Anchor Chain
 

* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.

Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you
imagine how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to
the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to
hold the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.

Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you imagine
how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding line to
the end of an all chain rode?

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Anchor Chain
 

On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 15:24:05 -0500, Capt. JG wrote
(in article ):

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.

Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you imagine
how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding line to
the end of an all chain rode?




Yes... That is the correct way. Just enough to get the chain past the bow.
Mine is spliced to a shackle with a thimble on both ends. One to the boat and
one about 10' from the bitter end of the chain. Might have to cut it away
some day as Jeff says. Ever try to cut chain with a knife.
--
Mundo, The Captain who is a bully and an ass

Anchor Chain
 

* Capt. JG wrote, On 2/23/2007 3:24 PM:
"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.
Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you imagine
how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding line to
the end of an all chain rode?

Of course. Why is that a problem? If you were concerned that you
could actually have all of the chain out in a gale and the boat was
being held by that piece of rope, then make it good nylon, which is
almost as strong as chain, for its size. This would provide some
shock absorbing when the boat snubbed up. You can even splice it onto
the chain such that it would run out a chain pipe.

However, it often would be sufficient to use smaller stuff. If the
chain locker is accessible you could use several turns of 3/8" line in
lieu of the shackle. The problem is that if you're dragging into
danger and want to jettison the ground tackle, you don't want to be
fumbling with a shackle that you went to great pains to make sure it
would never come loose!

I even keep a cheap serrated fillet knife stashed in the chain
locker, not because I expect this particular problem, but because its
a handy place to have a spare knife if I happen to be forward and need
one.

BTW, as it turns out I have mixed rodes, 50 feet of chain with 250
feet of nylon on the primary, 30 feet chain and 200 nylon on the
secondary. A third rode with chain is waiting in a locker, plus a
forth long nylon line.

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Capt. JG wrote, On 2/23/2007 3:24 PM:
"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.
Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you
imagine how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to
the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold
the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding line
to the end of an all chain rode?

Of course. Why is that a problem? If you were concerned that you could
actually have all of the chain out in a gale and the boat was being held
by that piece of rope, then make it good nylon, which is almost as strong
as chain, for its size. This would provide some shock absorbing when the
boat snubbed up. You can even splice it onto the chain such that it would
run out a chain pipe.

However, it often would be sufficient to use smaller stuff. If the chain
locker is accessible you could use several turns of 3/8" line in lieu of
the shackle. The problem is that if you're dragging into danger and want
to jettison the ground tackle, you don't want to be fumbling with a
shackle that you went to great pains to make sure it would never come
loose!

I even keep a cheap serrated fillet knife stashed in the chain locker,
not because I expect this particular problem, but because its a handy
place to have a spare knife if I happen to be forward and need one.

BTW, as it turns out I have mixed rodes, 50 feet of chain with 250 feet of
nylon on the primary, 30 feet chain and 200 nylon on the secondary. A
third rode with chain is waiting in a locker, plus a forth long nylon
line.


You should tell that to all the large charter companies... none of them do
this... at least the ones I've chartered with, although I don't see a
downside to it except the possibility of a connection failure, which could
be prevented with proper maintenance.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Anchor Chain
 

* Capt. JG wrote, On 2/23/2007 4:28 PM:
....
However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold
the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.

What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding line
to the end of an all chain rode?

Of course. Why is that a problem? If you were concerned that you could
actually have all of the chain out in a gale and the boat was being held
by that piece of rope, then make it good nylon, which is almost as strong
as chain, for its size. This would provide some shock absorbing when the
boat snubbed up. You can even splice it onto the chain such that it would
run out a chain pipe.
....

You should tell that to all the large charter companies... none of them do
this... at least the ones I've chartered with, although I don't see a
downside to it except the possibility of a connection failure, which could
be prevented with proper maintenance.

Are you saying they don't bother to secure the rode at all? That
would seem weird, given the large number of inexperienced users. I
can believe that they decided to shackle securely, peening it to make
it impossible to remove. The charter companies have different priorities.

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather
than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.

Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you
imagine how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to
the bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to
hold the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


And, never listen to Jeff. He's an imbecile! So you tie the bitter end
of your all-chain rode to a length of anchor line. Then you make fast
the end of the anchor line to your boat. This is so you can cut the line
in an emergency to free your ship from the anchor/rode. Ever hear of a
chain stopper, big boy? A chain stopper
allows the bitter end of the chain to remain free of tension. If you
wish to free yourself from the anchor/rode in an emergency you're much
safer unscrewing a stainless steel shackle inside the boat. You need not
even tighten the shackle more than finger tight. That way you don't even
need tools to unfasten it.

You can stand on the bow with your knife in a seven foot storm sea and
fifty knot wind trying to cut your anchor rode. Not me man! I'll do it
from inside where it's safe.

Wilbur Hubbard

Anchor Chain
 

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 23 Feb 2007 12:24:05 -0800, "Capt. JG"
wrote:

"Jeff" wrote in message
m...
* Milton Waddams wrote, On 2/23/2007 12:01 PM:
What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain
locker?
Should it just be left free? I am reluctant to run a large bolt
throught the last link because I don't want it ripping through the
deck. It would be nice to have something easy to disengage rather
than
something real permanent. Any suggestions? As always, thanks.

Of course the bitter end should be attached to the boat. Can you
imagine
how stupid you would feel if the chain got free and ran out to the
bottom?

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold
the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding
line to
the end of an all chain rode?

Absolutely, and for the reason Jeff mentioned.

CWM

You forgot the word "retarded". Jeff's reason is retarded. There is no
reason to have a rope tail to cut. If you have chain rode you have a
windlass. If you have a windlass you have a chain stopper. Either a
stopper built into the windlass or a stopper forward of it on deck. Or
preferably both. If you have the bitter end of the chain made fast below
in the chain locker with a stainless steel shackle made fast to a padeye
or eye bolt it is under no strain. If you should have to jettison the
rode/anchor for emergency reasons it is far better to do so from the
safety of the ships interior. Generally, should you have to part company
with your ground tackle it will be under severe wind and wave
conditions. It is generally not as safe on the bucking foredeck as it is
inside the vessel. You could even severely cut yourself with the knife.
You could even use a snap shackle in the chain locker if you thought a
stainless steel screw shackle might be tough to unfasten. Be sure to
buoy your rode before setting it free so you may retrieve it at a later
time. The buoy should have the name of your ship on it.

Wilbur Hubbard

Anchor Chain
 

* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/23/2007 6:04 PM:

However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.

What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding
line to
the end of an all chain rode?

Absolutely, and for the reason Jeff mentioned.

CWM

You forgot the word "retarded". Jeff's reason is retarded. There is no
reason to have a rope tail to cut. If you have chain rode you have a
windlass. If you have a windlass you have a chain stopper. Either a
stopper built into the windlass or a stopper forward of it on deck. Or
preferably both. If you have the bitter end of the chain made fast below
in the chain locker with a stainless steel shackle made fast to a padeye
or eye bolt it is under no strain. If you should have to jettison the
rode/anchor for emergency reasons it is far better to do so from the
safety of the ships interior. Generally, should you have to part company
with your ground tackle it will be under severe wind and wave
conditions. It is generally not as safe on the bucking foredeck as it is
inside the vessel. You could even severely cut yourself with the knife.
You could even use a snap shackle in the chain locker if you thought a
stainless steel screw shackle might be tough to unfasten. Be sure to
buoy your rode before setting it free so you may retrieve it at a later
time. The buoy should have the name of your ship on it.


Its clear you learned all you know by reading old West Marine catalogs
you found while dumpster diving.

First, the is no guarantee you have a windlass, and a windlass does
not imply a chain stopper. And the chain stopper will not
automatically stop the chain from running out. And when the boat
snubs up on shackle it will probably deform it just enough to make it
impossible to unscrew by hand.

Further, this nonsense about having to cut the line while hanging off
the bow proves that you've never actually been on a boat. Obviously,
the line would attach to the same spot you're saying to use with a
shackle, so one could cut it from the same "safe location" that you
could remove the shackle. The difference, of course, is that with rope
you can cut where ever is convenient, with 100% certainly, and with
a shackle there's a fair chance you'll need time and tools to get it
undone.

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
...
* Capt. JG wrote, On 2/23/2007 4:28 PM:
...
However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to
hold the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.

What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding
line to the end of an all chain rode?

Of course. Why is that a problem? If you were concerned that you could
actually have all of the chain out in a gale and the boat was being held
by that piece of rope, then make it good nylon, which is almost as
strong as chain, for its size. This would provide some shock absorbing
when the boat snubbed up. You can even splice it onto the chain such
that it would run out a chain pipe.
...

You should tell that to all the large charter companies... none of them
do this... at least the ones I've chartered with, although I don't see a
downside to it except the possibility of a connection failure, which
could be prevented with proper maintenance.

Are you saying they don't bother to secure the rode at all? That would
seem weird, given the large number of inexperienced users. I can believe
that they decided to shackle securely, peening it to make it impossible to
remove. The charter companies have different priorities.


They shackle the end of the rode to the boat.. Sorry if my response was
confusing.

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

Anchor Chain
 

On Feb 23, 6:55 pm, Jeff wrote:
* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/23/2007 6:04 PM:







However, ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat.
It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to hold the
boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.

What about boats that have all chain rodes? Are you proposing adding
line to
the end of an all chain rode?

Absolutely, and for the reason Jeff mentioned.

CWM

You forgot the word "retarded". Jeff's reason is retarded. There is no
reason to have a rope tail to cut. If you have chain rode you have a
windlass. If you have a windlass you have a chain stopper. Either a
stopper built into the windlass or a stopper forward of it on deck. Or
preferably both. If you have the bitter end of the chain made fast below
in the chain locker with a stainless steel shackle made fast to a padeye
or eye bolt it is under no strain. If you should have to jettison the
rode/anchor for emergency reasons it is far better to do so from the
safety of the ships interior. Generally, should you have to part company
with your ground tackle it will be under severe wind and wave
conditions. It is generally not as safe on the bucking foredeck as it is
inside the vessel. You could even severely cut yourself with the knife.
You could even use a snap shackle in the chain locker if you thought a
stainless steel screw shackle might be tough to unfasten. Be sure to
buoy your rode before setting it free so you may retrieve it at a later
time. The buoy should have the name of your ship on it.

Its clear you learned all you know by reading old West Marine catalogs
you found while dumpster diving.

His condo has 8 dumpsters



First, the is no guarantee you have a windlass, and a windlass does
not imply a chain stopper. And the chain stopper will not
automatically stop the chain from running out.

IMO if you have more than 15 ft of chain you need a windlass. You are
correct a stopper will not stop a moving chain. I like 3 braid nylon
stoppers. and I hate steel door type stoppers. Stoppers are only
applied after the rode is stopped.

And when the boat
snubs up on shackle it will probably deform it just enough to make it
impossible to unscrew by hand.

Get a set up like this Jeff, you can find them surplus:
http://www.globalsecurity.org/milita...13/fig3-66.gif.

You can set lengths and insure you will never have a bent pin on the
eye.


Further, this nonsense about having to cut the line while hanging off
the bow proves that you've never actually been on a boat.

Small cheap yellow banana boats have ice cooler size lockers without
access below decks.

Obviously,
the line would attach to the same spot you're saying to use with a
shackle, so one could cut it from the same "safe location" that you
could remove the shackle.

See above

The difference, of course, is that with rope
you can cut where ever is convenient, with 100% certainly, and with
a shackle there's a fair chance you'll need time and tools to get it
undone.

If I have a knife... I have a spike. Your slipping Jeff, what kind of
sailor does not have a razor sharp marlin spike knife combo?

I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)

Joe



- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Anchor Chain
 

"Joe" wrote in message


If I have a knife... I have a spike. Your slipping Jeff,
what kind of
sailor does not have a razor sharp marlin spike knife
combo?


I keep an old butter knife in my anchor locker and I've
never tied the bitter end off.

Scotty

Anchor Chain
 

On Feb 24, 2:24 pm, "Scotty" w@u wrote:
"Joe" wrote in message

If I have a knife... I have a spike. You're slipping Jeff,
what kind of sailor does not have a razor sharp marlin spike knife

combo?

http://cgi.ebay.com/RARE-Vintage-Mar...QQcmdZViewItem

I keep an old butter knife in my anchor locker and I've
never tied the bitter end off.

Scotty

Anchor Chain
 

* Joe wrote, On 2/24/2007 1:34 PM:

....
Its clear you learned all you know by reading old West Marine catalogs
you found while dumpster diving.

His condo has 8 dumpsters

His condo IS 8 dumpsters.


First, the is no guarantee you have a windlass, and a windlass does
not imply a chain stopper. And the chain stopper will not
automatically stop the chain from running out.

IMO if you have more than 15 ft of chain you need a windlass.

I'm sorry to hear of your infirmity, Joe. Most people are able to
handle 20 to 30 feet of chain by hand. Admittedly I like having a
windlass on my primary anchor, but the secondary has 20 feet of chain
and I have no problem at all recovering that by hand.


....


The difference, of course, is that with rope
you can cut where ever is convenient, with 100% certainly, and with
a shackle there's a fair chance you'll need time and tools to get it
undone.

If I have a knife... I have a spike. Your slipping Jeff, what kind of
sailor does not have a razor sharp marlin spike knife combo?

Any knife can cut a line under tension. With the setup I describe
there would be some flexibility on where you were able to cut.
However, once a chain is under tension there is only one option on
where you have to undo the shackle; on my boat that would require
lying on deck and hanging over into the locker to reach the shackle.
And odds are, it would twisted around and impossible to reach.

Sorry Joe, you can argue that on some boats this is not a big issue,
but on many it is.



I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)

Right Joe, you confessed that 15 feet of chain is so heavy that you
need a windlass!

Anchor Chain
 

On Feb 24, 2:55 pm, Jeff wrote:
* Joe wrote, On 2/24/2007 1:34 PM:

...

Its clear you learned all you know by reading old West Marine catalogs
you found while dumpster diving.

His condo has 8 dumpsters

His condo IS 8 dumpsters.



First, the is no guarantee you have a windlass, and a windlass does
not imply a chain stopper. And the chain stopper will not
automatically stop the chain from running out.

IMO if you have more than 15 ft of chain you need a windlass.

I'm sorry to hear of your infirmity, Joe. Most people are able to
handle 20 to 30 feet of chain by hand.

can you pull it up if it's buried under a 600 lb rock? Break a plow
that 3 ft under?

Admittedly I like having a
windlass on my primary anchor, but the secondary has 20 feet of chain
and I have no problem at all recovering that by hand.

...

The difference, of course, is that with rope
you can cut where ever is convenient, with 100% certainly, and with
a shackle there's a fair chance you'll need time and tools to get it
undone.

If I have a knife... I have a spike. Your slipping Jeff, what kind of
sailor does not have a razor sharp marlin spike knife combo?

Any knife can cut a line under tension. With the setup I describe
there would be some flexibility on where you were able to cut.
However, once a chain is under tension there is only one option on
where you have to undo the shackle; on my boat that would require
lying on deck and hanging over into the locker to reach the shackle.
And odds are, it would twisted around and impossible to reach.

Sorry Joe, you can argue that on some boats this is not a big issue,
but on many it is.



I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)

Right Joe, you confessed that 15 feet of chain is so heavy that you
need a windlass!

Not for the weight of the chain Jeff.

BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in 1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if needed.

Joe

Anchor Chain
 

* Joe wrote, On 2/24/2007 7:10 PM:
On Feb 24, 2:55 pm, Jeff wrote:
....
IMO if you have more than 15 ft of chain you need a windlass.
I'm sorry to hear of your infirmity, Joe. Most people are able to
handle 20 to 30 feet of chain by hand.

can you pull it up if it's buried under a 600 lb rock? Break a plow
that 3 ft under?


What does this have to do with chain? Are you claiming that with 15
feet of chain its easy but with 20 feet its impossible?

In any case, I don't rely on the windlass to break out of normal
situations, like deep mud. I shorten up as much as possible, and then
let the boat bob around for a few minutes. It alway works for me.
If it were fouled on a 600 pound rock I'd probably burn out my
windlass trying to haul it.

....

I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)
Right Joe, you confessed that 15 feet of chain is so heavy that you
need a windlass!

Not for the weight of the chain Jeff.

Feel free to back pedal all you want.


BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in 1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if needed.

Good for you. It probably weighs more than my windlass and all my
ground tackle put together. Its probably appropriate for your type of
boat.

Anchor Chain
 

On Feb 24, 7:14 pm, Jeff wrote:
* Joe wrote, On 2/24/2007 7:10 PM:

On Feb 24, 2:55 pm, Jeff wrote:
...
IMO if you have more than 15 ft of chain you need a windlass.
I'm sorry to hear of your infirmity, Joe. Most people are able to
handle 20 to 30 feet of chain by hand.

can you pull it up if it's buried under a 600 lb rock? Break a plow
that 3 ft under?

What does this have to do with chain? Are you claiming that with 15
feet of chain its easy but with 20 feet its impossible?

In any case, I don't rely on the windlass to break out of normal
situations, like deep mud. I shorten up as much as possible, and then
let the boat bob around for a few minutes. It alway works for me.
If it were fouled on a 600 pound rock I'd probably burn out my
windlass trying to haul it.

...

I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)
Right Joe, you confessed that 15 feet of chain is so heavy that you
need a windlass!

Not for the weight of the chain Jeff.

Feel free to back pedal all you want.

Back Pedal? It's that last 15-20 ft of chain thats a bitch around
here, the rest is easy, you wanna bust your back go ahead, IIl just
rachet in



BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in 1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if needed.

Good for you. It probably weighs more than my windlass

only about 180 pounds

and all my
ground tackle put together.


Its probably appropriate for your type of
boat.

Yeah thats why I bought it. 1/2" doubler plate on deck and Monel
strike plate on the hull next to the hawse pipe to keep the flukes
from scratching the steel. Underneath in the locker is a 1" bow stem
plate with a shackle for the bitter end.

Joe

Anchor Chain
 

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com..
..

BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in
1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if
needed.


Why would you want to do that?

SV

Anchor Chain
 

On Feb 23, 10:34 am, Jeff wrote:

What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?

ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to
hold the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


The trough bolted padeye with backing plate is correct.
A 10' tail is correct.
Seveal passes of small stuff (line) between the padeye and link of
chain is correct.
That way ya can cut it loose and let it fly when your bow is about to
be taken to the deep or put a purchas on that 10' tail if need to
monkey with it whilts under a strain.

Anchor Chain
 

* Joe wrote, On 2/24/2007 10:05 PM:
....
I do not like the ideal of tying off a chain with rope to the padeye.
Then again, I have the strength of steel:0)
Right Joe, you confessed that 15 feet of chain is so heavy that you
need a windlass!
Not for the weight of the chain Jeff.
Feel free to back pedal all you want.

Back Pedal? It's that last 15-20 ft of chain thats a bitch around
here, the rest is easy, you wanna bust your back go ahead, IIl just
rachet in

As I've said, I have a windlass on my primary. However, 15 feet of my
chain is only 15 pounds, so if that's too heavy for you, you have my
condolences. Of course, much depends on the size of the anchor
attached to that chain.

I'll stand by my point. There are lots of boats the should have 20
feet of chain but don't need a windlass.




BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in 1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if needed.
Good for you. It probably weighs more than my windlass

only about 180 pounds

and all my
ground tackle put together.

Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250 feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds. On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your windlass is a bit
more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight catamaran and
you have a heavy steel boat.

Anchor Chain
 

"Scotty" w@u wrote in message
...

"Joe" wrote in message
oups.com..
.

BTW I have a windlass and a cat head. A Navy #1 built in
1901. Cast
iron hot galvanized dipped. It will pull the bow under if
needed.


Why would you want to do that?

To sink the boat, silly. What a question . . .

Max

Anchor Chain
 

"Bob" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Feb 23, 10:34 am, Jeff wrote:

What is the best way to tie off the anchor chain in the chain locker?

ignore the amateurs that advise shackling the chain to the
boat. It should be attached with a length of line, strong enough to
hold the boat, accessible enough to cut with a knife if need be.


The trough bolted padeye with backing plate is correct.
A 10' tail is correct.
Seveal passes of small stuff (line) between the padeye and link of
chain is correct.
That way ya can cut it loose and let it fly when your bow is about to
be taken to the deep or put a purchas on that 10' tail if need to
monkey with it whilts under a strain.

Can't verify this story, but after a few decades of boating, I believe
anything is possible.

Some folks I know who regularly charter in the BVI reported that their
charter company--Sunsail, I believe--told them that they once received a
cell phone call from one of their customers under way. The query concerned
how they were supposed to continue anchoring, after two nights of being on
the hook. When asked what they meant, the customer responded that they'd
"used" both anchors and were plumb clean out of 'em. Should they head back
to the charter base for some more, or just stick to moorings?

Okay, sounds implausible, but after what I saw on my one trip to the BVI, I
tend to believe the story.

Max

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250 feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds. On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your windlass is a bit
more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight catamaran and
you have a heavy steel boat.

I wouldn't call a boat that's 85% iron oxide steel. I'd call it a rust
bucket. After all rust is the normal state of steel. Plain old iron
lasts longer. But even a rusty steel boat is preferable to a multihull.

You nut cases who have catamarans or trimarans are as big a joke as your
boats when it comes to anchoring. I've watched you fools and how you
operate.
You motor your boat to the exact spot you want it to be. Then you let go
the chain with such rattling and general commotion that you wake up the
dead. Then you fall way back right out of the spot you wanted to be and
right on top of the leeward anchored boat. The concept that dropping a
hundred feet of chain results in your falling back almost a hundred feet
seems to be beyond your understanding. Then you lean over the bows and
attach a foolish bridle affair using a crude, most often rusty
galvanized chain hook. Then you let out a little more chain so the load
is taken on the bridle contraption. The entire affair is absurd and
laughable. There should be separate anchorages for multihull types.
Such ugly and ungainly vessels wreck an anchorage for those who operated
monohulls and know how to anchor. A real cruising monohull sails into
the anchorage and drops a hook so quietly that unless you're on deck
looking around you never know another boat has anchored until you stick
your head up and look around. I've yet to NOT be aware of a multihull
anchoring as the process is usually accompanied by deafening noise,
revving engines, shouting back and forth by the crew, air pollution,
frequent dragging and inconsiderate spacing.

Wilbur Hubbard

Anchor Chain
 

* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/25/2007 4:15 PM:

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250 feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds. On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your windlass is a bit
more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight catamaran and
you have a heavy steel boat.

I wouldn't call a boat that's 85% iron oxide steel. I'd call it a rust
bucket. After all rust is the normal state of steel. Plain old iron
lasts longer. But even a rusty steel boat is preferable to a multihull.

You nut cases who have catamarans or trimarans are as big a joke as your
boats when it comes to anchoring. I've watched you fools and how you
operate.
You motor your boat to the exact spot you want it to be. Then you let go
the chain with such rattling and general commotion that you wake up the
dead. Then you fall way back right out of the spot you wanted to be and
right on top of the leeward anchored boat. The concept that dropping a
hundred feet of chain results in your falling back almost a hundred feet
seems to be beyond your understanding. Then you lean over the bows and
attach a foolish bridle affair using a crude, most often rusty
galvanized chain hook. Then you let out a little more chain so the load
is taken on the bridle contraption. The entire affair is absurd and
laughable. There should be separate anchorages for multihull types. Such
ugly and ungainly vessels wreck an anchorage for those who operated
monohulls and know how to anchor. A real cruising monohull sails into
the anchorage and drops a hook so quietly that unless you're on deck
looking around you never know another boat has anchored until you stick
your head up and look around. I've yet to NOT be aware of a multihull
anchoring as the process is usually accompanied by deafening noise,
revving engines, shouting back and forth by the crew, air pollution,
frequent dragging and inconsiderate spacing.

That's pathetic, Neal. What happened to you? Did you lose the banana
boat in the hurricanes? This sorry display just reeks of jealousy.
Get a boat, even a Tangerine would be better than nothing.

Anchor Chain
 

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/25/2007 4:15 PM:

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250 feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds. On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your windlass is a
bit more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight catamaran
and you have a heavy steel boat.

I wouldn't call a boat that's 85% iron oxide steel. I'd call it a
rust bucket. After all rust is the normal state of steel. Plain old
iron lasts longer. But even a rusty steel boat is preferable to a
multihull.

You nut cases who have catamarans or trimarans are as big a joke as
your boats when it comes to anchoring. I've watched you fools and how
you operate.
You motor your boat to the exact spot you want it to be. Then you let
go the chain with such rattling and general commotion that you wake
up the dead. Then you fall way back right out of the spot you wanted
to be and right on top of the leeward anchored boat. The concept that
dropping a hundred feet of chain results in your falling back almost
a hundred feet seems to be beyond your understanding. Then you lean
over the bows and attach a foolish bridle affair using a crude, most
often rusty galvanized chain hook. Then you let out a little more
chain so the load is taken on the bridle contraption. The entire
affair is absurd and laughable. There should be separate anchorages
for multihull types. Such ugly and ungainly vessels wreck an
anchorage for those who operated monohulls and know how to anchor. A
real cruising monohull sails into the anchorage and drops a hook so
quietly that unless you're on deck looking around you never know
another boat has anchored until you stick your head up and look
around. I've yet to NOT be aware of a multihull anchoring as the
process is usually accompanied by deafening noise, revving engines,
shouting back and forth by the crew, air pollution, frequent dragging
and inconsiderate spacing.

That's pathetic, Neal. What happened to you? Did you lose the banana
boat in the hurricanes? This sorry display just reeks of jealousy.
Get a boat, even a Tangerine would be better than nothing.

It's easy to tell when you're a winner. When somebody is so embarrassed
by the truth that they resort to the politics of personal destruction in
a lame attempt at misdirection so they can avoid the issue, that's when
you know you're a winner. S'matter Jeffies? Hit way too close to home?
Thought I was watching you the last time you anchored last summer?
Bwahahahahhahhahahah!

Wilbur Hubbard respectfully.

Anchor Chain
 

* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/25/2007 5:53 PM:

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
* Wilbur Hubbard wrote, On 2/25/2007 4:15 PM:

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250 feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds. On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your windlass is a
bit more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight catamaran
and you have a heavy steel boat.

I wouldn't call a boat that's 85% iron oxide steel. I'd call it a
rust bucket. After all rust is the normal state of steel. Plain old
iron lasts longer. But even a rusty steel boat is preferable to a
multihull.

You nut cases who have catamarans or trimarans are as big a joke as
your boats when it comes to anchoring. I've watched you fools and how
you operate.
You motor your boat to the exact spot you want it to be. Then you let
go the chain with such rattling and general commotion that you wake
up the dead. Then you fall way back right out of the spot you wanted
to be and right on top of the leeward anchored boat. The concept that
dropping a hundred feet of chain results in your falling back almost
a hundred feet seems to be beyond your understanding. Then you lean
over the bows and attach a foolish bridle affair using a crude, most
often rusty galvanized chain hook. Then you let out a little more
chain so the load is taken on the bridle contraption. The entire
affair is absurd and laughable. There should be separate anchorages
for multihull types. Such ugly and ungainly vessels wreck an
anchorage for those who operated monohulls and know how to anchor. A
real cruising monohull sails into the anchorage and drops a hook so
quietly that unless you're on deck looking around you never know
another boat has anchored until you stick your head up and look
around. I've yet to NOT be aware of a multihull anchoring as the
process is usually accompanied by deafening noise, revving engines,
shouting back and forth by the crew, air pollution, frequent dragging
and inconsiderate spacing.

That's pathetic, Neal. What happened to you? Did you lose the banana
boat in the hurricanes? This sorry display just reeks of jealousy.
Get a boat, even a Tangerine would be better than nothing.

It's easy to tell when you're a winner. When somebody is so embarrassed
by the truth that they resort to the politics of personal destruction in
a lame attempt at misdirection so they can avoid the issue, that's when
you know you're a winner.

Right, that's exactly what you tried to do, that's why it was so pathetic!

S'matter Jeffies? Hit way too close to home?

Apparently any real boating discussion is too painful for you.

Thought I was watching you the last time you anchored last summer?

While you were hitchhiking down Rt. 1?
Bwahahahahahahahaahhaa!

Anchor Chain
 

That's telling him, Wilbur. Worse yet is when they run their
gens all night. What kind of boat do you have? Any pics of
her?

Scotty



"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in
message ...

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Let's see: I have 50 feet of chain, a 35# Delta, 250
feet of line,
Lewmar windlass. That comes out to about 140 pounds.
On the other
bow the Delta with rode is about 35 pounds. So your
windlass is a bit
more than all my gear. But then, I have a lightweight
catamaran and
you have a heavy steel boat.

I wouldn't call a boat that's 85% iron oxide steel. I'd
call it a rust
bucket. After all rust is the normal state of steel. Plain
old iron
lasts longer. But even a rusty steel boat is preferable to
a multihull.

You nut cases who have catamarans or trimarans are as big
a joke as your
boats when it comes to anchoring. I've watched you fools
and how you
operate.
You motor your boat to the exact spot you want it to be.
Then you let go
the chain with such rattling and general commotion that
you wake up the
dead. Then you fall way back right out of the spot you
wanted to be and
right on top of the leeward anchored boat. The concept
that dropping a
hundred feet of chain results in your falling back almost
a hundred feet
seems to be beyond your understanding. Then you lean over
the bows and
attach a foolish bridle affair using a crude, most often
rusty
galvanized chain hook. Then you let out a little more
chain so the load
is taken on the bridle contraption. The entire affair is
absurd and
laughable. There should be separate anchorages for
multihull types.
Such ugly and ungainly vessels wreck an anchorage for
those who operated
monohulls and know how to anchor. A real cruising monohull
sails into
the anchorage and drops a hook so quietly that unless
you're on deck
looking around you never know another boat has anchored
until you stick
your head up and look around. I've yet to NOT be aware of
a multihull
anchoring as the process is usually accompanied by
deafening noise,
revving engines, shouting back and forth by the crew, air
pollution,
frequent dragging and inconsiderate spacing.

Wilbur Hubbard

Anchor Chain
 

"Scotty" w@u wrote in message
...
That's telling him, Wilbur. Worse yet is when they run their
gens all night. What kind of boat do you have? Any pics of
her?

Scotty


I'm the proud owner of an Allied Seawind 32 and of course I have
pictures of her. She's a real beauty.

Wilbur Hubbard

Anchor Chain
 

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in message
...

"Scotty" w@u wrote in message
...
That's telling him, Wilbur. Worse yet is when they run their
gens all night. What kind of boat do you have? Any pics of
her?

Scotty


I'm the proud owner of an Allied Seawind 32 and of course I have pictures
of her. She's a real beauty.

Will you be editing Ellen out of those photos?

Max

Anchor Chain
 

"Wilbur Hubbard" wrote in

I'm the proud owner of an Allied Seawind 32 and of course
I have
pictures of her. She's a real beauty.

Well, we'all'd like to see some.

SV

Anchor Chain
 

Wilbur Hubbard wrote:


Wilbur Hubbard


Would that be Wilbur Hubbard the scientologist or Wilbur Hubbard played
by Karl Malden in "Beyond the Poseidon Adventure"?

Cheers
Marty

Anchor Chain
 

"Martin Baxter" wrote in message
...
Wilbur Hubbard wrote:


Wilbur Hubbard


Would that be Wilbur Hubbard the scientologist

Wasn't that L. Ron Hubbard?

Max

Anchor Chain
 

Maxprop wrote:

"Martin Baxter" wrote in message
...
Wilbur Hubbard wrote:


Wilbur Hubbard


Would that be Wilbur Hubbard the scientologist

Wasn't that L. Ron Hubbard?

A relative perhaps?

Cheers
Martin