Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult. The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than 6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration, and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time & trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"plugster" wrote in message
ink.net...
Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original
hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has
USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell
at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that
I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult.
The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same
system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just
forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass
through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray
rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than
6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I
am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home
Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is
more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the
specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install
properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into
place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration,
and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This
takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the
whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler
job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP
air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint
connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time &
trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad
joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.


--
Scott Vernon
Plowville Pa _/)__/)_/)_


"plugster" wrote in message
ink.net...
Thanks for the information. I will check to see if the original
hose was
rated for diesel fuel.

Do you have a good source for diesel rated hose? West Marine has
USCG and
NMMA approved hose but I would like to make sure there is no smell
at all.
Maybe I should go with the refrigeration grade copper. I think that
I can
make the run with one piece per side but it will be very difficult.
The
current hose is very well mounted and I think I can use the same
system
again.

I have never been on a boat that did not smell of Diesel that was so
equipped. I think I have a chance with metal lines.

Thanks
Mark

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..
plugster wrote:
The diesel fuel tank on my boat is in the center of my boat just
forward
of
the mast and the engines are in the back so the fuel lines pass
through
the
cabin. There are no fuel leaks, the lines are made from a gray
rubber
and
smell strongly of the diesel fuel. The boat is 6 years old.

I'd bet the fuel lines are not an ABS-ABYC approved type for fuel.
Proper fuel line is expensive, but it lasts considerably more than
6
years.

... The runs are
about 45 feet and they do a fair amount of twists and turns. I
am
thinking
about replacing them with soft metal tubing, maybe copper (Home
Depot
water
tubing) or 3003-0 aluminum (aircraft grade fuel line).

Don't use aluminum on a boat. It corrodes far too quickly and is
more
difficult to make up joints. Ask me how I know!

Refrigeration grade copper tubing (type L or M IIRC but check the
specs)
is acceptable as fuel line... but it's difficult to install
properly.
Unless you can rip out all obstacles, you have to snake it into
place
and then mount it properly (it will work harden with vibration,
and then
leak no matter what) and make up the terminal connections. This
takes a
lot of time and careful work.


...Of course I will
leave a short flexible part near the engine for vibration.

You might as well go with the more expensive fuel hose for the
whole
run. I'd recommend that, and I just did a somewhat shorter simpler
job
on our trawler this past spring. Of course I work with tubing (HP
air &
hydraulics, among other things) almost daily so the joint
connections
were not a problem.

It'll cost more in dollars for material but take far less time &
trouble
to install, and will be far less likely to leak due to bad
joining.

Fresh Breezes- Doug King

On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

rubber

"Scout" wrote in message
...
Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a
softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing
(#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that
will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a
flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and
ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

didn't think rubber held up to diesel

"Scott Vernon" wrote in message
...
rubber

"Scout" wrote in message
...
Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a
softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout

"Horvath" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 11:49:32 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing
(#1 &
#2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that
will
shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's
expertise
in this situation though.
To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a
flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and
ferrule)
types,
which tend to leak with vibration.
Scout


If you're worried about fire protection, and you want leak-proof
metal. I would use stainless steel braided aircraft hose.

It's also much easier to install than a rigid tube.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

On Thu, 09 Dec 2004 22:48:41 GMT, "Scout"
wrote this crap:

Isn't the braiding just for preventing bursting and slicing of a softer
inner material? what material is used for the inside lining?
Scout


Mine is gold plated. But I only want the best.





Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now!

"Horvath" wrote in message ...
Mine is gold plated.

Trying to come on to Gaynz?

CN

"Scott Vernon" wrote...
I was told by my surveyor to use type A-1 hose for fuel lines. it's
supposed to 'melt' (or something like that) and seal itself in a fire
, thus preventing fuel from feeding the fire.

That's interesting. I have not heard of self-sealing hose.

Scout wrote:
I've installed many a fuel line on boilers with soft copper tubing (#1 & #2
fuel). There are also *fused* valves available (fire-o-matic) that will shut
off fuel supply in an intense heat situation. I'll defer to Doug's expertise
in this situation though.

(blush) my "expertise"?!?

Anyway there is not a fire-o-matic valve that I know of approved for
marine use... I'd guess the issue is corrosive environment + vibration,
as you mention.


To the OP, if you're going with metal tubing, I'd recommend a flared
connection, or at least stay away from compression (nut and ferrule) types,
which tend to leak with vibration.

Flares are a lot easier for disconnecting & reconnecting, too... but
they are a bit more work to make up the first time and have a lower
tolerance for error.

I got yelled at by our engine guru for using flare connections, he
claimed they're "not approved" for marine fuel... not sure if this is
true, the ABS thinks they're OK (or did 15 years ago) and I don't have
current ABYC specs.

It did take a heck of a lot of work and a spoiled first attempt to fit
in our new fuel supply line, using 1/2"OD seamless copper tubing. There
was one leak that was very persnickety to find & fix... diesel tends to
run along the bottom of the lines and drip far away from the actual leak.

One problem with boats that have a persistent diesel smell, even once
the leak has been fixed and the engine & pan cleaned up, is that the
stuff finds it's way into remote pockets of bilge and grows nasty grunge.

DSK