1 Never ever beleive a mechanic when he mentions Large Amount of Cash
to replace the engine is the solution.

2. After the flow stops and the engine cools sufficient to work on it.
Remove the outlet water hose from the exhaust manifold and see if there
is water flow. If not flow, remove the inlet hose to the exhaust
manifold to see if there is flow, if flow at the inlet and not at the
outlet ..... remove the exhaust manifold and poke inside with a stiff
wire to break up all the 'platelette' rust slabs. Turn the manifold
upside down and shake out all the debris. Cast iron manifolds are
vulnerable to "slab rust" and occasionally the loose slabs
intermittantly block the passages.

A Yanmar with 1800 hrs. on it ........ isnt fully 'broken in".
Hope this helps




In article , Jeffrey P.
Vasquez wrote:

Hello all,

It's me again and I've a new riddle to pose to you. It's the S2 with the
raw-water cooled Yanmar in a marine environment again. Here's the latest:

1) Through-hull has been thoroughly cleaned.
2) Raw water strainer and hoses have been replaced.
3) Water pump has been replaced.
4) Thermostat has been replaced.
5) Mixing elbow has been replaced.
6) Entire system has been "Marsolved" (marine solvent)

Here are the symptoms:

When the engine is first started there is a good flow of water through
the system as evidenced from the exhaust. The engine runs to temperature
(150F) and operates fine indefinitely with no fluctuation in temperature
at operating rpm.

After operating at temperature for some fifteen minutes (arbitrary, but
approximately the time it takes to clear the marina and channel), the
engine is stopped and allowed to cool. After cooling the engine is
restarted and no flow of water is observed as evidenced by the exhaust.
Running at idle or at operating rpm does not alter the condition and the
engine heats to alarm. This has been confirmed in absence of sailing,
i.e. a siphon break was suspected (and may have been a past culprit), so
the hoses were rerouted to ensure positive pressure to the water pump
when the boat is level.

If the system is disassembled upstream to downstream (after cooling
sufficient to touch), flow through it at all points is observed. If the
system is reassembled it will at this point again function properly.

I would liken this behavior to vapor lock in automobile fuel systems, but
I have no understanding how this would be relevant to the Yanmar cooling
system.

The mechanic's diagnosis is blockage in the engine block itself and the
suggested recommendation is replace the entire engine.

Any opinions, experience, recommendations or wild-eyed guesses would be
infinitely appreciated as always. If engine replacement is the correct
course of action, what does one do with a Yanmar 2GM with about 1800
hours and a suspected cooling blockage?

Many thanks!