Fuel line smell
 

The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old. The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line). Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration. Does anyone have
any advice about these or other metals for diesel fuel lines or other fuel
line material that will not end up smelling in a few years?

Thanks in advance,
Mark

plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

May I suggest taking it to a motor boat forum.

Thank you for your consideration of those of us who
wish to discuss sailing here on this sailing forum..

Capt. Neal


"DSK" wrote in message . ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6 years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN


"DSK" wrote in message .. .
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

Capt. Neal=AE wrote:
Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN

Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy
outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my
filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop
enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing,
same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration
coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen
set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully
sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and
never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway.

Joe








"DSK" wrote in message
.. .
Crap'n Neal=AE wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you
can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

wrote:

Capt. Neal® wrote:

Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN


Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds.

What is the capacity of the engine and the RPM? What is the engine room
size? 15 seconds... not likely.

Cheers

Perhaps I have a better sense of smell than many since
I never smoked but I have NEVER been aboard any
diesel boat that did not smell of diesel fuel.

CN

wrote in message ups.com...

Capt. Neal® wrote:
Those who can 'afford' an inboard engine are plagued
with diesel oil smell no matter what. (Unless they use
gasoline).

CN

Not so Capt. A well laid out fuel system and properly fitted boat will
not smell at all.

Take RedCloud for instance. I have a superior Lister 2 cly AIR COOLED
gen set that preforms a total exchange of air in my engine room every
15 seconds. You can have everything running at full speed and enjoy
outside tempatures in the engine room. I hang catch pans under my
filter housing for changing filters and removing water. Not a drop
enters my bilge. My fuel lines are all either copper piping or tubing,
same for all my gauges. I run my tubing properly to included vibration
coils so I never have stress or viberation related leaks. When the gen
set is running we are usually at anchor, I leave the mizzen up fully
sheeted in and fully reefed, that way we always face the breeze and
never smell exhaust. And both my exhaust are under water underway.

Joe








"DSK" wrote in message
.. .
Crap'n Neal® wrote:
I have to wonder what this discussion has to do with sailing.

Many people can afford boats with inboard diesels. We know you
can't but
try not to be bitter.

DSK

12hp 7.5KW 1800 RPM's, Between the gen and engine... attached to the
fly wheel is a cast iron squirrel cage type blower. It's about 6" wide
and approx24" across. It all dumps in a 10 inch duct and it piped out
behind the wheelhouse.

15 sec.

Joe

Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult. The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King