BoatBanter.com

BoatBanter.com (https://www.boatbanter.com/)
-   ASA (https://www.boatbanter.com/asa/)
-   -   Etchells Repair Work Pictures (https://www.boatbanter.com/asa/84670-etchells-repair-work-pictures.html)

Bart August 5th 07 08:55 PM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
Just about everywhere anything was through-bolted on
my Etchells, I found core rot or wet core. I decided to take
some time off from sailing to bring the boat up to Bristol
standards. I have plans to use the boat in the last week
in August and I want it perfect by then.

You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.

Pictures.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560166062GlPvzp

Neat video showing what wet core looks like and rotten core.

http://good-times.webshots.com/video...01903646kvMSDv

Question. What is the music playing in the background?
Who is the artist?

More pictures to follow later.

Bart


Joe August 6th 07 02:30 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Aug 5, 2:55 pm, Bart wrote:
Just about everywhere anything was through-bolted on
my Etchells, I found core rot or wet core. I decided to take
some time off from sailing to bring the boat up to Bristol
standards. I have plans to use the boat in the last week
in August and I want it perfect by then.

You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.

Pictures.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560166062GlPvzp

Neat video showing what wet core looks like and rotten core.

http://good-times.webshots.com/video...01903646kvMSDv

Question. What is the music playing in the background?
Who is the artist?

More pictures to follow later.

Bart


Thanks Bart. Now I remember why steel is better...;0)

Joe


Frank Boettcher August 6th 07 03:22 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 12:55:42 -0700, Bart
wrote:

Just about everywhere anything was through-bolted on
my Etchells, I found core rot or wet core. I decided to take
some time off from sailing to bring the boat up to Bristol
standards. I have plans to use the boat in the last week
in August and I want it perfect by then.

You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.

Pictures.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560166062GlPvzp

Neat video showing what wet core looks like and rotten core.

http://good-times.webshots.com/video...01903646kvMSDv

Question. What is the music playing in the background?
Who is the artist?

More pictures to follow later.

Bart



Been there, done that.

mine was a result of poor design in that some of the fasteners for
minor holding, (main hatch cowl, head vent, etc) were screwed into the
core, but not all the way through. Big mistake. let water into the
core, but no chance to get all the way through.

I did all the repairs with epoxy, rather than polyester material.
What will you do?

Frank

Bart August 6th 07 03:34 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Aug 5, 9:30 pm, Joe wrote:
On Aug 5, 2:55 pm, Bart wrote:



Just about everywhere anything was through-bolted on
my Etchells, I found core rot or wet core. I decided to take
some time off from sailing to bring the boat up to Bristol
standards. I have plans to use the boat in the last week
in August and I want it perfect by then.


You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.


Pictures.


http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560166062GlPvzp


Neat video showing what wet core looks like and rotten core.


http://good-times.webshots.com/video...01903646kvMSDv


Question. What is the music playing in the background?
Who is the artist?


More pictures to follow later.


Bart


Thanks Bart. Now I remember why steel is better...;0)

Joe


Steel is real, but glass is class!

I'm really looking forward to making the boat look
perfect. For example, I have too pretty good
compasses, but I'm changing them out for newer
ones without the checkering in the lens. And I
am thrilled about the fact I can forget about core
damage in the future.

I have the itchy and scratchies right now--I don't
mind.

Today I ground off most the the gel coat on the deck.
I am adding one more layer of glass to the
deck and the last part is fixing the cracks around
the lip of the cockpit. I have a couple ideas on how
to do that best. Two thirds of the bottom
paint is sanded off. There are only a few defects
in the hull to be repaired. I'll be picking up primer
soon, and I then comes the fun part painting the
hull. I'll probably put gel coat back on the deck.
I have a cool way to do non-skid.

I have a few other things to do. HOOT had a
hollow rectangle to mount the base of a boom
crutch. That part broke and I fabricated a new
one out of a solid 3x5" block of 1.25" thick
fiberglass. Even though I drilled small holes
everywhere, close enough to nearly touch,
I wore out four jig saw blades cutting out the
center. These fiberglass panels are tough!

I am mounting a depth finder and building a battery
mount. I'd like to sail near the islands here, and
can't risk running aground. These boats are hard
to free from a grounding.





Bart August 6th 07 03:13 PM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Aug 6, 7:01 am, OzOne wrote:
On Sun, 05 Aug 2007 12:55:42 -0700, Bart
scribbled thusly:



Just about everywhere anything was through-bolted on
my Etchells, I found core rot or wet core. I decided to take
some time off from sailing to bring the boat up to Bristol
standards. I have plans to use the boat in the last week
in August and I want it perfect by then.


You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.


Pictures.


http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560166062GlPvzp


Neat video showing what wet core looks like and rotten core.


http://good-times.webshots.com/video...01903646kvMSDv


Question. What is the music playing in the background?
Who is the artist?


More pictures to follow later.


Bart


Hey Bart,
What is the hull number of your boat?
Seems like a lot of damage.

With my Etchells, all small holes are drilled slightly oversize then
thru bolts and inside of the hole coated with epoxy then mounted.
Larger holes have core scraped back under the inner and outer skins
then filled with epoxy.

Important to spray threads with a release agent, WD40 or Silicone
spray before coating so they can be screwed out later.

Not a great fan of the "leave the bottom open to let water out"
theory, as much damage is done by capillary action drawing water up as
water flowing down..



Hull number is 83. The boat was built in 1973 or so. So it has
seen better days.

Thanks for the tip about waxing the threads. That is a good
idea.

I would use your method if I was re-bedding my hardware. I choose
to put the bigger pieces in there because I had the material
handy.


I still believe in letting the water through on an open boat like
this. There is no risk of damaging anything else inside the
boat. However, here in Connecticut, freezing action is a serioius
concern. Any water in between the deck anywhere can
start a crack when frozen, and that will lead to more extensive
damage. Do you have freezing weather where you live?


Bart August 6th 07 03:17 PM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
Oz,

Do you have any pictures of your Jib fine trim
rigging?

Bart


Maxprop August 6th 07 09:10 PM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 

"Bart" wrote in message

You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.


Isn't this the way things should be done in the first place, Bart? Why do
manufacturers--Catalina and Huneter, for examples, put wood--generally
ply--under hardware attach points? Why not solid fiberglass, or even rigid,
closed-cell foam? Do any manufacturers do it that way?

Max



Bart August 7th 07 12:34 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Aug 6, 4:10 pm, "Maxprop" wrote:
"Bart" wrote in message
You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.


Isn't this the way things should be done in the first place, Bart? Why do
manufacturers--Catalina and Huneter, for examples, put wood--generally
ply--under hardware attach points? Why not solid fiberglass, or even rigid,
closed-cell foam? Do any manufacturers do it that way?

Max


You are right Max. I read an article about people
touring the Valiant plant which was under new
ownership. They found that these people were doing
it the wrong way. Of course they swore they'd make
changes--but when it takes more time, and cost more
and the new buyer can't see it, they have little motivation
to do the job right in the first place.


Maxprop August 7th 07 04:32 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 

"Bart" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Aug 6, 4:10 pm, "Maxprop" wrote:
"Bart" wrote in message
You know how core gets wet, people tighten things up
crush the core more and it just keeps spreading. I decided
to cut up a 24" and 28" piece of 3/8" fiberglass panel to
replace the balsa core under all deck fittings. The idea
being, this will prevent any ingress of water into my balsa
core. I will not use any bedding for any deck hardware,
and of course you should never bed the bottom, as you
want the water to find it's way though.


Isn't this the way things should be done in the first place, Bart? Why
do
manufacturers--Catalina and Huneter, for examples, put wood--generally
ply--under hardware attach points? Why not solid fiberglass, or even
rigid,
closed-cell foam? Do any manufacturers do it that way?

Max


You are right Max. I read an article about people
touring the Valiant plant which was under new
ownership. They found that these people were doing
it the wrong way. Of course they swore they'd make
changes--but when it takes more time, and cost more
and the new buyer can't see it, they have little motivation
to do the job right in the first place.


Unfortunate. Valiant builds an otherwise fine yacht.

Max



Bart August 8th 07 04:17 AM

Etchells Repair Work Pictures
 
On Aug 6, 10:17 am, Bart wrote:
Oz,

Do you have any pictures of your Jib fine trim
rigging?

Bart


Never mind Oz, I found it on the Harken web
site. They have a neat arrangement. I plan to
use it.

http://www.harken.com/rigtips/etchells22.php

Also a good mast mover system. Another thing
I need to rig.

The last thing I'm looking for is a mast butt
mover. Do you know where I can buy one?
Or do I have to build my own?



All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:19 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com