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Jim Conlin
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull

There's one on Glenn Ashmore's site
No report on how it worked.

Jim



Jacques wrote:

I use that same low tech approach since years: wet the fabric on a
large piece of cardboard, roll it and unroll on the hull BUT, some
time ago, I saw pictures of a home made impregnator on the web and
lost the bookmark.
Does anybody know about that? I would like to try.

Jacques Mertens
http://bateau.com

"Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ...
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message

I used the Tom Sawyer approach and got a bunch of volunteers. One
person mixing resin, two people wetting out and 3 people laying. We did
two layers of DB170 biax and one 6 oz. woven on my 45' hull in 6 hours.
After wetting out on a table made from a couple of sheets of melamine
we rolled the biax on 2" PVC pipe to carry it to the boat. The only
significant increase in cost was a couple of cases of beer when we
finished.


Glenn,

Did you ever get your home made fabric impregnator to work?

About how many yards / square meter of fabric did each 6 hour session manage
to lay up?

And how much experience did your wetting out team have?

Thanks


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Lew Hodgett
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull


"Ron White" writes:

I am helping a friend who is building a 35' motor trawler. It is planked
with marine ply and epoxy glued and it soon need fairing. Are there any
good commercially available epoxy fairing compounds in 5 gallon units?


You want to do the job cheap or do it right?

If it were my project, I'd start buying epoxy in 500 lb drums, hardner in 40
lb pails and Dic-A-Perl microballoons in 30 lb bags.

Use DB170, 17 oz double bias glass, comes in approximately 220 lb rolls.

The composites industry is going bonkers right now.

Both glass and foam are on allocation.

Don't even think about carbon fiber.

There is an outfit making 30,000 carbon fiber hockey sticks and they can't
keep up with demand.

Expect 8 wks for a roll of DB170.

If you can use vendors located in SoCal, contact me off list.

BTW, glass first, fairing last.

HTH


--
Lew

S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures


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Jacques
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull

I am suprised that a good designer leaves out fiberglass
specifications on plans for a 35' trawler! Are you certain it's not
somewhere in the notes?
Anyway, here is what we would use:
- fiberglass covering on plywood, if only for protection and
resistance to abrasion: 9 oz. woven but, you could use 12 oz. biaxial
45/45 no matt and add strength to those panels. The biaxial fiber
orientation at 45/45 will complement the plywood fibers at 0-90. It
cost only a tiny little bit more, less than $ 50.00 extra for the
whole boat.
- fairing epoxy: it can not be done with Bondo type stuff. We sell a
unique product from System Three named QuickFair. It is an epoxy
fairing compound that is easy to apply, cures fast and is easy to sand
and it is not soft like WEST Microlight. See a complete description
he
http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/pr...?id=17&Fairing
You can ask questions about application etc. on our message baord and
there, you will also read opinions and tips about fairing on epoxy:
http://bateau2.com/


Jacques from bateau.com
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Ron White
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull

Oops, I may have stepped in it again. I think I should have said it is my
understanding that he made several suggested lay-ups leaving the final
choice to my friend, the builder. I thank you and the other's who have
offered advice.
The hull on this boat is three layers of 1/2" ply on the bottoms and two
layers of 1/2" on the sides. It seems quite stout so the glass is just a
covering, I guess.
I have never done any wet lay-ups like Glenn sugested so the idea of
handling wetted out cloth with it's tendancy to become distorted kind of
worries me just having a small lay-up crew of one or two people. I would
have thought biaxial would be easier to handle than cloth due to it's
stiching. I used all biaxial on my boat but it was stiched to mat and laid
down dry, very easy to handle.

--
Ron White
Boat building web address is
www.concentric.net/~knotreel


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Jacques
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull

"Ron White" wrote in message ...
Oops, I may have stepped in it again. I think I should have said it is my
understanding that he made several suggested lay-ups leaving the final
choice to my friend, the builder. I thank you and the other's who have
offered advice.
The hull on this boat is three layers of 1/2" ply on the bottoms and two
layers of 1/2" on the sides. It seems quite stout so the glass is just a
covering, I guess.
I have never done any wet lay-ups like Glenn sugested so the idea of
handling wetted out cloth with it's tendancy to become distorted kind of
worries me just having a small lay-up crew of one or two people. I would
have thought biaxial would be easier to handle than cloth due to it's
stiching. I used all biaxial on my boat but it was stiched to mat and laid
down dry, very easy to handle.


With that kind of planking, I understand the designer's response. All
what he needs is some protection against abrasion etc. - 9 oz. woven
would be great. Pick a fine weave: as Joel writes, it will require
less fairing and sanding.

Jacques
http://bateau.com


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Joel
 
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Default Epoxy fairing compound and glassing hull

"Ron White" wrote in message ...
I am helping a friend who is building a 35' motor trawler. It is planked
with marine ply and epoxy glued and it soon need fairing. Are there any
good commercially available epoxy fairing compounds in 5 gallon units? He
is debating weather to fair the hull after the glass is laid or more likely
fairing before and lightly fairing after the glassing.
On the subject of glassing, the designer, Carl Stambaugh, recommended
biaxial tape at the corners and has left skin up to the builder and has
offered several suggestions. I am thinking that maybe a biaxial covering
would be easier for a small crew (2) to handle as compared to woven cloth?
The boat has a 2' wide box keel that among other things, will take most of
the grounding abuse. He is debating on the glass skin with a Kevlar overlay
or just add some roving to the bottom of the box for protection. Any
suggestions would be welcome.



----------------------

For fairing that much, I would mix my own compound using microballoons
and epoxy. It will be a lot cheaper than the System three quick fair
(which is good stuff, we sell it too).

While the biax will be stronger, it will require more fairing. If you
need large quantities of epoxy and glass, I can give you a deal on a
"kit".

Joel
Boatbuildercentral.com
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