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#12
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Jacques wrote:
Yes but gelcoat will not work, it has no wax. What you need is top coat. Gelcoat is just polyester resin. There's more than one type of gelcoat, specifically there's "laminating" and "finish" gelcoat. The names accurately describe their intended function. Laminating gelcoat is used in the mold during the layup of a hull. Finish gelcoat is used primarily for exterior repairs and cures properly without needing to be sealed off from the air. |
#13
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MMC wrote:
Jacques, My idea is to use West Epoxy with the pigments to fill small chips and cracks. That will certainly work, but depending on what epoxy you use, the resulting patch will be somewhat yellow compared to white gelcoat. You can use white "finish" gelcoat instead, to get a better match. Here's a link to it: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...oductId=125479 |
#14
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MMC wrote:
Ah! I see that fiberglasssupply sells epoxy pigments! Thanks for the link! And good info on the "tile board". MMC Pigments for polyester resin work fine with epoxy, too, and are generally much less expensive. |
#15
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Brian Nystrom ) writes: MMC wrote: Ah! I see that fiberglasssupply sells epoxy pigments! Thanks for the link! And good info on the "tile board". MMC Pigments for polyester resin work fine with epoxy, too, and are generally much less expensive. I have some polyester pigmemt the consistency of thick syrup. I assume it is titanium oxide powder suspended in polyester resin and would not be suitable for use with epoxy. Does that sound right? If so you'd have to be careful what kind of pigment to use. If you buy powdered pigment that should be okay for both? -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#16
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On Sun, 14 Nov 2004 15:36:46 -0800, lupi wrote:
I've used Mellomene (melomean? sorry, I canna spell). It's a slick sort of vynal coated pressboard, fairly expensive, fragile and heavy to move, used in interior home construction. ==================================== The material you are referring to is "melamine" also known as MDF (medium density fiberboard). It is readily available at Home Depot in the US at reasonable prices. It is very stiff and will stay flat if properly supported. |
#17
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On 14-Nov-2004, Wayne.B wrote:
The material you are referring to is "melamine" also known as MDF (medium density fiberboard). Melamine and MDF at two completely different things. However, some MDF is covered with melamine. Melamine is a plastic that is used as a coating on shelving, cabinets and so on. Mike |
#18
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to make large smooth fibreglass panels for a boat designed for plywood construction, boatbuilder TF Jones made the fibreglass panels on sheets of formica, the stuff used for countertops. fibreglass panels can be made thin and flexible to bend into a curved shape, then stiffened by adding more fibreglass. plastic is a good parting barrier for curing resins. I've put plastic garbage bags under fibreglass and other resins and adhesives to keep them from sticking to the work surface. for small jobs you could tape or staple plastic to any smooth surface, eg plywood. to avoid wrinkles use thicker plastic. If there is any printing on the plastic it will stick to the cured resin so put the printed side down. -- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community network homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm warning: non-FreeNet email must have "notspam" in subject or it's returned |
#19
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William R. Watt wrote:
Brian Nystrom ) writes: MMC wrote: Ah! I see that fiberglasssupply sells epoxy pigments! Thanks for the link! And good info on the "tile board". MMC Pigments for polyester resin work fine with epoxy, too, and are generally much less expensive. I have some polyester pigmemt the consistency of thick syrup. Same here. I assume it is titanium oxide powder suspended in polyester resin and would not be suitable for use with epoxy. Does that sound right? The stuff I have does not have the strong styrene smell of polyester resin. It smells sweet, somewhat similar to latex paint. It was a fraction of the price of the West Systems tint I bought, which smells EXACTLY the same. AFAIK, these are universal pigments and work fine with either type of resin (I'd bet they're exactly the same product). Although I haven't tried it, I suspect they'll work just fine in paints and varnishes, too. If so you'd have to be careful what kind of pigment to use. It doesn't seem that way, though perhaps there are pigments with polyester or epoxy bases that would be incompatible with the other. I'd say "let your nose be your guide". If you buy powdered pigment that should be okay for both? Sure. They're just harder to find and I would think more hassle to mix. I have enough trouble keeping Cabosil in the mixing pot, let alone adding powdered pigment to the mix. ;-) |
#20
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Melanie wrote:
My experience with fiberglass is only in basic boat repair. I am a student of architecture, and I am looking to experiment with the material's translucent properties for my thesis project. I would like to make sheets of fiberglass. So I have 2 questions. Firstly, onto which material could I place the fiberglass (with resin mixture) to dry without it bonding to it? I've made panels by placing polyethylene sheet over a flat surface, laying up the panel, covering with another layer of polyethylene, then setting plywood and weights on top. Simple, cheap and effective. |
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