On Mon, 04 Jul 2011 01:31:05 -0500, CaveLamb
wrote:

Bruce wrote:
On Sun, 03 Jul 2011 14:21:25 -0500, CaveLamb
wrote:

Copy all that, Wilbur.

I have a boltrope with a slug at each end of the foot.

The one I think I may need to add would be at the foot of the luff.
(I think you had the picture of it right from what you said)

The tack/luff pulls aft below the bottom luff slug, which is a bit
over a foot up from the tack corner.

The tack fitting is an inverted U thing that pins through the
gooseneck laterally. It can swing fore/aft. So any pressure
on the sail, or tension on the outhaul, pulls the bottom tack corner
of the sail aft of vertical (of the rest of the luff).

That seems to be the source of the odd wrinkle at the aft end
of the shelf.

I tied a line through the tack ring, around the mast, and pulled
the foot forward an inch or two. That made the shelf look a lot
better.

Will take a closer look at it in the next few days and discuss it
with the sail loft before messing with it though...

The tack fitting is often is built into the boom gooseneck. If you are
making a new fitting (I thought I saw you on another group) you might
incorporate that. See
http://www.sparcraft.fr/fr/produits/...1.jpg?54682,18
for an example.

If you reef using only a reefing line on the leech you can incorporate
a hook at the gooseneck for the luff reefing cringle.

If you are using a loose footed sail (the movie wasn't very clear) I
wouldn't use a slug at either end, assuming that the gooseneck fitting
holds the tack properly. Unless the sail maker tells you can I
wouldn't use a slug on the clew as usually a loose footed sail is
designed to be attached only at the tack and the clew. Adding one
additional attaching point might concentrate stress where it wasn't
intended.

Cheers,

Bruce

Hi Bruce,

No, it's not loose footed.
I'm far too hung-up for a loose footed main sail. :0

Yes. I understand what you are saying about an unexpected stress concentration.
That's why I'll ask the loft about it before doing anything.

My gooseneck is similar to the one you showed, except that the inverted U-ie
is a bit further aft on mine...

Sorry this pics is more from underneath.
But it is in focus!
Can you see that extra inch aft?

http://www.home.earthlink.net/~cavelamb/DSCF0080a.JPG

By the way, the quote on the replacement fitting was $275.
That's actually not bat for what I'd get.
But it's a bit over budget at the moment.

I patched up the old fitting and pt it back in service.
For now...

Yes, the tack hook (whatever) should be closer to the mast, but what
in the world is that added link running from the fwd end of the boom
to the mast?

By the way, if you can weld you can make all the rigging fittings you
need. I use a section of large tube and cut a half round section to
fit against the mast (maybe beat it with a hammer to make it fit) and
cut flat stuff to shape with a 4 inch angle grinder and weld it
together with a small stick welder. You can buy welding electrodes in
various alloys of stainless and thickness (small diameter = lower
amperage and less burn through) and you can passivate them with many
acids (I've used a strong tile cleaner) or buy a special "stainless
passivating" stuff, or alternately buy a polishing head and some
abrasive and polish them.

To do the job correctly you should mount them to an aluminum mast
using an insulating gasket and an insulating sealant for the bolts. I
usually use plastic cut from any sort of flat sided plastic bottle and
either sikaflex 291 or 292 or 3M 5200, either of which also makes a
good thread lock :-)

Cheers,

Bruce
(bruceinbangkokatgmaildotcom)