Thread: Getting hosed
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Glenn Ashmore
 
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Default Getting hosed

Support the pipe well every 24-26". Do not allow the fittings to be
subjected to stress. The Shields and Sealand fittings only come
straight and 90s. Try to use the straights where ever possible and
sweeps on all pipe to pipe turns.

Like I said, I have some extra hose fittings if you need them.

Skip Gundlach wrote:

A brief followup to the original question, which was about Sealand
OdorsafePlus and other sanitation hose:

Various posters have worried over, or enthused over, PVC as boat pipe. In
particular, though:

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:kXYec.669$uF3.447@lakeread04...

You don't need a whole lot. I talked to Ed McKunen, president of
Sealand (and not my favorite person) about it. We recommend making your
longer runs in Schedule 40 PVC with short lengths of Odorsafe to absorb
vibration and movement.



From this - and the presence of a large number of fittings on their site - I
infer that using PVC where possible is the preferred modus. Is that so?
And WRT movement, is it better to let it hang, with the hose being the boat
equivalent of muffler hangers on a car, or to support longer sections firmly
(e.g. the riser to the vented loop, which could be secured to a bulkhead)?

And one other question - am I likely to find these fittings at a West, or
are they direct or special order? Should I use large radius fittings in
between ends, or just their 90s?

I'm thrilled to think that I might be able to use PVC for large segments of
the waste plumbing - not so much for cost, but that it would (presumably) be
the end of it, not to mention that the smallest possible segments of *any*
hose would limit the amount of exposure to future smelly issues..

Thanks for any experience...

L8R

Skip


--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
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