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Don Won Don Won is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Dec 2010
Posts: 29
Default Not one boating post since midnight

In article ,
says...

On 12/10/10 12:58 PM, John H wrote:
On Fri, 10 Dec 2010 06:26:06 -0500, wrote:

On 12/9/10 10:16 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 09 Dec 2010 16:37:45 -0500,
wrote:

My plan is to visit some of
the larger boat yards and see what they are using locally. Beyond that,
any recommendations?

There are plenty of good bottom paints offered in black. I've been
using Micron Ultra with fairly good results considering that the boat
is usually in semi tropical water 12 months of the year. We typically
go 2 full years before repainting although it clearly is starting to
lose some effectiveness towards the end. It didn't seem to work that
well in the Caribbean however. We had types of fouling that I'd
never seen before and it grew incredibly quickly.

I'd ask around with some of your local boat yard managers. They
usually have a pretty good idea what works well in your area. In any
case you'll probably want to have a diver clean the bottom every month
or two. It makes a big difference in speed and fuel burn, easily
paying for itself.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|296162|11000|311496|368288|586729&id=73825 7



Thanks for the advice. I'll check out the Micron. I like this line in
the description:

"This includes warmer waters with greater land runoff and slime-causing
algae."

I don't know if we have "warmer waters," but we sure have the runoff and
algae.


After reading your post, I immediately began searching Google for info on bottom
paints. Most folks said, "Let the professionals do it." That made good sense.
But the post that seemed to make the most sense, in response to the question,
"What kind of paint should I use on my hull?"

The answer, "Waterproof."

Makes sense to me.



Gee, I wonder how well "waterproof" anti-fouling bottom paint ablates.


Quite well, actually. In the case of WD-40, if you coat everything it
will indeed corrosion proof something. I know you're a liberal arts
major so you should know this, but in order for something to corrode,
there has to be an electrolyte, water or moist air. etc. Take that away,
as with Water Displacement #40 and guess what?