Perfect cruising bermuda dinghy

I put this as what I believe best for a 18' cruising dinghy, main 10,5m2
(unstayed mast)... which is probably wrong, but maybe not all.! ;o)

# Loose foot
# Full battens
# 2 reefing lines (which type?)
# Boltrope
# Foot slightly raising (5-15deg)
# Telltales
# Crosscut Polyester (weight?)
# Does weave manufacturer matter?

# Jib around 35% of SA (reasonable big, reasonable reef step)
# Same weave?

Anything else that cannot be missing on a modern (?) dinghy rig?
Further hints?


Morgan O.

Morgan Ohlson ) writes:

Anything else that cannot be missing on a modern (?) dinghy rig?

some things to consider.....

preventer? (eg., boom vang)

how would the main be sheeted?
center sheeting or transom?
would it need a traveller?

all the jibs I've seen have had adjustable fairleads.
some way of tensioning the jib luff so it doesn't sag.

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On 23 Oct 2004 21:30:00 GMT, William R. Watt wrote:

Morgan Ohlson ) writes:

Anything else that cannot be missing on a modern (?) dinghy rig?

some things to consider.....

preventer? (eg., boom vang)

how would the main be sheeted?
center sheeting or transom?
would it need a traveller?

all the jibs I've seen have had adjustable fairleads.
some way of tensioning the jib luff so it doesn't sag.

Is the vang mounted further out on the boom if transom sheeting is used?

What about kick rod?

Center or transom sheeting is what I'm just conserning my brain with. It
looks as there can be a problem to fit in a center traveler properly without
a bulkhead to build it on.
....but on the other hand that bulkhead may be needed.

Isn't a traveller allways good to have to gain rig controll?

Morgan O.

Morgan says:

Center or transom sheeting is what I'm just conserning my brain with.

If you have a loose-footed main, then I would seriously recommend end-boom
(transom) sheeting, or the bending moments in the boom will be extremely high.

Steve

Stephen Baker ) writes:
Morgan says:

Center or transom sheeting is what I'm just conserning my brain with.

If you have a loose-footed main, then I would seriously recommend end-boom
(transom) sheeting, or the bending moments in the boom will be extremely high.

you can run the sheet from the boom end to a block in the middle of the
boom. that keeps it up out of the way and drops it pretty well into a
block mounted, say, on the rear of the centreboard trunk. with a 70 sq ft
main sail you'll need the leverage (mechanical advantage) of a multi part
mainsheet fed through blocks. if you are going to be cruising small lakes
and rivers with shifty winds you won't be able to cleat the mainsheet.
you'll have to hold it in your hand all the time. you probably won't cleat
the mainsheet on an 18 ft dingy anyway. too light and responsive. a rachet
block is quite common and would take some strain off the arm holding the
mainsheet. something to consider later if you find the strain on the arm
too uncomfortable.

the centreboard has to be top braced against lateral (sideway) stresses,
sometimes done with a seat, sometimes with a simple thwart, on which a
traveller and compass can be mounted. I seem to recall the back end of dingy
centreboard trunks being braced by a metal mainsheet traveller alone. the
traveller mostly just helps keep the sail flat when close hauled but also
helps as a preventer. it's not essential for dingy cruising. you can see
these things on photos and diagrams of sailing dingys like the Wayfarer.
I don't know if there are any formulae covering these things, except of
course for the mechanical advantage of the main sheet blocks. It's mostly
trial and error and tales told by old dingy racers.

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On 24 Oct 2004 14:06:56 GMT, William R. Watt wrote:

Stephen Baker ) writes:
Morgan says:

Center or transom sheeting is what I'm just conserning my brain with.

If you have a loose-footed main, then I would seriously recommend end-boom
(transom) sheeting, or the bending moments in the boom will be extremely high.

you can run the sheet from the boom end to a block in the middle of the
boom. that keeps it up out of the way and drops it pretty well into a
block mounted, say, on the rear of the centreboard trunk. with a 70 sq ft
main sail you'll need the leverage (mechanical advantage) of a multi part
mainsheet fed through blocks. if you are going to be cruising small lakes
and rivers with shifty winds you won't be able to cleat the mainsheet.
you'll have to hold it in your hand all the time. you probably won't cleat
the mainsheet on an 18 ft dingy anyway. too light and responsive. a rachet
block is quite common and would take some strain off the arm holding the
mainsheet. something to consider later if you find the strain on the arm
too uncomfortable.

the centreboard has to be top braced against lateral (sideway) stresses,
sometimes done with a seat, sometimes with a simple thwart, on which a
traveller and compass can be mounted. I seem to recall the back end of dingy
centreboard trunks being braced by a metal mainsheet traveller alone. the
traveller mostly just helps keep the sail flat when close hauled but also
helps as a preventer. it's not essential for dingy cruising. you can see
these things on photos and diagrams of sailing dingys like the Wayfarer.
I don't know if there are any formulae covering these things, except of
course for the mechanical advantage of the main sheet blocks. It's mostly
trial and error and tales told by old dingy racers.


It's quite common with slightly bent travelers (low at ends)... more seldom
straight. (correct?). What is the main benefit?

To get a transom sheeting an extended boom may be necessary. Does that have
any complications in other ways?

Morgan O.