On Tue, 24 Apr 2012 21:28:47 -0400, Wayne.B
wrote:

Well everyone else has had a shot at this so I'll dip my oar in the
water also. Rick is on the right track with his mold approach but
I'd do it differently. I'd buy a sheet of heavy duty mylar which is
available at any art supply store or sailmaker. Next I'd coat one
side of the mylar with wax or mold release. After filling the pits
with Devcon/epoxy/Colloidal Silica or whatever, I'd wrap the shaft
tightly with the mylar (wax side down of course) and try to squeeze
out any excess epoxy as I wrapped. Leave the mylar on until cured by
wrapping it with masking tape or some such. If done properly, this
will minimize the high spots and the amount of sanding to be done.

The sanding should be done with long strips of emery cloth or wet and
dry sandpaper, using them like a shoe shine cloth wrapped around the
shaft at about 180 degrees. Change the angle frequently to avoid
making an oval shape. I have successfully dressed the shafts on
anchor windlasses in this way after they've become dinged/distorted.

Good thinking, Wayne. May I add a "mod" or two?

Your post triggered a memory. Saran wrap makes a great "mold release",
actually better than mold wax. It could be wrapped around the shaft
first.

Heavy duty mylar sounds good, as well as thin metal, aluminum or maybe
better stainless. Pre-formed by working around the shaft before the
epoxy.

How about however many engine piston ring compressors needed to "wrap"
the mylar/metal sheeting? You know, those things that squeeze the
rings down on a piston so you can slide it into the cylinder?

This method will leave a slight ridge where the mylar/metal overlap,
but should be a problem.

I agree 100% with the "shoe shine cloth" method of finishing.

Rick