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Secular Humanist[_2_] Secular Humanist[_2_] is offline
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Aug 2010
Posts: 61
Default best way to reseat stanchion posts

On 8/29/10 11:47 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Secular Humanist" wrote in message
...
On 8/29/10 11:18 AM, YukonBound wrote:


"Jim" wrote in message
...
bpuharic wrote:
On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 23:54:01 -0500, Jim wrote:

Larry wrote:
bpuharic wrote:
coming into dock today, the wind caught me and slammed me into a
piling...popped a few screws on the rail stanchion posts where they
hit the deck.

was thinking of just putting some wood into the holes, sealing them
with adhesive/sealant and replacing the screws.

any better methods? getting to the holes from under the deck is
damn
near impossible

How big are the holes? Putting wood in them? - they must be huge.
Post a photo if you can, but I think you need some epoxy.

Filling and gluing in holes with wood dowel stock is old as the
hills.
Dowel comes in hardwood and softwood in 1/8" to +2" stock.
I've even glued in toothpicks in a pinch.
Tim's suggestion to tap a suitable Marinetex filler will work.
But stanchions get stressed and are a safety concern.
I would drill new holes and epoxy in threaded inserts.
Non-expanding type.
Examples here.

thanks jim, looks like an interesting option

Just remember the REAL right way to do it, if it's a deck mounted
lifeline stanchion, is to attach at the backing plate if they were used
when the boat was built, and add a backing plate if they didn't build
with one.
Short handrail/grabrail stanchions might have backing plates or not.
Deckmounted lifeline stanchions usually do, but even "quality"
boatmakers sometimes cut corners and use plastic or washers as
"backplates."
I don't stand behind any advice I give.
Make sure your deck is sound.
Stay safe.
Use your best judgement.
See this article our old pal Norm wrote,
http://www.goodoldboat.com/reader_se.../stanchion.php

Jim - Everybody CYA.



When I purchased my 18 year old sailboat, the owner included the
stanchions and lifelines. It was an extra that had never been installed.
I used a 1/4" aluminum plate backing to make sure the stanchions were
good & strong.



I have a friend I sometimes take out on my Parker. He suffered a
serious leg injury some years ago and has never really recovered,
despite many trips to various doctors. Anyway, because of a weak leg,
he has trouble using the folding boarding ladder/platform at the back
of the boat after a swim. So I ordered a stainless "handle" from
Parker to install on the transom above the boarding ladder. As soon as
it arrives at the dealer, I'll be taking it to the welding shop next
door so the guys there can measure, cut and drill a backing plate for
me. These run about $10 for a bit of stainless scrap cut and drilled
to size.

I had gone to a metal shop and had them cut a 4" x 36" strip of 1/8"
stainless steel for that purpose, but I found it too hard to cut & drill.
(I ended up getting a drill press for a birthday) Anyway, I found the
1/4" aluminum easier to deal with.



No doubt about it...which is why I have the welding shop drill it on the
drill press.