I have a 43' endeavour with old leaky aluminum tanks that I need to replace.
Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not deteroiate from
the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with fiberglass water tanks?
Thanks in advance

Bruce on horizon wrote:
I have a 43' endeavour with old leaky aluminum tanks that I need to replace.
Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not deteroiate from
the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with fiberglass water tanks?
Thanks in advance



I was up against replacing the tanks in my trawler a couple of years
ago. I did a lot of research, and read all the discussions, but the
advice I decided to follow was given to me by an old guy who has been
replacing tanks for years.

His advise:
Modular aluminum fuel tanks, connected to together by a manifold. You
put the new ones in through the existing openings. That way you can
replace them if ever needed. I replaced two 150 gallon tanks with four
50 gallon tanks, and a lot of extra space. I can add more if I ever
need the capacity.

Have the tanks made by a company that has a track record of making
aluminum fuel tanks. If done properly, aluminum tanks seem to be the
best material, for a bunch of reasons.

Plastic for water tanks.

I followed his advice and am very happy with the results.

I also spent a lot less money that I hear others spend for the same project.

My opinion
Jim

How do you manifold 4 tanks in a small space?
Your pickups need to be on top of the tank.
Where is the manifold located?

"Jim" wrote in message
k.net...


Bruce on horizon wrote:
I have a 43' endeavour with old leaky aluminum tanks that I need to
replace. Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not
deteroiate from the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with
fiberglass water tanks?
Thanks in advance



I was up against replacing the tanks in my trawler a couple of years ago.
I did a lot of research, and read all the discussions, but the advice I
decided to follow was given to me by an old guy who has been replacing
tanks for years.

His advise:
Modular aluminum fuel tanks, connected to together by a manifold. You put
the new ones in through the existing openings. That way you can replace
them if ever needed. I replaced two 150 gallon tanks with four 50 gallon
tanks, and a lot of extra space. I can add more if I ever need the
capacity.

Have the tanks made by a company that has a track record of making
aluminum fuel tanks. If done properly, aluminum tanks seem to be the best
material, for a bunch of reasons.

Plastic for water tanks.

I followed his advice and am very happy with the results.

I also spent a lot less money that I hear others spend for the same
project.

My opinion
Jim

Fiberglass diesel tanks are not a good idea. It is extremely dificult to
eliminate 100% of the pinholes and diesel will migrate along the fibers much
more easily than water. I would get a quote for new aluminum tanks. I just
received mine from Ezell in Perry FL and could't be happier. Two 42 gallon
tanks with rather complex shapes to use up some awkward shaped space with
anti-syphon fittings and level transducers for $800 including shipping. The
construction was excellent. Just finished bead blasting and priming them so
I am intimately familiar with all the welds.
--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Bruce on horizon" wrote in message
...
I have a 43' endeavour with old leaky aluminum tanks that I need to
replace.
Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not deteroiate from
the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with fiberglass water tanks?
Thanks in advance

I built a 30 gallon gasoline tank that worked pretty well. I used polyester
and since then I have heard there is a preference for polyester over epoxy
or vice versa for diesel, but I can't remember which is supposed to work
better for diesel.
I, like Glenn, had some tanks built by EZell. Ezell does a really nice job.
There is also RDS also in Perry FL. ( also a good tank builder)
But if you just want to try a frp tank, build a female mold that will define
the bottom and sides .This can be MDF. Be sure to have big fillets in all
corners because that is where you can be prone to have lamination and
leakage problems.Build the top, a flat sheet, on a release surface. Then fit
the top to the molded part. Also think resin rich, you are not building for
maximum laminate strength but for leakage. Several coats of pure resin on
the inside before you close it up. It is the resin that provides the barrier
for leakage, not the glass.
Anyway it might be a fun thing to try, but.....
--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel

"Bruce on horizon" writes:

Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not deteroiate from
the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with fiberglass water tanks?

SFWIW.

I have built all my tanks, diesel, potable water and hydraulic oil the same
way.

Epoxy and knitted glass followed by two (2) coats of epoxy tank resin. (A
white coat followed by a blue coat).

Waste tank was done the same way, only coal tar based tank resin was used to
coat the interior.

YMMV.

Lew

"Lew Hodgett" wrote in message ink.net...
"Bruce on horizon" writes:

Is it possible to build a fuel tank (diesel) that will not deteroiate from
the fuel. Also water...is there a problem with fiberglass water tanks?


I built two nine-gallon gasoline tanks using plywood boxes made
in the right shape, and fiberglassed (with polyester resin) the
insides. The glass/resin came up over all the walls and over the top
lip, which was 3/4" x 3/4" spruce all the way around. The top was
another piece of ply with the inlet, vent and outlet fittings brazed
to steel plates and screwed to it, coated with the glass on the entire
inside surface (including over the steel fitting plates) and laid onto
the still-wet stuff on the lip and screwed down. Never leaked a drop.
Strong, too. This was glass mat I used; cheaper and forms around
corners better. No need for cloth if the wood takes the abuse.

Dan