On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 16:46:48 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 14:29:03 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 10:36:14 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 07:13:22 -0500, Poco Loco
wrote:

On Mon, 24 Feb 2014 04:02:05 -0500, "Mr. Luddite" wrote:

On 2/24/2014 1:18 AM, wrote:
On Sun, 23 Feb 2014 23:27:06 -0500, KC wrote:

On 2/23/2014 11:51 AM, Poco Loco wrote:
...in my house is this one:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yrvU4mAszI

I despise plumbing.


They are expensive, but for one or two quick connections take a look at
"shark bite" fittings... They work with copper or plastic, great for
places where sweating a pipe or a wrench are not easy to get to...

Most of the plumbing down here is plastic.
Florida water eats metal



I have no idea what the current codes are but I know PVC and other types
of plastic water lines used in the supply side for water used for
consumption remains controversial. Copper water pipes are naturally
anti-microbial preventing bacteria growth within them. PVC is not.

Due to it's anti-microbial and anti-fouling properties, copper has been
used since the 18th century as an anti-fouling agent on boat hulls. The
USS Constitution's hull is covered by copper sheathing which was first
implemented by the British Royal Navy. For years ablative, copper based
bottom paint has been used on both large ships and recreational boats
but there is now a push to ban it's use due to environmental concerns.


Copper is what's sticking out of my wall under the toilet, therefore copper will be used. I'm not
changing any plumbing lines, that's for damn sure!

May not have to change anything. Turned the valve handle in a ways and noticed the leak reduced.
Turned it in a tad more and haven't had a drop come out in more than 12 hours.

Yippee.

They do make a compression angle stop that is pretty easy to put over
the pipe if there is enough sticking out after you cut the old one
off. If it is just leaking around the stem, you should be able to
replace the packing if the cap nut will move and you can get the
handle off. They sell a foot or so in a bubble pack at any
hardware/home store.
.

They (Taiwan) also make a puller for the compression nut and ring so I wouldn't have to cut the
pipe. A friend, who also does plumbing on the side, told me they don't work very well, but I can
always take it back to Home Depot if it doesn't work.

But, I'm up to about 20 hours and still no leak.

If the compression fitting is not leaking, and the ring is undamaged,
you can usually just screw the new angle stop on without changing the
ring or nut. One turn of teflon tape will let you tighten it up
without galling the threads. (this is not a sealant, just a
lubricant).
I am starting to prefer the teflon paste.

Those are the two biggest 'ifs' in the whole operation! Well, there's one more - if the compression
nut will thread onto the new valve.