On Tue, 2 Aug 2011 08:11:16 -0400, "Flying Pig"
wrote:



As to the gas, it takes all of 6 ounces to fully charge our system, so
hunting for bargains on cans isn't a high priority :{)) When we bought our
car here and the AC failed after some work on other stuff, the mechanic who
screwed it up claimed he'd put gauges on it and found no pressure (instead,
the failure of the AC to run was his neglect of not putting on the high-temp
alarm connection back on when he did some other work); I bought a can with a
trigger and gauge; it read 150# (and was able to return it immediately from
outside AutoZone where I'd tested it), so I knew he was full of ****. As to
the WalMart can lead Neal provided, it has oil, and Danfoss is adamant about
putting in nothing other than straight gas, so I'd get the one without, if I
went that route for charging (still have the challenge of attaching the
pop-on end, of course; perhaps I'd have to buy an adapter such as his boat
pic showed for the other end of the ell-connection on the gauges - anyone
have a name for that fitting? It would be one which screws onto a 134a tap,
not a standard R12 [or, at least, the gauges suggest it's only for 134a, so
I presume there's a difference]).


I can't venture anything more because I've only done automobile AC.
As I recall from having a R12 to 134A conversion done they use
different connectors.
My gauge manifold sets are post-R12.
Good you take only 6 ounces.
Most auto systems I've worked on take close to 3 lbs.
When one goes bad with a slow leak you end up losing a few cans before
all is said and done.
I like to have about 6 cans available.
Besides that I inject dye and oil separately as needed, and don't want
any "stop leak" products in the system.
One time an auto store I went into had only adulterated 134A.

--Vic