Fuel line smell
 

The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. Does anyone have
any advice about these or other metals for diesel fuel lines or other fuel
line material that will not end up smelling in a few years?

Thanks in advance,
Mark

plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

May I suggest taking it to a motor boat forum.

Thank you for your consideration of those of us who
wish to discuss sailing here on this sailing forum..

Capt. Neal


"DSK" wrote in message . ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN


"DSK" wrote in message .. .
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

Capt. Neal=AE wrote:
Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN

Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy
outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my
filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop
enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing,
same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration
coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen
set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully
sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and
never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway.

Joe








"DSK" wrote in message
.. .
Crap'n Neal=AE wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you
can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

wrote:

Capt. Neal® wrote:

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN


Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds.

What is the capacity of the engine and the RPM? What is the engine room
size? 15 seconds... not likely.

Cheers

Perhaps I have a better sense of smell than many since
I never smoked but I have NEVER been aboard any
diesel boat that did not smell of diesel fuel.

CN

wrote in message ups.com...

Capt. Neal® wrote:
Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN

Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy
outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my
filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop
enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing,
same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration
coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen
set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully
sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and
never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway.

Joe








"DSK" wrote in message
.. .
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you
can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

12hp 7.5KW 1800 RPM's, Between the gen and engine... attached to the
fly wheel is a cast iron squirrel cage type blower. It's about 6" wide
and approx24" across. It all dumps in a 10 inch duct and it piped out
behind the wheelhouse.

15 sec.

Joe

Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult. The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Crap'n Neal® wrote:
Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what.

Wrong, as usual.

If the fuel system has no leaks (and why should it have any, other than
stupidity and/or incompetence) then where is the diesel smell going to
come from?

Your statement just shows that you don't know much, and don't have any
friends who know better.

DSK

Hello Capt. Neal,

It is in a sail boat but like most sail boats it's size there are auxiliary
engines. But I will try a motor boat forum to get a few more opinions.
Thanks for the idea!

In the past with my old, small sailboat I would pick up my mooring under
sail at times. Why bother to start the engine when you do not need to and I
did enjoy the challenge. Now I keep my new to me boat at my dock and I have
found it very hard to dock under sail. Maybe you can give me a few
pointers? I will say I love the handling under power with the wide spaced
twin engines. Kind of makes me feel like I am cheating.

Mark


"Capt. Neal®" wrote in message
...
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

May I suggest taking it to a motor boat forum.

Thank you for your consideration of those of us who
wish to discuss sailing here on this sailing forum..

Capt. Neal


"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just
forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass
through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I guarantee it is impossible to change fuel filters and
clean fuel separators without spilling at least a few
drops.

What, you never heard of "cleaning up"?

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...42006181AIYIHF

If you have a proper installation, it will be easily possible to
minimize & contain any spilled fuel.


... Also, all diesel tanks must have a vent and there
is a smell emanating from the vent

which is outside the boat.

... not to mention very
small leaks on the plumbing going to and from the injectors.

It is fully possible to have a system that does not leak. In some cases
where the injector system has a linkage that slightly weeps a bit of
fuel, it is also fully possible to clean it up regularly.



Diesel fuel is dirty and smelly and boats that contain
diesel engines smell like diesel and that's a fact.

Ours doesn't. None of our friends boats do either. So it is not a fact.

The *only* reason for a boat to smell like diesel is sloppiness.... a
sloppy installation that leaks, or or sloppy maintenance, or lack of
cleanliness.

Your expertise includes all three.

DSK

Why is that Dave? Motorboats have masts too.

CN


"Dave" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:25:38 -0500, Capt. Neal® said:

My mistake, since it's a sailboat I guess you sorta squeak in
under the umbrella.

The "just forward of the mast" in the original post might have been a clue.

I don't see any drips, runs or errors but that white peg board???

Ugly! What's with that?

CN


"DSK" wrote in message . ..
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I guarantee it is impossible to change fuel filters and
clean fuel separators without spilling at least a few
drops.

What, you never heard of "cleaning up"?

http://community.webshots.com/photo/...42006181AIYIHF

If you have a proper installation, it will be easily possible to
minimize & contain any spilled fuel.


... Also, all diesel tanks must have a vent and there
is a smell emanating from the vent

which is outside the boat.

... not to mention very
small leaks on the plumbing going to and from the injectors.

It is fully possible to have a system that does not leak. In some cases
where the injector system has a linkage that slightly weeps a bit of
fuel, it is also fully possible to clean it up regularly.



Diesel fuel is dirty and smelly and boats that contain
diesel engines smell like diesel and that's a fact.

Ours doesn't. None of our friends boats do either. So it is not a fact.

The *only* reason for a boat to smell like diesel is sloppiness.... a
sloppy installation that leaks, or or sloppy maintenance, or lack of
cleanliness.

Your expertise includes all three.

DSK

On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 16:08:08 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote this crap:

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).


Bull****. My boat doesn't smell. Most boats don't.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

How could anyone like you with nostrils burned
out by the white powder smell anything anyway?

CN

"Horvath" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 16:08:08 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote this crap:

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).


Bull****. My boat doesn't smell. Most boats don't.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

You are probably right. . .

CN

"Dave" wrote in message ...
On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 18:36:25 -0500, Capt. Neal® said:

Why is that Dave? Motorboats have masts too.

Well, one alternative might have been to ask, before making an ass of
yourself by assuming that someone in a sailing group marking the position of
his fuel tank with reference to the mast must have a power boat.

I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"plugster" wrote in message
ink.net...
Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original
hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has
USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell
at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that
I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult.
The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same
system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just
forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass
through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray
rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than
6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I
am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home
Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is
more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the
specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install
properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into
place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration,
and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This
takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the
whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler
job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP
air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint
connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time &
trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad
joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"plugster" wrote in message
ink.net...
Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original
hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has
USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell
at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that
I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult.
The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same
system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just
forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass
through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray
rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than
6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I
am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home
Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is
more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the
specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install
properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into
place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration,
and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This
takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the
whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler
job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP
air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint
connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time &
trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad
joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

On Wed, 8 Dec 2004 20:10:20 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote this crap:


How could anyone like you with nostrils burned
out by the white powder smell anything anyway?



I never take drugs, dumbass. I don't even take the pain pills
prescribed by my doctor, dumbass.






Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

"Scott Vernon" wrote...
I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.

That's interesting. I have not heard of self-sealing hose.

Scout wrote:
I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.

(blush) my "expertise"?!?

Anyway there is not a fire-o-matic valve that I know of approved for
marine use... I'd guess the issue is corrosive environment + vibration,
as you mention.


To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.

Flares are a lot easier for disconnecting & reconnecting, too... but
they are a bit more work to make up the first time and have a lower
tolerance for error.

I got yelled at by our engine guru for using flare connections, he
claimed they're "not approved" for marine fuel... not sure if this is
true, the ABS thinks they're OK (or did 15 years ago) and I don't have
current ABYC specs.

It did take a heck of a lot of work and a spoiled first attempt to fit
in our new fuel supply line, using 1/2"OD seamless copper tubing. There
was one leak that was very persnickety to find & fix... diesel tends to
run along the bottom of the lines and drip far away from the actual leak.

One problem with boats that have a persistent diesel smell, even once
the leak has been fixed and the engine & pan cleaned up, is that the
stuff finds it's way into remote pockets of bilge and grows nasty grunge.

DSK

"DSK" wrote
(blush) my "expertise"?!?

My license limits my work to stationary equipment only ; )
Scout

Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

rubber

"Scout" wrote in message
...
Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a
softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing
(#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that
will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a
flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and
ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

didn't think rubber held up to diesel

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
rubber

"Scout" wrote in message
...
Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a
softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing
(#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that
will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a
flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and
ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

"DSK" wrote in message
.. .
"Scott Vernon" wrote...
I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines.
it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a
fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.

That's interesting. I have not heard of self-sealing hose.

Well, that's what he told me. A google search turns up nothing, except
that A-1 is fire retardant.

On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 22:48:41 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout


Mine is gold plated. But I only want the best. :)





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

"Horvath" wrote in message ...
Mine is gold plated.

Trying to come on to Gaynz?

CN

PLONK!


wrote in message ...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 19:22:08 -0500, Capt. Neal® wrote:


"Horvath" wrote in message ...
Mine is gold plated.

Trying to come on to Gaynz?

CN

Watch out Horvath, I think you're making Neal JEALOUS!!!

BB

Wrong! PLONK to me is the sound it makes when
I delete a particular post. I don't want to put
you in the kill-file because I would be missing
out on a lot of the humor you provide by your
attempts to act like you actually know something
about anything at all.

CN

wrote in message ...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 20:46:36 -0500, Capt. Neal® wrote:

PLONK!


wrote in message ...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 19:22:08 -0500, Capt. Neal® wrote:


"Horvath" wrote in message ...
Mine is gold plated.

Trying to come on to Gaynz?

CN

Watch out Horvath, I think you're making Neal JEALOUS!!!

BB

Clue: When you PLONK someone, it means you are putting them in your kill filter.
Plonk is supposed to represent the sound of something being thrown in the
garbage. I realize you are a complete computer novice. I hope this helps you to
avoid further embarrassment, as right now, virtually EVERYBODY, including your
friends, are laughing at you.

BB

BBob you idiot, PLONK is an acronym for 'Put Loser ON Killfile''.

--
wrote ...
Plonk is supposed to represent the sound of something being thrown
in the
garbage.

BBob

it got you on the line, twice.



--
wrote ...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 21:14:02 -0500, Capt. Neal®
wrote:

Wrong! PLONK to me is the sound it makes when
I delete a particular post.

You need to say PLONK so you get some feeling of imagined power
everytime you
delete a post? How ****ing wimpy is THAT?

BB

wrote in message ...
Someone may have "reverse engineered" an acronym out of it later, but that's not
what it means.

BB

That must be so because any person who spoke English
would say "Put Loser In Kill File"

That would be Plinkf

Capt. Neal® wrote:

wrote in message ...

Someone may have "reverse engineered" an acronym out of it later, but that's not
what it means.

BB


That must be so because any person who spoke English
would say "Put Loser In Kill File"

That would be Plinkf

Hmmm. Doesn't really do it does it?

Cheers

PLONK ! PLONK ! PLONK !


--
wrote ...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 21:21:06 -0500, "Scott Vernon"
wrote:

BBob you idiot, PLONK is an acronym for 'Put Loser ON Killfile''.

BB is completely wrong. It's a term that originated in the usenet
newsgroup
talk.bizarre, and just as I said, it referes to the sound of someone
falling
into a kill file.

Someone may have "reverse engineered" an acronym out of it later,
but that's not
what I means.

BBob

You better get that seen to!

Cheers

Scott Vernon wrote:

PLONK ! PLONK ! PLONK !


--
wrote ...

On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 21:21:06 -0500, "Scott Vernon"

wrote:

BBob you idiot, PLONK is an acronym for 'Put Loser ON Killfile''.

BB is completely wrong. It's a term that originated in the usenet

newsgroup

talk.bizarre, and just as I said, it referes to the sound of someone

falling

into a kill file.

Someone may have "reverse engineered" an acronym out of it later,

but that's not

what I means.

BBob

But it feels so good.


"Nav" wrote in message
...
You better get that seen to!

Cheers

Scott Vernon wrote:

PLONK ! PLONK ! PLONK !


--
wrote ...

On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 21:21:06 -0500, "Scott Vernon"

wrote:

BBob you idiot, PLONK is an acronym for 'Put Loser ON Killfile''.

BB is completely wrong. It's a term that originated in the usenet

newsgroup

talk.bizarre, and just as I said, it referes to the sound of
someone

falling

into a kill file.

Someone may have "reverse engineered" an acronym out of it later,

but that's not

what I means.

BBob

From;
http://www.acronymfinder.com/af-quer...cronym=plonk&F
ind=Find


Acronym Definition
PLONK Person Leaving Our Newsgroup (kill filtered)
PLONK Person with Little Or No Knowledge
PLONK Pewien Lamer Opuscil Nasza Kompanie (Polish)
PLONK Put Lamer On Kill Filter (USENET)







"Dave" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 21:21:06 -0500, "Scott Vernon"

said:


BBob you idiot, PLONK is an acronym for 'Put Loser ON Killfile''.

Close, Scotty, but no cigar. It's an acronym for "Person Leaving Our
Newsgroup Killfiled."

Dave
(who has been around Usenet for more years than he cares to
remember)