Scout wrote:
Scotty wrote:
"Scout" wrote in message
ps.com...
Cool!

I'm guessing you're not getting enough of this kind of
thing
at work? You're putting it to a hydro test too, right?

DSK

Probably won't do a hydro, but, I think I will replace the
existing 125
psi relief valve with 50 psi or less. I'm just not
thrilled with the
widow-maker under my bunk. The tank may be safe at 125#,
I'm just
saying. . .

Yours heats from the engine also, right? A word of caution,
the water gets VERY hot. At least mine does, there's no temp
control.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

While I have it apart, might as well take care of that problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY
Scout

Oopsie in the drawing, instead of 2 tees, I'll use a 3-way bypass valve
so 100% of the flow can be diverted around the tank coil. I'll post
pics and details if anyone is interested.
Scout

"Scout" wrote in message
ups.com...


While I have it apart, might as well take care of that
problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY
Scout


You don't heat off the batteries, do you? I figure the temp
needs to get high off the engine because once you shut down
it needs to stay hot on it's own for a while. Mine stays
warm overnight, at least.

Scotty

Scotty wrote:
"Scout" wrote in message
ups.com...

Yours heats from the engine also, right? A word of
caution,
the water gets VERY hot. At least mine does, there's no
temp
control.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

While I have it apart, might as well take care of that
problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY


Katy, what did she do, besides ride my coat tail?

SBV

Yes but she rides it extremely well!
Go Katy Go!
Scout

Scotty wrote:
"Scout" wrote in message
ups.com...


While I have it apart, might as well take care of that
problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY
Scout


You don't heat off the batteries, do you? I figure the temp
needs to get high off the engine because once you shut down
it needs to stay hot on it's own for a while. Mine stays
warm overnight, at least.

Scotty

The hw heater element draws 1500 watts and my inverter is good for 1000
watts only. So at anchor I'd run the diesel if I really need hot water.
I'm thinking of adding a fan coil unit for "free" heat when availble or
so I can run the ac and the fan coil to dehumidify when it's really
wet.
Scout

Scout wrote:
Scotty wrote:
"Scout" wrote in message
ups.com...
Yours heats from the engine also, right? A word of
caution,
the water gets VERY hot. At least mine does, there's no
temp
control.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_
While I have it apart, might as well take care of that
problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY

Katy, what did she do, besides ride my coat tail?

SBV

Yes but she rides it extremely well!
Go Katy Go!
Scout

Scotty's really crabby today....,ist be the weather....

Scout wrote:
Scout wrote:
Scotty wrote:
"Scout" wrote in message
ps.com...
Cool!

I'm guessing you're not getting enough of this kind of
thing
at work? You're putting it to a hydro test too, right?

DSK

Probably won't do a hydro, but, I think I will replace the
existing 125
psi relief valve with 50 psi or less. I'm just not
thrilled with the
widow-maker under my bunk. The tank may be safe at 125#,
I'm just
saying. . .

Yours heats from the engine also, right? A word of caution,
the water gets VERY hot. At least mine does, there's no temp
control.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_

While I have it apart, might as well take care of that problem. Thanks
Scotty and Katy!
http://sports.webshots.com/photo/270...97509592nUedvY
Scout

Oopsie in the drawing, instead of 2 tees, I'll use a 3-way bypass valve
so 100% of the flow can be diverted around the tank coil. I'll post
pics and details if anyone is interested.
Scout

Man, I really screwed up that drawing. Ok, where it says cold, it's
really hot. These lines are the hot engine coolant, not the cold and
hot water lines. The important thing is it will work, just don't trust
me to make the as-builts.
Scout

Scotty wrote:
You don't heat off the batteries, do you? I figure the temp
needs to get high off the engine because once you shut down
it needs to stay hot on it's own for a while. Mine stays
warm overnight, at least.

It should stay hot for 24 hours, but as it turns out, the Seaward is
not particularly good. The PS review came out a month after mine was
"sealed in" - there were several that were quite hot the next day.

Running the engine without load does heat it up, but not much. Mine
doesn't get over 150 degrees unless were really running hard under
load - then its goes up to 165. Fortunately, we don't need much hot
water in the summer.

I don't think I would ever consider running off the batteries - They
would be so depleted enough I'd have to then run the engine, so why
not do both at the same time.

"Jeff" wrote in message
. ..
Scotty wrote:
You don't heat off the batteries, do you? I figure the
temp
needs to get high off the engine because once you shut
down
it needs to stay hot on it's own for a while. Mine
stays
warm overnight, at least.

It should stay hot for 24 hours, but as it turns out, the
Seaward is
not particularly good. The PS review came out a month
after mine was
"sealed in" - there were several that were quite hot the
next day.

Running the engine without load does heat it up, but not
much. Mine
doesn't get over 150 degrees unless were really running
hard under
load - then its goes up to 165. Fortunately, we don't
need much hot
water in the summer.

I don't think I would ever consider running off the
batteries - They
would be so depleted enough I'd have to then run the
engine, so why
not do both at the same time.

I guess my main problem is I don't run the motor long
enough.

SBV

Scout,

A Sea Story:---- I had my Heater out and stored in the Pilothouse, to
make room for the Shaft removal, to replace the "Thrust Bearing. I'd
like to make the suggestion that you look at your engine/shaft coupling
before you add to much to that heater.

My heater was in the Port Side Cockpit Looker; forward against the cabin
bulkhead. I had a 29 ft boat, but for a man to disconnect that coupling,
next was necessary for a man to lay down on the floor of the cockpit to
reach down to disconnect that coupling. Couldn't be done with the Heater
in place.

Look it over before your start modification.

Good luck!! By the way; I tied off the engine's cooling water to the
heater for my "Red Dot" heater which really was a blessing.


http://community.webtv.net/tassail/ILLDRINKTOTHAT

Jeff wrote:
Scotty wrote:
You don't heat off the batteries, do you? I figure the temp
needs to get high off the engine because once you shut down
it needs to stay hot on it's own for a while. Mine stays
warm overnight, at least.

It should stay hot for 24 hours, but as it turns out, the Seaward is
not particularly good. The PS review came out a month after mine was
"sealed in" - there were several that were quite hot the next day.

Running the engine without load does heat it up, but not much. Mine
doesn't get over 150 degrees unless were really running hard under
load - then its goes up to 165. Fortunately, we don't need much hot
water in the summer.

I don't think I would ever consider running off the batteries - They
would be so depleted enough I'd have to then run the engine, so why
not do both at the same time.


I'm not surprised at the stand-by losses of the Seaward hw heaters.
There isn't much insulation there. Since I have it apart, I was toying
with the idea of insulating the space between the tank and the sheet
metal box with foam insulation. All of the working parts are on the
front face of the tank, and I'd leave that with the fiberglass it came
with. I might even put some rubatex insulation outside the box because
I don't want to run the engine unless I have to. Hate the noise.
Scout