilbreath February 22nd 05 03:47 PM

Waltz is back in business with a new owner. You might be able to buy
the parts to complete the backstay installation combined with what you
bought on ebay. There are also good deals on the Questus if you search
long enough.
JR



wrote:
On Tue, 22 Feb 2005 15:25:18 GMT, "Gordon" wrote:


How about PVC pipe or the like?
Gordon



That would be even worse for this application. You are mounting a 20
pound weight on top of a 10 foot pole. That pole is mounted on a boat
that will be pitching, rolling and yawing every second it is in the
water. My advice is that this would be a good place to spend the
required, though painful, bucks to do things right.

BB


wrote in message
. ..

On Mon, 21 Feb 2005 20:01:52 GMT, "Gordon Wedman" wrote:


"Gordon" wrote in message
...

Pardon the interruption, but what are you doing for a radar pole?
Gordon

I'm building my own.
I found a 10 foot length of 2 1/2" diameter aluminum tube in a scrap yard
for $10. They sell scrap aluminum for $1 per pound. A new length would
have cost me $100 from a chandler plus shipping.

Uh-oh... Not all aluminum is created equal. I hope what you bought is


suitable

for a marine environment.

BB






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