On 1/17/2013 2:44 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"iBoaterer" wrote in message
...
In article , åke says...

"Meyer" wrote in message
eb.com...
On 1/17/2013 1:37 PM, Sir Gregory Hall, Esq· wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 16 Jan 2013 14:12:48 -0800 (PST), "*e#c"
wrote:

On Jan 16, 3:56 pm, [email protected] wrote:
Is draining the block in an I/O enough to keep it from cracking, or
could
there
still be water pockets in it that could be enough to crack it? It
seems
they
should be designed so that can't happen, but are they? This
particular
one
is a
140 hp straight four cylinder Mercury 1976-1979 model.

No, it is not.

When "winterizing", try hooking a shop Vac in reverse (if yours has
that option. My 29 dollar one does.) to the upper end of the rad hose
and blow air through the engines water passages while the petcocks are
open. It should get all the water out. Works for my V6 Buick. I have
those old " log " style manifolds.

Hook up may vary, but I hope you get the idea.

====

If you want to be really safe, warm up the engine and then run -100
antifreeze through the raw water system until it comes out the
exhaust. I've winterized a lot of engines that way and never had a
problem.



Not a good idea to use 100% antifreeze. Here's why:

http://www2.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

There is a difference between -100 and 100%.


And that would be?

The thing is, most RV antifreeze is only good to -50, so I'd kind of
like to know too!



The best I've seen is good to -60 degrees F at a 60% solution of
propylene glycol and water. How they get the claimed -100 degrees
F I don't know.


http://www.xydatasource.com/xy-showd...234654&dsid=67


It's a marketing tool... They sell you a guarantee they assume you will
never be able to call them on. If you do manage to get your car into
-100, they will probably just pay it and go on saying they are
"guaranteed to -100) LOL!