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Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source?
It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? Ours is such a water heater, but when we bought the boat there was a small but insideous coolant leak which could cause engine overheating if pushed a bit. The leak was discovered to be at the engine-to-water heater hookup fitting, so we disconnected the water heater loop entirely. Never miss it, and your point about toxic material flowing through one's water heater is valid, even though we never gave it a thought. Good post. Max |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
I think Seaward made two versions, SS and Aluminum.
I have a galvanic isolator, and use the non-toxic anti-freeze. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Ole Thom's been drinking anti-freeze for years. Hasn't affected him one bit.
"Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
I'm not as thunk as some people drink I am.
Gilligan wrote: Ole Thom's been drinking anti-freeze for years. Hasn't affected him one bit. "Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C6F809.74F4EB40 Content-Type: text/html; charset=iso-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable X-Google-AttachSize: 2521 !DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN" HTMLHEAD META http-equiv=Content-Type content="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1" META content="MSHTML 6.00.5730.11" name=GENERATOR STYLE/STYLE /HEAD BODY bgColor=#ffffff DIVFONT face=Arial size=2Ole Thom's been drinking anti-freeze for years. Hasn't affected him one bit./FONT/DIV BLOCKQUOTE dir=ltr style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px" DIV"Scout" <A "scoutsails@ho tmail.com/A> wrote in message A href="news:GoqdnSNR0sPBtKLYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@comcas t.com"news:GoqdnSNR0sPBtKLYnZ2dnUVZ_rWdnZ2d@comca st.com/A.../DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source?/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. /FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage!/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. /FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. /FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2Scout/FONT/DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV DIVFONT face=Arial size=2/FONT /DIV/BLOCKQUOTE/BODY/HTML ------=_NextPart_000_0073_01C6F809.74F4EB40-- |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Uninstalling and analyzing this heater is a good thing. Further
inspection may just exonerate the design. If you look closely at the bottom tubes in this picture, http://sports.webshots.com/photo/291...97509592UoBucA you'll notice that they enter the tank through two very loose sleeves. Check out the ample clearance between the coil ends and the sleeves they pass through. I need to find a way to determine if what appears to be an exageration of sloppy pipe fitting is in fact a clever design intended to drain any chemicals away from contact with fresh water should the tubing leak for any reason. It is possible that the design is a tube inside a tube, with the outter tube being an non-pressure path out of the unit. If that's the case, I can see why the hot water heat is so slow to come up to temperature, but the added safety feature would be worth the wait. As an experiment, I'm thinking of suspending the tank with the tank face parallel to the floor, so that any drop of water in the tank will drip from the boiler drain. Then, I would feed a stream of water into the sleeve and see if it eventually begins to flow from the other side. If it does, and if it never flows from the boiler drain, then I can conclude that there exists an isolating compartment, which is vented to atmosphere, between the anti-freeze filled tubing the fresh water tank. If I find that to be true, I'll connect to the engine again without losing sleep. Scout Jeff wrote: I think Seaward made two versions, SS and Aluminum. I have a galvanic isolator, and use the non-toxic anti-freeze. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Can you ask Seaward?
"Scout" wrote in message oups.com.. .. Uninstalling and analyzing this heater is a good thing. Further inspection may just exonerate the design. If you look closely at the bottom tubes in this picture, http://sports.webshots.com/photo/291...97509592UoBucA you'll notice that they enter the tank through two very loose sleeves. Check out the ample clearance between the coil ends and the sleeves they pass through. I need to find a way to determine if what appears to be an exageration of sloppy pipe fitting is in fact a clever design intended to drain any chemicals away from contact with fresh water should the tubing leak for any reason. It is possible that the design is a tube inside a tube, with the outter tube being an non-pressure path out of the unit. If that's the case, I can see why the hot water heat is so slow to come up to temperature, but the added safety feature would be worth the wait. As an experiment, I'm thinking of suspending the tank with the tank face parallel to the floor, so that any drop of water in the tank will drip from the boiler drain. Then, I would feed a stream of water into the sleeve and see if it eventually begins to flow from the other side. If it does, and if it never flows from the boiler drain, then I can conclude that there exists an isolating compartment, which is vented to atmosphere, between the anti-freeze filled tubing the fresh water tank. If I find that to be true, I'll connect to the engine again without losing sleep. Scout Jeff wrote: I think Seaward made two versions, SS and Aluminum. I have a galvanic isolator, and use the non-toxic anti-freeze. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message
. .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? I do, but I don't drink the hot water. Would washing dishes and showering with it be a problem? If there were a leak, wouldn't you soon discover it when your engine water gets low? SBV It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Gilligan" wrote in message ... Ole Thom's been drinking anti-freeze for years. Hasn't affected him one bit. Once you've built up a tolerance to the stuff, it's fine. I've moved on to Canadian whisky--now that stuff is seriously toxic. Max |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
I've sailed on many boat with these systems and it is hard to complain
about hot water. Perhaps the second loop could be used to cycle water through a solar hot water coil--the penalty would only be the electricity to circulate it. Without an engine driven hot water system, you are stuck with AC coils at the dock, or a huge electric penalty when underway. The WhisperGen stirling engine offers hot water as a by product. I don't think that uses coolant. As someone else mentioned. It would be wise not to drink hot water using such a system. Heat up any drinking water separately. I don't think diluted coolant will kill you if you only shower in it or wash dishes with it. To avoid corrosion an isolation transformer is the best option. Be sure not to tie the grounds on both sides together. Incoming circuit ground goes to the transformer case, the other goes to your vessel ground, such that no DC current can pass from shore power to the vessel. With such a system you can crank up all AC appliances and forget about corrosion. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
What fun is that?
Scout "Scotty" wrote in message . .. Can you ask Seaward? "Scout" wrote in message oups.com.. . Uninstalling and analyzing this heater is a good thing. Further inspection may just exonerate the design. If you look closely at the bottom tubes in this picture, http://sports.webshots.com/photo/291...97509592UoBucA you'll notice that they enter the tank through two very loose sleeves. Check out the ample clearance between the coil ends and the sleeves they pass through. I need to find a way to determine if what appears to be an exageration of sloppy pipe fitting is in fact a clever design intended to drain any chemicals away from contact with fresh water should the tubing leak for any reason. It is possible that the design is a tube inside a tube, with the outter tube being an non-pressure path out of the unit. If that's the case, I can see why the hot water heat is so slow to come up to temperature, but the added safety feature would be worth the wait. As an experiment, I'm thinking of suspending the tank with the tank face parallel to the floor, so that any drop of water in the tank will drip from the boiler drain. Then, I would feed a stream of water into the sleeve and see if it eventually begins to flow from the other side. If it does, and if it never flows from the boiler drain, then I can conclude that there exists an isolating compartment, which is vented to atmosphere, between the anti-freeze filled tubing the fresh water tank. If I find that to be true, I'll connect to the engine again without losing sleep. Scout Jeff wrote: I think Seaward made two versions, SS and Aluminum. I have a galvanic isolator, and use the non-toxic anti-freeze. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! Just a thought, but Bart's recent comment about galvanic isolation got me thinking. Maybe I'll get that RedDot heater that Ole Thom has mentioned, remove the anti-freeze loop from my fresh water supply, and use those lines to supply aux heat in the cabin. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Scout wrote:
How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? Prob'ly everyone with a water heater. It's extremely common. It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. True, unless you use non-toxic anti-freeze. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! That's a good idea. It's also a good idea to make it part of your regular maintenance checks, insure no crossover between the systems. In most cases, the water tank is at a different level tha the engine coolant receiver, so it should be fairly easy to make a test for any leak between the two. For another, many boats have their pressure water (potable water) system 'on' most of the time, so any leak would pump drinking water into the engine coolant loop while the engine was idle. I get an effective check on ours every time I test the engine coolant level (ie every time I start the engine). Bart wrote: I've sailed on many boat with these systems and it is hard to complain about hot water. Dang skippy! To avoid corrosion an isolation transformer is the best option. Be sure not to tie the grounds on both sides together. Incoming circuit ground goes to the transformer case, the other goes to your vessel ground, such that no DC current can pass from shore power to the vessel. With such a system you can crank up all AC appliances and forget about corrosion. An excellent idea for more reasons than just this one. Isolating the grounds can be a life saver. Unfortunately these are rather expensive little bits of gear... our boat does not currently have one, but it's on the list. Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scotty" wrote in message
. .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? I do, but I don't drink the hot water. Would washing dishes and showering with it be a problem? If there were a leak, wouldn't you soon discover it when your engine water gets low? Scotty, It's like having a non-smoking section in a one room house. If something were to leak into the hot water, it's in your fresh water system. |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"DSK" wrote in message
. .. Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? Prob'ly everyone with a water heater. It's extremely common. It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. True, unless you use non-toxic anti-freeze. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! That's a good idea. It's also a good idea to make it part of your regular maintenance checks, insure no crossover between the systems. It's those precious moments between the birth of a leak and the discovery of it that worry me! |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Scout wrote:
It's those precious moments between the birth of a leak and the discovery of it that worry me! Good point. But don't stay up at night worrying about it, I mean there's all kinds of chemicals & junk in your drinking water already. Anti-freeze is just one more... only causes a slight amount of dain bramage DSK |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
Personal experience?? :-) Sorry, couldn't help it.
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "DSK" wrote in message . .. Scout wrote: It's those precious moments between the birth of a leak and the discovery of it that worry me! Good point. But don't stay up at night worrying about it, I mean there's all kinds of chemicals & junk in your drinking water already. Anti-freeze is just one more... only causes a slight amount of dain bramage DSK |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message . .. That's a good idea. It's also a good idea to make it part of your regular maintenance checks, insure no crossover between the systems. It's those precious moments between the birth of a leak and the discovery of it that worry me! Do you lie awake at night worrying about it? Scotty |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message . .. "Scotty" wrote in message . .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? I do, but I don't drink the hot water. Would washing dishes and showering with it be a problem? If there were a leak, wouldn't you soon discover it when your engine water gets low? Scotty, It's like having a non-smoking section in a one room house. If something were to leak into the hot water, it's in your fresh water system. yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
DSK wrote: Scout wrote: How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? Prob'ly everyone with a water heater. It's extremely common. It is a very thin line separating that toxic material from your drinking water supply. The closed engine coolant loop may reach 15 psi when hot, and could easily outmatch the force in the fresh water system, especially if you run dry or turn off your on-demand pump for any reason. A pin hole or a crack in the hw heat exchanger could have deadly results. True, unless you use non-toxic anti-freeze. In my work as a boiler tech, we were never permitted to use toxic anti-freeze in boilers that produced domestic hot water (summer-winter boiler packages). I've replaced tens of those coils due to leakage! That's a good idea. It's also a good idea to make it part of your regular maintenance checks, insure no crossover between the systems. In most cases, the water tank is at a different level tha the engine coolant receiver, so it should be fairly easy to make a test for any leak between the two. For another, many boats have their pressure water (potable water) system 'on' most of the time, so any leak would pump drinking water into the engine coolant loop while the engine was idle. I get an effective check on ours every time I test the engine coolant level (ie every time I start the engine). Bart wrote: I've sailed on many boat with these systems and it is hard to complain about hot water. Dang skippy! To avoid corrosion an isolation transformer is the best option. Be sure not to tie the grounds on both sides together. Incoming circuit ground goes to the transformer case, the other goes to your vessel ground, such that no DC current can pass from shore power to the vessel. With such a system you can crank up all AC appliances and forget about corrosion. How are you getting DC from the dock anyway? Charlies walmart charger? An excellent idea for more reasons than just this one. Isolating the grounds can be a life saver. Unfortunately these are rather expensive little bits of gear... our boat does not currently have one, but it's on the list. Check out the one you use ggod, I've seen Galvanic isolators cause more stray current then they prevent. Joe Fresh Breezes- Doug King |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scotty" wrote in message
. .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. "Scotty" wrote in message . .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? I do, but I don't drink the hot water. Would washing dishes and showering with it be a problem? If there were a leak, wouldn't you soon discover it when your engine water gets low? Scotty, It's like having a non-smoking section in a one room house. If something were to leak into the hot water, it's in your fresh water system. yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV I hear our water is radon contaminated. The Reading Prong, doncha know. Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scotty" wrote in message . .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. "Scotty" wrote in message . .. "Scout" wrote in message . .. How many here have a hot water heater that works with the engine's coolant system as a heat source? I do, but I don't drink the hot water. Would washing dishes and showering with it be a problem? If there were a leak, wouldn't you soon discover it when your engine water gets low? Scotty, It's like having a non-smoking section in a one room house. If something were to leak into the hot water, it's in your fresh water system. yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV I don't trust those built in water tanks either. I bring those 5 gallon igloo jugs. |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
What about propane flash heaters?
Instant hot water from the cold water line. |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
|
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
DSK wrote: To avoid corrosion an isolation transformer is the best option. Be sure not to tie the grounds on both sides together. Incoming circuit ground goes to the transformer case, the other goes to your vessel ground, such that no DC current can pass from shore power to the vessel. With such a system you can crank up all AC appliances and forget about corrosion. An excellent idea for more reasons than just this one. Isolating the grounds can be a life saver. Unfortunately these are rather expensive little bits of gear... our boat does not currently have one, but it's on the list. Fresh Breezes- Doug King Prices have dropped. I got one slightly banged up for $250 and a dual voltage one for around $500 that I intend to set up for both US and European power. |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
The USCG frowns on them. The danger is
propane leaks. I've read they just warm the water and it never gets hot. I think the concept is reasonable. However it would not be my choice. Gilligan wrote: What about propane flash heaters? Instant hot water from the cold water line. |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message ... yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV I hear our water is radon contaminated. The Reading Prong, doncha know. We have good, clean water down here. -- Scott Vernon Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_ |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
-- "Krusty Morgan" stupidly wrote .. You should show more respect towards Lisa, even if she doesn't really warrant it. You are married to her, after all. BB are you ever going to say something that makes sense? |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scotty" wrote in message
. .. "Scout" wrote in message ... yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV I hear our water is radon contaminated. The Reading Prong, doncha know. We have good, clean water down here. That's the spirit! Scout |
Bart, anti-freeze and drinking water - smart to disassociate?
"Scout" wrote in message ... "Scotty" wrote in message . .. "Scout" wrote in message ... yes, I realize that BUT would it be harmful if you didn't drink it. I don't drink the water from my water tank. I bring water from home, in jugs. SBV I hear our water is radon contaminated. The Reading Prong, doncha know. We have good, clean water down here. That's the spirit! yeah, that too. -- Scott Vernon Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_ |
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