Hmm. I do not have them but will look into it.
"Garland Gray II" wrote in message
news:FG40d.17715$aW5.16339@fed1read07...
Do you have a galvanic isolator in your electrical system? After I
installed
one, the zincs on my saildrives were eroded much less. So much less that I
no longer use guppies.

"Bilbo Baggins" Bilbo wrote in message
...
We have a diver check our zincs and bottom every 90 days. We are in a
"hot"
marina with a lot of stink potters around which means the zincs can be
AWOL
in short time. A diver, $50 and a zinc or tow and you'll be fine.


"Jonathan" wrote in message
...
Because of a miscommunication with the yard, my Alberg 35 was
relaunched
after a haulout for bottom painting without replacing the zinc. I had
taken the old one off (not much left).

Years ago I had a friend drop a fish shaped zinc overboard every time
he
came back to his slip. It was supported on a line for the weight, and
a
wire from the zinc to....actually I don't remember what it was to, but
I
think it was the green wire grounding system on the boat.

If I adopt a similar plan, attaching a wire to the zinc that did not
get
mounted and attaching the other end to engine block or shaft, will
this
suffice sufficiently until my next haul out? which will not be until
2006 probably....

I am concerned as the boat had been in since August 2002, and the zinc
on it was almost completely gone. The boat spends May thru October on
a
mooring then November through the end of April at the dock for the
winter.

Thanks,

Jonathan
--
I am building a Dudley Dix, Argie 10, for my daughter. Check it out:
http://home.comcast.net/~jonsailr

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 12:58:19 -0700, Brian Combs wrote:

Hi,

As a diver who replaces zincs and cleans bottoms among other jobs I will
tell you to get someone to dive your boat and put the zincs on the shaft and
any other places that are at risk. Too often I see boats that have not been
protected and it gets rather costly to repair the damage.

Diving in warm clear water must be nice, I haven't done it in years.

Brian


Me neither. ;-(

--Mac

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 08:06:35 +0200, Meindert Sprang wrote:

"Mac" wrote in message
news

I believe that the effectiveness of a zinc diminishes somewhat as distance
from the protected metal increases. So you probably want to hang the zinc
pretty close to the prop. I'd use galvanized steel wire to suspend the
zinc.

Uhm, what do you think would happen to the zinc coating on the gavanized
wire?

Meindert

Well, as far as the water is concerned, everything in this system looks
like zinc. So in the absence of stray electric fields, there isn't any
strong reason for the galvanization (or anodes) to wear away too fast.

If the electric fields in the water (or time) cause the galvanization
to wear away, then the anode will protect the steel until the anode is
gone. Then the steel will rust. This will be obvious upon inspection, and
can be dealt with by replacing the cheap galvanized wire and adding
another anode.

I specified galvanized wire, as opposed to copper or stainless wire,
because the galvanized wire won't cause the anode to disappear as quickly
as those other metals will. Aluminum wire might work OK, too. But once the
anode is gone, the aluminum might disappear rapidly, and the oxidation
might not be as obvious as rust on steel. I've never used aluminum wire
for anything, so I don't really know what would happen.

Anyway, for similar reasons, never use stainless seizing wire on your
galvanized anchor shackle. Use cheap galvanized wire. The stainless (or
monel) wire some people use actually causes the rode to function as an
anode. Eventually the links near the shackle will rust, long before the
rode as a whole needs regalvanization.

--Mac

On Thu, 09 Sep 2004 17:30:38 +0930, BruceM wrote:

Several comments here.
I don't recall him saying he had it on his prop?
Might be on his skeg?
Might just be on his trim tabs?

You're right. I'm jumping to conclusions.

Regardless, it's foolish to not get it on real quick.

Agreed.

Good point Meindert but cray fishermen here in Ozzieland use galv wire
to tie anodes on the pots which are made out of steel & stainless mesh.
Everybit comes out sparkling until the anode is gone. BruceM


[Meindert's message snipped]

Yeah, the wire doesn't need 100% zinc cover. As long as there is zinc
anywhere near it (and electrically connected), the wire will be protected.
And I imagine that once the anode goes, the regular steel will serve as an
anode to the stainless.

--Mac