LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2007
Posts: 225
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

Peel ply is GREAT stuff. I used it for the first time last year on a
fairly technical prject... now I use it for almost any epoxying/
fiberglassing job; it is not expensive and it saves a lot of work. The
peel ply is a layer of porous cloth that the resin won't stick to.
Sounds great huh? You lay it over the wet lamination, roller it down,
and the resin oozes up thru the peel ply. Sounds better & better eh?
Well it improves adherence, eliminates voids & bubbles, gives you a
higher fiber/resin ratio, and (here's the best part) when you peel it
off the cured lamination, it leaves behind a roughened but uniform
surface that doesn't need any sanding before putting on another layer.
Stronger better faster, and no sanding dust. Secondary bonds put on a
peel ply-ed surface are about 20 to 30% stronger, and if you do it
while the resin is still a little green, it's not a secondary bond at
all.


That actually sounds like a great solution to my vaccuum bagging
dillema. The designer doesn't say anything about bagging but it
helps. The problem is I have never done fiberglass before and I
didn't want to spend another $300+ on equipment but what you are
talking about seems to be like half the way to VB without using pumps
and stuff. I will definately do that. I am looking for ways to
reduce weight without reducing strength and think this will help.

I have laid on paint over a peel ply-ed surface and came out
beautiful. A resin finish would surely do the same, you could sand &
varnish the final coat if you chose.


Yeah there will be a lot of sanding involved if I want that thick
glass look.

Any pictures of your outrigger?


Well the structural building hasn't started yet, I'm in the planning,
buying, and tooling up stages right now. It probably wont rain much
here in So Cal this year anymore so i can get the wood pretty soon and
get something more substantial done but I don't want to rush. This is
the design http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/garyd/plans.html but I am
making a few minor changes, all designer approved of course. i am
using a second outrigger that will be set on the open side, like the
BW pic at the bottom of the page, but in close to the hull for safety
and weight reduction, making it really hard to flip. I am adding a
couple extra hiking seats to improve balance and I am going with a
slightly larger sail. Also I am using bamboo for the crossbeams and
if i can find it for the mast. There will be a forestay and the mast
will sit in a reinforced tube indtead of being just strapped to the
beam. Later I am going to try to add a small jib sail, mostly to
practice using one. The jib may not really add any speed but I want
to find out for myself. I am also considering doing a traditional
carving at the bow and stern. The designer has a lot of experience in
polynesia and he says that traditionally they would often add a
carving of a bird head and tail. I am thinking an Albotross for
luck. For a name I am thinking 'Moli' which is the Hawaiian name for
the Laysan Albotross. The only problem is that I have never done
carvings before so that will be a dependent on the outcome. I am going
to have to buy the paddles because I don't think I get the curve right
but I am going to attempt to make the steering oar. There are
instructions with my plans and I want to get it long enough.

I am trying to come up with some sort of rest for the oar that will
allow it to hold its position, kind of like an autopilot, so I don't
have to hold it all the time. I think a simple box with round notches
cut out to let it rest in certain positions with some kind of a latch
to hold it in place.

I have a lot of work ahead of me.

Bill

  #12   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2007
Posts: 225
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

What kind of bombs should we use?

We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.

  #13   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Mar 2007
Posts: 225
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?

Thanks
Bill

  #14   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,058
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part


"Bill" wrote in message
oups.com...
What kind of bombs should we use?


We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.


How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.

Max


  #15   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Oct 2006
Posts: 126
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

Bill wrote:
One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?

Thanks
Bill


Usually an absorber layer - burlap works well.


  #16   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Feb 2007
Posts: 900
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

"Bill" wrote:
One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?


Neither.

http://sports.webshots.com/photo/205...p?vhost=sports

I used a layer of very cheap PVC sheeting (sold in Home Depot/Lowes as
painters drop cloth), which will not adhere to resin, directly over
the peel ply. Lay on the goop, lay on the FG cloth, lay on the peel
ply, lay on the drop cloth; then roller the crap out of it (being
somewhat careful to not wrinkle or tear the sheet... easy when one
gets the knack); then go do something else for a few hours. With the
plastic sheet over the lamination, bubbles don't tend to creep back in
once the stuff is rollered down good, excess oozes thru the peel ply
and off the edge (in fact I often scooped it up and used it
eleswhere). The peel ply can't be re-used but the PVC drop cloth can
be used many times. Get 3 mil for large flattish areas you want really
smooth and rollered down hard; use lighter stuff down to 0.7mil for
compound tight curves and be gentler with it.

It's not quite as strong & light as vacuum bagging, but it's cheaper &
simpler & quite reliable.

I'm not sure burlap would make a good breather. You want something
that will be relatively transparent so you can see the bubbles & work
them out. A thin layer of matte, such as would be used to vacuum bag,
would probably work but it's one more specialty item to buy.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

  #17   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Feb 2007
Posts: 900
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

What kind of bombs should we use?


We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.



"Maxprop" wrote:
How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.


Yeah, but if you want that glass-bottomed lake effect, you gotta use
the full monty.

What infrastructure do we want to preserve anyway? I thought one of
the lessons of the current war is that the more stuff you blow up, the
more contractors get paid to rebuild it.

DSK

  #18   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Oct 2006
Posts: 126
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

wrote:
"Bill" wrote:

One more question. When you do peel ply, do you use a breather
absorber material or do you just absorb the excess with a roller?



Neither.

http://sports.webshots.com/photo/205...p?vhost=sports

I used a layer of very cheap PVC sheeting (sold in Home Depot/Lowes as
painters drop cloth), which will not adhere to resin, directly over
the peel ply. Lay on the goop, lay on the FG cloth, lay on the peel
ply, lay on the drop cloth; then roller the crap out of it (being
somewhat careful to not wrinkle or tear the sheet... easy when one
gets the knack); then go do something else for a few hours. With the
plastic sheet over the lamination, bubbles don't tend to creep back in
once the stuff is rollered down good, excess oozes thru the peel ply
and off the edge (in fact I often scooped it up and used it
eleswhere). The peel ply can't be re-used but the PVC drop cloth can
be used many times. Get 3 mil for large flattish areas you want really
smooth and rollered down hard; use lighter stuff down to 0.7mil for
compound tight curves and be gentler with it.

It's not quite as strong & light as vacuum bagging, but it's cheaper &
simpler & quite reliable.

I'm not sure burlap would make a good breather. You want something
that will be relatively transparent so you can see the bubbles & work
them out. A thin layer of matte, such as would be used to vacuum bag,
would probably work but it's one more specialty item to buy.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King


Sorry Doug.

I use burlap - but that's for vacuum bagging...

Richard
  #19   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,058
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part


wrote in message
ups.com...
What kind of bombs should we use?



We could make 'Dirty bombs' out of nuclear waste from nuclear power
plants. Not nearly as contaminating as actual nukes but still deadly,
for a really long time.



"Maxprop" wrote:
How about neutron bombs? My understanding is that they preserve the
infrastructure whilst eliminating the population, and with little or no
residual radioactivity.


Yeah, but if you want that glass-bottomed lake effect, you gotta use
the full monty.

What infrastructure do we want to preserve anyway?


I was waiting for someone to ask this. You might say I straightlined for a
response.

I thought one of
the lessons of the current war is that the more stuff you blow up, the
more contractors get paid to rebuild it.


Now that Haliburton is in Dubai, the floodgates are open. Katy bar the door
.. . .

Max



  #20   Report Post  
posted to alt.sailing.asa
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Feb 2007
Posts: 900
Default 2 part varnish vs. 1 part

cavelamb himself wrote:
Sorry Doug.

I use burlap - but that's for vacuum bagging...


OK, I never said you didn't. I may try it myself some time.
You gotta admit it's a strange recommendation.

DSK

 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cetol vs Bristol Finish ... NE Sailboat Cruising 27 March 14th 07 01:47 AM
Help with part number wingspan General 3 August 23rd 06 03:42 AM
A Commodores Meanderings: Part 2 RGrew176 General 0 August 3rd 04 03:03 AM
Siphons, anti-siphons & wet exhausts JAXAshby ASA 57 June 19th 04 08:25 PM
RDF for newbies and NN of KN JAXAshby ASA 22 March 11th 04 11:54 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:55 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2025 BoatBanter.com.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about Boats"

 

Copyright © 2017