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#1
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Windlass Electrical Connection
What Nav is saying is there will be a 10% drop across the wire itself. This is
on top of the serious drop caused by the 100 Amp load on the house bank. Of course, the engine will likely be running, so the load might be partially offset, depending on how the alternator behaves at low rpm. BTW, my system has the windlass and inverter (i.e. microwave) off the house bank. A few times I've noticed the affect of the voltage drops, especially if it goes below 12, but I've never been "spiked." "DSK" wrote in message ... Nav wrote: The voltage drop will be at the motor, not the house battery end. If you have a 10% voltage drop at the motor, there will be a noticable drop at the battery terminals too. Ever notice the way an ammeter swings when you turn the starter? Hint: very few cars wire the ammeter sensor leads to the starter terminals. DSK |
#2
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Windlass Electrical Connection
an isolating relay on the charging line should do it (i.e., normally closed
switch in the charging line that opens whenever the windlass is powered. "Jeff Morris" wrote {snip} There are other issues, like how do you prevent 80 amps from going down the charger wire if you raise the anchor when the engine is running? |
#3
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Windlass Electrical Connection
In article , Ray Cullum
wrote: I am considering adding a electric windlass to my boat and I would like some opinions on the best way to connect to the electrical system. The windlass will be approximately 40 feet from my house battery bank which is 700amps. It has been suggested to me to place a small battery up close to the windlass so you don't have to run heavy battery cable such a distance and sustain the power loss. Small cable could be run to the battery strictly for recharging. You've seen the other replies and the pros/cons. For a different perspective, have you considered hydraulics? Keep the motor near the battery bank and run the hydraulic lines to the winch. You can get 12V DC motors & pumps, run a pump off your main engine via a magnetic clutch or even a 110V AC motor via invertor. This is fishing boat tech, not yacht, so of course it may not be as elegant but it will work much more reliably. I think 12V DC anchor winches are inventions designed to kill batteries and fail when most needed. PDW |
#4
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Windlass Electrical Connection
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#5
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Windlass Electrical Connection
Good suggestion! A family friend died when an auto battery
exploded. -- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Joe" wrote in message om... (Ray Cullum) wrote in message ... I am considering adding a electric windlass to my boat and I would like some opinions on the best way to connect to the electrical system. The windlass will be approximately 40 feet from my house battery bank which is 700amps. It has been suggested to me to place a small battery up close to the windlass so you don't have to run heavy battery cable such a distance and sustain the power loss. Small cable could be run to the battery strictly for recharging. Thanks for the help. Ray Cullum S/V FROLIC Weight is not an issue. Having an extra battery just for a winch is a good ideal as long as you can properly ventilate the compartment. Ive seen more diesel boats blow up due to battery gas than any other reason. Joe |
#6
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Windlass Electrical Connection
On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:44:58 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz"
wrote this crap: Good suggestion! A family friend died when an auto battery exploded. Liar. You have no friends. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
#7
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Windlass Electrical Connection
Good one Horass, you're getting better.
-- "j" ganz @@ www.sailnow.com "Horvath" wrote in message ... On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 21:44:58 -0700, "Jonathan Ganz" wrote this crap: Good suggestion! A family friend died when an auto battery exploded. Liar. You have no friends. Pathetic Earthlings! No one can save you now! |
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