Hi, all,
from another, earlier:
I can't quite tell what it looks like above the pitting.
Can you extend the threaded pipe higher where the packing gland goes on
and just make the packing gland higher so you are at a smooth spot ?
It looks like you have the room from the pictures. Have a pipe made
and attach it to the existing pipe with a coupling.
Yes, I might use either both a coupling and a nipple, or a machined-to-fit
single piece to extend the ~3" higher. Either one could have a zerk fitted
before installation, which would help.
However, the higher it gets, the more contortionistic (it's already
interesting) it becomes to renew the gland, later, given the big square
plates in the way (see some of the photos to see what I took off to get to
it)...
and
There are several possible cures.
They used to, and likely still do, make a "dripless" gland packing
that was some sort of soft plastic substance what you packed the
bearing with. It "squished" enough to make the gland waterproof and
seemed to stay in place for years. West Marine used to sell it, and of
course it was available elsewhere. Used in a rudder shaft gland as
apposed to a propeller shaft gland it might be satisfactory.
The clay stuff can be murder, later. Seems like grease is a better
solution. In one of the forums I came across a very detailed look at
packing glands, packing materials, and the like; the clay stuff has some
serious drawbacks...
They make a black impregnated packing that the seal shop that I
patronize tells me will last for years even on a pitted shaft. I used
it on a pitted propeller shaft on a power boat and a trip from
Singapore to Phuket, Thailand didn't show any leakage.
That might be of interest. Do you have a product name? I think I may have
the pits problem solved, one way or another, but not having to do the
packing any more often than absolutely necessary is appealing to me,
regardless of the solution I choose. The packing I've been using is, in
fact, black, and is teflon impregnated. Of course, the shaft rotates (well,
moves back and forth) at a very slow speed, but still has that problem of
the pits wearing it out. In the end, I had a small, constant, stream from
the gland tightened as far as I could make it go with a large pipe wrench
(constricted movement and access, as you might imagine from the pix)...
Years ago stuffing boxes with a lubrication system were common. Often
times with a "grease cup", but sometimes with a simple zerk fitting it
allowed injection of grease to lubricate the old time flax packing. If
one injected waterproof grease periodically it would likely reduce or
eliminate leakage.
I'd hope that I would not have to continously inject something, as the
interesting links below suggest :{))
See drawing of gland: http://royalpurpleindustrial.com/prodsi/cap.html
Better lubrication: http://www.gouldspumps.com/pag_0011.html
That looks like it might do the job. Wonder if I could get just a couple of
ounces??
Finally: while, of course, the ultimate solution is to replace the
rudder & shaft assembly :-( is it possible to rebuild the packing
gland installation so that the gland falls above the damaged area?
With a hose perhaps, similar to most propeller shaft glands?
Yes, that's one of the potentials. Use a packing gland hose to extend, and
a nipple to accept the the nut currently used. Of course, I'd have to turn
a bevel into the nipple to provide the seat for the packing material. Or,
as above, a coupling and a nipple. The hose, if long enough (see
difficulties in access the higher it goes for discouragements), can be
shortened in the event of repeated corrosion (bring the gland down to
unaffected shaft).
The same concept can be used in the form of a dripless, but that would
likely put it even higher. In any event, I'd have to get the rotating part
above any faults for it to be watertight. In this case, that means about 3"
or so.
I can't see, but is the gland acting as an upper shaft "bearing", if
not, it might be possible to make an extension for the present shaft
that clamps on the top of the shaft to mount the quadrant and various
rudder indicating senders and simply raise the stuffing box.
No, it's not. The delrin rings in both portions of the square plates are
the bearings. There's no room above the shaft without entering the berth
space, so extension (never mind the keyway slot and the opposing slot to
allow engagement of an emergency tiller, which, based on the marks and
deformation of the slots, has been done at least once in the past; I had to
peen the defects created in the slot sides in order to get the bearings and
control arm off) wouldn't work, either...
Of course, the ultimate fact is that whatever you do, other then
sticking more whatever in the gland, which didn't work, any final
solution you decide on will probably cost you money.
Heh. Nothing in boat$ doe$sn't cost money. And, I already have been using 4
instead of the typical 2 or 3 rings of packing material...
Addendum: I just happened to think of one more possible solution. You
might try shrinking a section of "shrink tubing" over the shaft in the
gland area. this is a shrinkable plastic sleeve used to insulate and
waterproof electrical connections. Initially it is large enough to
slip over the joint and then you shrink it by heating with a hot air
gun. Comes in 3 foot lengths, I believe.
If you use it do go to a commercial electrical shop and get the type
with the glue inside - they will know what you are talking about. It
is much more robust then the hobby shope stuff. Be aware though that
the industrial stuff takes either a commercial hot air gun or a gas
torch to shrink. Not the hair drier like the hobby shop stuff.
Thanks for the thought. I don't know that such would stand up to the
stress, and, likely, would depress into whatever remains of the pits I've
been working on, creating opportunities for failure of that material.
The good news (relatively, of course) is that even after my most recent
aggressive run at it with a wire wheel, the pits are much better. However,
anything other than fully smooth just delays the issue. If I were to do any
form of sleeve, it likely will be the SS one mentioned in my other response,
courtesy of the Morgan mailing list member who alerted me to it.
Various other suggestions are still coming in, and I haven't heard back from
the SKF folks yet to confirm that it could work in my case.
Still, lots of options, one or more of which are likely to do the trick;
I'll just have to make my choice.
L8R
Skip
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