I have a 4cyl Ford Dorset engine and I want to connect it to the heating
coil in calorifier. I assume the aim is to have the engine cooling water
flowing through the calorifier before it reaches the bowman heat exchanger.

There is, what looks like, a 3/8" bsp plug next to the thermostat housing,
but if I take a feed from here I will effectively bypass the thermostat and
the engine would take ages, to reach it's working temperature, if at all.

If I put 2 tee pieces between the engine and the heat exchanger will the
water actually flow round that loop, the flow and return would be very close
together.

If I put a tee in the flow before the heat exchanger and the return after
it, would I risk significantly bypassing the heat exchanger.

Any ideas, suggestions? I guess the set up is fundamentally the same on any
engine.

On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 13:37:46 +0100, "Nigel"
wrote:

I have a 4cyl Ford Dorset engine and I want to connect it to the heating
coil in calorifier. I assume the aim is to have the engine cooling water
flowing through the calorifier before it reaches the bowman heat exchanger.

There is, what looks like, a 3/8" bsp plug next to the thermostat housing,
but if I take a feed from here I will effectively bypass the thermostat and
the engine would take ages, to reach it's working temperature, if at all.

If I put 2 tee pieces between the engine and the heat exchanger will the
water actually flow round that loop, the flow and return would be very close
together.

If I put a tee in the flow before the heat exchanger and the return after
it, would I risk significantly bypassing the heat exchanger.

Any ideas, suggestions? I guess the set up is fundamentally the same on any
engine.


The only boat I had with a hot water heater used the existing
connections on the engine. As I remember it, it did not take an
unusual amount of time to warn up. Apparently a 3/8" connection does
not bypass a sufficient portion of the water pump output to be
noticeable.

See http://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/11

for additional information.
--

Cheers,

Bruce

"Bruce" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 13:37:46 +0100, "Nigel"
wrote:

I have a 4cyl Ford Dorset engine and I want to connect it to the heating
coil in calorifier. I assume the aim is to have the engine cooling water
flowing through the calorifier before it reaches the bowman heat
exchanger.

There is, what looks like, a 3/8" bsp plug next to the thermostat housing,
but if I take a feed from here I will effectively bypass the thermostat
and
the engine would take ages, to reach it's working temperature, if at all.

If I put 2 tee pieces between the engine and the heat exchanger will the
water actually flow round that loop, the flow and return would be very
close
together.

If I put a tee in the flow before the heat exchanger and the return after
it, would I risk significantly bypassing the heat exchanger.

Any ideas, suggestions? I guess the set up is fundamentally the same on
any
engine.


The only boat I had with a hot water heater used the existing
connections on the engine. As I remember it, it did not take an
unusual amount of time to warn up. Apparently a 3/8" connection does
not bypass a sufficient portion of the water pump output to be
noticeable.

See http://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/11

for additional information.
--

Cheers,

Bruce


Thanks Bruce, that chimes with the majority of opinion I've had so I guess I
ought to suck it and see., I'll let you know how it goes



Cheers
Nigel

On Mon, 7 Nov 2011 09:19:30 -0000, "Nigel"
wrote:


"Bruce" wrote in message
.. .
On Sat, 29 Oct 2011 13:37:46 +0100, "Nigel"
wrote:

I have a 4cyl Ford Dorset engine and I want to connect it to the heating
coil in calorifier. I assume the aim is to have the engine cooling water
flowing through the calorifier before it reaches the bowman heat
exchanger.

There is, what looks like, a 3/8" bsp plug next to the thermostat housing,
but if I take a feed from here I will effectively bypass the thermostat
and
the engine would take ages, to reach it's working temperature, if at all.

If I put 2 tee pieces between the engine and the heat exchanger will the
water actually flow round that loop, the flow and return would be very
close
together.

If I put a tee in the flow before the heat exchanger and the return after
it, would I risk significantly bypassing the heat exchanger.

Any ideas, suggestions? I guess the set up is fundamentally the same on
any
engine.


The only boat I had with a hot water heater used the existing
connections on the engine. As I remember it, it did not take an
unusual amount of time to warn up. Apparently a 3/8" connection does
not bypass a sufficient portion of the water pump output to be
noticeable.

See http://www.sailangle.com/articles/details/id/11

for additional information.
--

Cheers,

Bruce


Thanks Bruce, that chimes with the majority of opinion I've had so I guess I
ought to suck it and see., I'll let you know how it goes



Cheers
Nigel

In thinking about it you could plumb in a 3/8" valve at the engine
outlet and open it when you wanted to make hot water, in fact it is a
good idea..

I had a electric/calorifier hot water tank, perhaps 20 Ltr capacity
and on a cool Singapore evening I used to run the engine, probably 15
- 20 minutes to get enough water to shower in.

You probably know this but it is a proper calorifier it has an over
temperature/over pressure relief valve in it. Running my 4 cylinder
Perkins engine at say 2,000 RPM for any length of time, say 45 minutes
- 1 hour, would heat the tank enough that the over heat valve would
open and flow water down into the bilge.

--

Cheers,

Bruce

snip


In thinking about it you could plumb in a 3/8" valve at the engine
outlet and open it when you wanted to make hot water, in fact it is a
good idea..

I had a electric/calorifier hot water tank, perhaps 20 Ltr capacity
and on a cool Singapore evening I used to run the engine, probably 15
- 20 minutes to get enough water to shower in.

You probably know this but it is a proper calorifier it has an over
temperature/over pressure relief valve in it. Running my 4 cylinder
Perkins engine at say 2,000 RPM for any length of time, say 45 minutes
- 1 hour, would heat the tank enough that the over heat valve would
open and flow water down into the bilge.

--

Cheers,

Bruce

I had thought of adding valves on both the flow and return, then if I ever
had a problem with the calorifier it wouldn't need to affect the engine.
I might see if I can source a 24v thermostatic valve that would shut off
supply to the calorifier once it had reached temperature.

The set up I currently have is a twin coil, 65lt calorifier with an electric
emersion heater. I have a Reflex diesel heater that runs a couple of
radiators plus the hot water. It takes a while buts works pretty well on a
cold evening, but most times through the summer it puts to much heat into
the cabin to be useful as a water heater.

Cheers
Nigel

On Mon, 7 Nov 2011 20:49:56 -0000, "Nigel"
wrote:

snip


In thinking about it you could plumb in a 3/8" valve at the engine
outlet and open it when you wanted to make hot water, in fact it is a
good idea..

I had a electric/calorifier hot water tank, perhaps 20 Ltr capacity
and on a cool Singapore evening I used to run the engine, probably 15
- 20 minutes to get enough water to shower in.

You probably know this but it is a proper calorifier it has an over
temperature/over pressure relief valve in it. Running my 4 cylinder
Perkins engine at say 2,000 RPM for any length of time, say 45 minutes
- 1 hour, would heat the tank enough that the over heat valve would
open and flow water down into the bilge.

--

Cheers,

Bruce

I had thought of adding valves on both the flow and return, then if I ever
had a problem with the calorifier it wouldn't need to affect the engine.
I might see if I can source a 24v thermostatic valve that would shut off
supply to the calorifier once it had reached temperature.

The set up I currently have is a twin coil, 65lt calorifier with an electric
emersion heater. I have a Reflex diesel heater that runs a couple of
radiators plus the hot water. It takes a while buts works pretty well on a
cold evening, but most times through the summer it puts to much heat into
the cabin to be useful as a water heater.

Cheers
Nigel

Good Lord, what kind of boat is this? A 65 ltr. hot water tank?

(but more seriously I think valves on inlet and outlet would be a good
idea.)

--

Cheers,

Bruce

Good Lord, what kind of boat is this? A 65 ltr. hot water tank?

snip

lol..... she's a Bruce Roberts 53 .. www.jassira.com (website could do
with some work as well )

On Tue, 8 Nov 2011 08:10:05 -0000, "Nigel"
wrote:


Good Lord, what kind of boat is this? A 65 ltr. hot water tank?

snip

lol..... she's a Bruce Roberts 53 .. www.jassira.com (website could do
with some work as well )

A lovely boat. I knew a bloke who had one. Bought one as a hollow
shell, in Singapore and spent years doing the interior - then sold it
:-(

--

Cheers,

Bruce

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