Good link on batteries. Discusses AGM vs Gel, vs Flooded
batteries.

http://www.vonwentzel.net/Battery/

"Bart" wrote in message
oups.com...
Good link on batteries. Discusses AGM vs Gel, vs Flooded
batteries.

http://www.vonwentzel.net/Battery/

I purchased 2 Optima Blue Tops (dual purpose - starting and deep cycle) for
my boat. The manuf. stresses the need to manage the charging voltage to a
max of 13.8 with a max current flow of 1 amp. I have 2 trickle chargers I
bought for my bikes, but I try to follow spec recs. at almost any cost. Any
tips on quality chargers that can be user regulated?
Scout

A good charge controller is an important part of
keeling your batteries alive. I have not had much
luck in that area. My charger died, then I fixed it,
then it died, then it came back to life, then the controller
died. It has been frustrating to me. I'm thinking about
getting a second charger, just to keep the batteries
topped off if the first one dies again.

Scout wrote:
"Bart" wrote in message
oups.com...
Good link on batteries. Discusses AGM vs Gel, vs Flooded
batteries.

http://www.vonwentzel.net/Battery/

I purchased 2 Optima Blue Tops (dual purpose - starting and deep cycle) for
my boat. The manuf. stresses the need to manage the charging voltage to a
max of 13.8 with a max current flow of 1 amp. I have 2 trickle chargers I
bought for my bikes, but I try to follow spec recs. at almost any cost. Any
tips on quality chargers that can be user regulated?
Scout

"Bart" wrote
|A good charge controller is an important part of
| keeling your batteries alive. I have not had much
| luck in that area. My charger died, then I fixed it,
| then it died, then it came back to life, then the controller
| died. It has been frustrating to me. I'm thinking about
| getting a second charger, just to keep the batteries
| topped off if the first one dies again.


Duh! Forget the charge controllers. Get one of those little suction thingies that floats
balls. It tells you specific gravity on each cell in the battery. You can easily tell if you have
a bad cell. If all the cells are good then the whole battery is good. If one is bad then the whole
battery is done, finished, kaput. People make it way too complicated. I don't even have a battery
but I know more about them than you do. So sad! I'm a girl. Your a man. Your a duh case.

Cheers.
Ellen

Scout wrote:

I purchased 2 Optima Blue Tops (dual purpose - starting and deep cycle) for
my boat. The manuf. stresses the need to manage the charging voltage to a
max of 13.8 with a max current flow of 1 amp. I have 2 trickle chargers I
bought for my bikes, but I try to follow spec recs. at almost any cost. Any
tips on quality chargers that can be user regulated?


I was going to say just don't worry about it, but just to be sure I
checked a few specs. My big Heart 2000 has a complex table for
different types and temps, showing, for example, the float voltage for
an AGM at 70 degrees. When I checked the small Truecharge 10 I found,
however, that the voltage for and AGM was the same as Gel, and higher
than the Optima recommendations. In other places, I found that the
Truecharge 10 was not recommended for AGM at all. The Truecharge 20,
however, had and AGM setting, and its float voltage was appropriate.

In general, I didn't find any specs for the "el cheapo" chargers. My
advice would be to go to the Xantrex site, and download the manuals
for various chargers, and see if they suit your needs.

On the other hand, it seems like a good charger costs significantly
more than the batteries, so it might not actually be cost effective to
optimize the life of the batteries. My approach is to do a reasonable
job of maintaining them, and hope they won't die too often. My house
bank (Trojan 6V flooded) lasted 6 years, and my two Optima Red Top
starting batteries have gone 3 years now with an EchoCharge echoing
the flooded regime during the summer. Actually, I was surprised to
find that one had not received any charge for most of the summer
(flawed setup) and yet had enough power to start its engine a number
of times. They have survived the winter well with the solar panels
receiving a modest amount of light through the shrink wrap.

"Dave" wrote
| Pity you can't figure out the question before running off at the mouth with
| the wrong answer.

Well excussssssssse me! But *wrong answer* is in the eye of the beholder. There's
only one way to tell how your battery's working. That's measuring specific gravity of
the acid. If all the balls float it's good. If they sink it's bad. It's so simple. It's sad
people can't figure it out.....


Cheers,
Ellen

OzOne wrote |
| Do you know what's killing the chargers?
| Pull one apart and chech the circuit board..my bet is salt corrosion.
| Worth pulling any new one apart and spraying the CB with a protectant
| sealer available from any good electronics part supplier...you may
| need a cleaner first.
| I've done Pcs and Laptops and plenty of equipment not strictly
| designed for a marine environment this way and the last without
| problem.
| Heck, even some 'marine' radios do NOT have sealer on components but
| rely solely on waterproof casings....that unfortunately breathe.


Get serious. You sure like to spout off at the mouth. It's not hard to see you don't know squat.
I bet Gilligan would straighten you out... What you imagine isn't fact!

Cheers,
Ellen

"Dave" wrote
| Q.E.D.

What does Q.E.D. mean?

Cheers,
Ellen

"She's" dumb as a post. :-)

--
"j" ganz @@
www.sailnow.com

OzOne wrote in message ...
On Sat, 21 Oct 2006 19:13:19 -0400, "Ellen MacArthur"
scribbled thusly:


"Dave" wrote
| Q.E.D.

What does Q.E.D. mean?

Cheers,
Ellen

It's what I should have placed at the end of my 2nd last post!


Oz1...of the 3 twins.

I welcome you to crackerbox palace,We've been expecting you.

"Charlie Morgan" wrote in message

Walmart sells a very good "smart charger" for well under $50. It even
senses
sulfation and will desulfate if needed.

Walmart!!!?????...... Bwahahahahaahahahahahaahahaaaaa!!!!

Good Grief!!!

CM-