I have to agree with Gary. A proper crimp causes a gas-tight connection.
Over time, solid-state diffusion sets in, making the connection a
Zen-like "one with everything" affair.
The problem with solder is that it wicks. "Who cares?" you may ask.
The answer is that the junction where "tinned" and "untinned" meets,
(often under the insulation), is where the cable will break under
vibration...always...unless some really good strain relief is
in place.
If it *is* under the insulation, you'll never see it until the sparks fly.
Molten solder will drip into, or on to, the things you can least afford
to have shorted. Plus, soldering is basically a chemical process
....if not done at the proper temps, it's not a good connection,
i.e., a cold-solder joint. Solder little wires, crimp big ones.
Norm B


On Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:35:26 GMT, Gary Schafer wrote:

I wouldn't solder them. Asking for trouble there. If you should have a
loose bolt connection on the lug all the solder could melt and open
the connection letting the cable fall onto something you don't want it
to come in contact with.

Second, If the solder wicks up the cable and makes it stiff you could
break a battery post by the leverage the stiff cable provides. If not
breaking it off it could break the seal around the post and it will
leak acid and constantly corrode your connection. Sometimes it doesn't
take much to break the seal.

I have one of those "hit it with a hammer" type crimpers but they are
only a last resort. I used to carry it on the boat in case I had to
make an emergency repair. They only make a dent in one small part of
the lug and leave the sides loose. Even if you do multiple spots you
still can't get a good connection.

Otherwise I always took the cables to a cable supplier to get them
crimped properly. Most times they will rent out a crimper if you need
to do it on the boat.

Boat owners and West marine have crimpers and are usually glad to
crimp lugs on for you. I have use West marines nico press crimper and
it does a very nice job on cable lugs.

Regards
Gary



On Tue, 27 Apr 2004 13:00:00 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine grade
with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool will
only do up to #4 gage.

I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have
worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff.

These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach to.
I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about.

How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs??

I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and off
grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable end
rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were
using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack of
control, etc.).

I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but they
are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred
dollars).

I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for
NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I may
try a test and see if it would work)

Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased, mail
order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions