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#1
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There's one on Glenn Ashmore's site
No report on how it worked. Jim Jacques wrote: I use that same low tech approach since years: wet the fabric on a large piece of cardboard, roll it and unroll on the hull BUT, some time ago, I saw pictures of a home made impregnator on the web and lost the bookmark. Does anybody know about that? I would like to try. Jacques Mertens http://bateau.com "Evan Gatehouse" wrote in message ... "Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message I used the Tom Sawyer approach and got a bunch of volunteers. One person mixing resin, two people wetting out and 3 people laying. We did two layers of DB170 biax and one 6 oz. woven on my 45' hull in 6 hours. After wetting out on a table made from a couple of sheets of melamine we rolled the biax on 2" PVC pipe to carry it to the boat. The only significant increase in cost was a couple of cases of beer when we finished. Glenn, Did you ever get your home made fabric impregnator to work? About how many yards / square meter of fabric did each 6 hour session manage to lay up? And how much experience did your wetting out team have? Thanks |
#2
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![]() "Ron White" writes: I am helping a friend who is building a 35' motor trawler. It is planked with marine ply and epoxy glued and it soon need fairing. Are there any good commercially available epoxy fairing compounds in 5 gallon units? You want to do the job cheap or do it right? If it were my project, I'd start buying epoxy in 500 lb drums, hardner in 40 lb pails and Dic-A-Perl microballoons in 30 lb bags. Use DB170, 17 oz double bias glass, comes in approximately 220 lb rolls. The composites industry is going bonkers right now. Both glass and foam are on allocation. Don't even think about carbon fiber. There is an outfit making 30,000 carbon fiber hockey sticks and they can't keep up with demand. Expect 8 wks for a roll of DB170. If you can use vendors located in SoCal, contact me off list. BTW, glass first, fairing last. HTH -- Lew S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland) Visit: http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett for Pictures |
#3
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I am suprised that a good designer leaves out fiberglass
specifications on plans for a 35' trawler! Are you certain it's not somewhere in the notes? Anyway, here is what we would use: - fiberglass covering on plywood, if only for protection and resistance to abrasion: 9 oz. woven but, you could use 12 oz. biaxial 45/45 no matt and add strength to those panels. The biaxial fiber orientation at 45/45 will complement the plywood fibers at 0-90. It cost only a tiny little bit more, less than $ 50.00 extra for the whole boat. - fairing epoxy: it can not be done with Bondo type stuff. We sell a unique product from System Three named QuickFair. It is an epoxy fairing compound that is easy to apply, cures fast and is easy to sand and it is not soft like WEST Microlight. See a complete description he http://www.boatbuildercentral.com/pr...?id=17&Fairing You can ask questions about application etc. on our message baord and there, you will also read opinions and tips about fairing on epoxy: http://bateau2.com/ Jacques from bateau.com |
#4
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Oops, I may have stepped in it again. I think I should have said it is my
understanding that he made several suggested lay-ups leaving the final choice to my friend, the builder. I thank you and the other's who have offered advice. The hull on this boat is three layers of 1/2" ply on the bottoms and two layers of 1/2" on the sides. It seems quite stout so the glass is just a covering, I guess. I have never done any wet lay-ups like Glenn sugested so the idea of handling wetted out cloth with it's tendancy to become distorted kind of worries me just having a small lay-up crew of one or two people. I would have thought biaxial would be easier to handle than cloth due to it's stiching. I used all biaxial on my boat but it was stiched to mat and laid down dry, very easy to handle. -- Ron White Boat building web address is www.concentric.net/~knotreel |
#5
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"Ron White" wrote in message ...
Oops, I may have stepped in it again. I think I should have said it is my understanding that he made several suggested lay-ups leaving the final choice to my friend, the builder. I thank you and the other's who have offered advice. The hull on this boat is three layers of 1/2" ply on the bottoms and two layers of 1/2" on the sides. It seems quite stout so the glass is just a covering, I guess. I have never done any wet lay-ups like Glenn sugested so the idea of handling wetted out cloth with it's tendancy to become distorted kind of worries me just having a small lay-up crew of one or two people. I would have thought biaxial would be easier to handle than cloth due to it's stiching. I used all biaxial on my boat but it was stiched to mat and laid down dry, very easy to handle. With that kind of planking, I understand the designer's response. All what he needs is some protection against abrasion etc. - 9 oz. woven would be great. Pick a fine weave: as Joel writes, it will require less fairing and sanding. Jacques http://bateau.com |
#6
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"Ron White" wrote in message ...
I am helping a friend who is building a 35' motor trawler. It is planked with marine ply and epoxy glued and it soon need fairing. Are there any good commercially available epoxy fairing compounds in 5 gallon units? He is debating weather to fair the hull after the glass is laid or more likely fairing before and lightly fairing after the glassing. On the subject of glassing, the designer, Carl Stambaugh, recommended biaxial tape at the corners and has left skin up to the builder and has offered several suggestions. I am thinking that maybe a biaxial covering would be easier for a small crew (2) to handle as compared to woven cloth? The boat has a 2' wide box keel that among other things, will take most of the grounding abuse. He is debating on the glass skin with a Kevlar overlay or just add some roving to the bottom of the box for protection. Any suggestions would be welcome. ---------------------- For fairing that much, I would mix my own compound using microballoons and epoxy. It will be a lot cheaper than the System three quick fair (which is good stuff, we sell it too). While the biax will be stronger, it will require more fairing. If you need large quantities of epoxy and glass, I can give you a deal on a "kit". Joel Boatbuildercentral.com |