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Bill Bligh July 16th 09 11:40 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)

Lew Hodgett[_3_] July 17th 09 03:49 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
"Bill Bligh" wrote:

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.


Be careful with 5200.

You will need a heat gun to break it loose.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.


What are your concerns?


Lew



[email protected] July 17th 09 11:06 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)


5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!


Jim July 17th 09 06:16 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)


5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!


5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.

Bruce In Bangkok July 18th 09 01:22 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)


5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!


5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.


Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Brian July 18th 09 04:01 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)

5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!


5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.


Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


And it does all those things. The problem is that if you are using it as a
bedding compound it will work fine until it comes time to replace what ever
you are bedding. Have fun.

Brian



Steve Lusardi July 18th 09 05:46 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
Bill,
I love 5200. It's fabulous stuff, but as a flexible, permanent adhesive, not
a sealant. Bronze will work underwater IF it is not electrically connected
to any other metallic object that is not also bronze. As your hull is
plastic, you should not have an issue.
Steve

"Bill Bligh" wrote in message
...
First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)




Bruce In Bangkok July 18th 09 08:32 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:01:44 -0700, "Brian"
wrote:


"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
.. .
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)

5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!


5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.


Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


And it does all those things. The problem is that if you are using it as a
bedding compound it will work fine until it comes time to replace what ever
you are bedding. Have fun.

Brian


I guess the point is that the things I bed, I don't expect to be
changing frequently, like thru-hull fittings. I'd much rather spend a
little more time to remove them, if I ever have to, then have them
leak.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Jim July 19th 09 07:06 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:01:44 -0700, "Brian"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)
5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!

5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.
Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

And it does all those things. The problem is that if you are using it as a
bedding compound it will work fine until it comes time to replace what ever
you are bedding. Have fun.

Brian


I guess the point is that the things I bed, I don't expect to be
changing frequently, like thru-hull fittings. I'd much rather spend a
little more time to remove them, if I ever have to, then have them
leak.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


That was the thinking the guy with the transducer used. When was the
last time a properly installed thru-hull leaked?



Bruce In Bangkok July 20th 09 01:14 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:06:07 -0700, Jim wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:01:44 -0700, "Brian"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)
5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!

5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.
Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
And it does all those things. The problem is that if you are using it as a
bedding compound it will work fine until it comes time to replace what ever
you are bedding. Have fun.

Brian


I guess the point is that the things I bed, I don't expect to be
changing frequently, like thru-hull fittings. I'd much rather spend a
little more time to remove them, if I ever have to, then have them
leak.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


That was the thinking the guy with the transducer used. When was the
last time a properly installed thru-hull leaked?



Tell the truth, I've never had a thru hull fitting leak. Of course I
put 'um in with 5200 :-)

Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install
something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder
why they use something called an adhesive to install something they
plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I
don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to
take it apart..."

\
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Jim July 20th 09 09:51 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
Bruce In Bangkok wrote:

Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install
something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder
why they use something called an adhesive to install something they
plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I
don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to
take it apart..."

\
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


And I'm confused too, 5200 is called an adhesive/sealant. I won't argue
that it's a good sealant, but it primarily an adhesive. Sometimes we
make life tougher than it needs to be by using the wrong criteria to
select the material we are going to use.

5200 is a special case. People think that it's stronger and stronger is
always better, when 4200 is a better choice, because you don't need
strength. You need bedding compound. Sealant, not adhesive.

5200 is more of a construction adhesive, like you would use when you
fasten a newly made fiberglass deck to a newly made hull.

I use 4200 on thruhulls because a thruhull does not last forever, you
might want to remove it, I just removed three old ones because of
corrosion, or because you screwed up the threads by cross threading a
new gate valve. A friend of mine just did that by not knowing one had a
tapered thread.

It's a nice sentiment that your thruhull is in place permanently.
Permanent is not always desirable. See the guy with the transducer for
more on that. Or my friend with the screwed up threads, or my old
corroded ones.

When I changed out my old transducer for a new model, and removed the
old corroded thruhulls, I was pleasantly surprised they came out with
minimal effort. I still had to use a 5 pound hammer and a block, and
worked up quite a sweat. Took two days, but I didn't damage the hull
doing it.

It's always a good idea to use appropriate materials in appropriate
applications.

Bruce In Bangkok July 21st 09 01:20 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 13:51:01 -0700, Jim wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:

Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install
something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder
why they use something called an adhesive to install something they
plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I
don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to
take it apart..."

\
Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


And I'm confused too, 5200 is called an adhesive/sealant. I won't argue
that it's a good sealant, but it primarily an adhesive. Sometimes we
make life tougher than it needs to be by using the wrong criteria to
select the material we are going to use.

5200 is a special case. People think that it's stronger and stronger is
always better, when 4200 is a better choice, because you don't need
strength. You need bedding compound. Sealant, not adhesive.

5200 is more of a construction adhesive, like you would use when you
fasten a newly made fiberglass deck to a newly made hull.

I use 4200 on thruhulls because a thruhull does not last forever, you
might want to remove it, I just removed three old ones because of
corrosion, or because you screwed up the threads by cross threading a
new gate valve. A friend of mine just did that by not knowing one had a
tapered thread.

It's a nice sentiment that your thruhull is in place permanently.
Permanent is not always desirable. See the guy with the transducer for
more on that. Or my friend with the screwed up threads, or my old
corroded ones.

When I changed out my old transducer for a new model, and removed the
old corroded thruhulls, I was pleasantly surprised they came out with
minimal effort. I still had to use a 5 pound hammer and a block, and
worked up quite a sweat. Took two days, but I didn't damage the hull
doing it.


It's always a good idea to use appropriate materials in appropriate
applications.



My point exactly - why misuse a product and then bitch about it?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Richard Casady August 13th 09 05:26 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 19:14:39 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Sun, 19 Jul 2009 11:06:07 -0700, Jim wrote:

Bruce In Bangkok wrote:
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:01:44 -0700, "Brian"
wrote:

"Bruce In Bangkok" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 17 Jul 2009 10:16:00 -0700, Jim wrote:

wrote:
On Thu, 16 Jul 2009 22:40:18 GMT, Bill Bligh
wrote:

First I bought a brass drain, then 'Oh No, brass in salt water...'
Then, Bronze.......Then, Oh, look at the one claiming to be stainless
steel.

Now, Bronze drain, Bronze hardware, WEST epoxy to seal fiberglass
penetrations and 3M 5200 as adhesive, sealant and whatever.

Bonding and corrosion are my concerns.
Perhaps, best would be to install using the Bronze and beach her
every few weeks to look for corrosion?

Does anyone have strong favorites and faith in choices for this
project?

Thanks,

Bligh (Bill) (Cptn)
5200 is the wrong thing to use for this application. You'll be sorry!

5200 is the wrong thing for a lot of applications.

Last time I hauled out the guy next to me was trying to remove a
transducer he installed with 5200. He thought it would last forever.
He didn't test it, it didn't work.

West Marine told him to bring it back and they would replace it.
Well, 3M does advertise it as a "High-performance polyurethane
adhesive sealant that stays flexible and waterproof, yet resists
weathering and salt water. Bonds and seals woods and fiberglass of
boat hulls."

I wonder what people expect?

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)
And it does all those things. The problem is that if you are using it as a
bedding compound it will work fine until it comes time to replace what ever
you are bedding. Have fun.

Brian

I guess the point is that the things I bed, I don't expect to be
changing frequently, like thru-hull fittings. I'd much rather spend a
little more time to remove them, if I ever have to, then have them
leak.

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


That was the thinking the guy with the transducer used. When was the
last time a properly installed thru-hull leaked?



Tell the truth, I've never had a thru hull fitting leak. Of course I
put 'um in with 5200 :-)

Frankly I'm a bit confused with all this talk about people who install
something using 5200 and then have problems taking it out. I wonder
why they use something called an adhesive to install something they
plan to remove. After all, epoxy glue is a pretty fair adhesive but I
don't hear people warning "don't use epoxy, you'll never be able to
take it apart..."


Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy.
You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts.
that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond.

Casady

Brian Whatcott August 14th 09 12:00 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
Richard Casady wrote:
/snip/

Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy.
You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts.
that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond.

Casady


Which reminds me - I saw a product that came as news to me in this
application: a can of refrigerant aerosol that freezes a rusty joint to
-40 degrees, so the rust line cracks, and thin releasing lubricant can
enter. Who knew? Not me.

Brian W

Bruce In Bangkok August 21st 09 12:22 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:20 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:



Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy.
You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts.
that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond.

Casady



If you are talking about "glass bedding" it isn't usually "gluing" the
barrel and action into the stock, it is actually fitting the action
and barrel to the stock - you are supposed to use wax or other release
action on the steel parts :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)

Richard Casady August 24th 09 01:24 PM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:22:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:20 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:



Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy.
You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts.
that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond.

Casady



If you are talking about "glass bedding" it isn't usually "gluing" the
barrel and action into the stock, it is actually fitting the action
and barrel to the stock - you are supposed to use wax or other release
action on the steel parts :-)


Not usually, sometimes.

I am familiar with glass bedding with a release agent. I sold the kits
at my gun store. This is deliberately glueing the gun together, in a
manner intended to be perminent. Only by the benchrest crowd, far as I
know.

Casady

Bruce In Bangkok August 25th 09 01:03 AM

Bilge drains Bonding, Corrosion and Mounting For a Westerly 22 fiberglass twin keel sailboat
 
On Mon, 24 Aug 2009 12:24:07 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote:

On Fri, 21 Aug 2009 06:22:57 +0700, Bruce In Bangkok
wrote:

On Thu, 13 Aug 2009 16:26:20 GMT,
(Richard
Casady) wrote:



Guys glue the metal parts of a rifle into the stock with epoxy.
You use dry ice. The metal and glue will shrink different ammounts.
that plus maybe a bit of the mallet will generally break the bond.

Casady



If you are talking about "glass bedding" it isn't usually "gluing" the
barrel and action into the stock, it is actually fitting the action
and barrel to the stock - you are supposed to use wax or other release
action on the steel parts :-)


Not usually, sometimes.

I am familiar with glass bedding with a release agent. I sold the kits
at my gun store. This is deliberately glueing the gun together, in a
manner intended to be perminent. Only by the benchrest crowd, far as I
know.

Casady


If it is a bench rest gun then anything is likely. I've seen some of
the "unlimited" guns that you needed to be told "it's a gun" to figure
out what it was.


Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)


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