"Tim" wrote in message
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On Mar 31, 10:19 am, "mmc" wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

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On Mar 31, 8:30 am, "mmc" wrote:





"Tim" wrote in message

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On Mar 30, 3:28 pm, hk wrote:

On 3/30/10 4:02 PM, Tim wrote:

Yeah, I ahve some jerry cans but they're to heavy, but I couldn't
believe it when the wife said we could carry some fresh water in
gallon milk jugs (huh?) but sounds good to me.

Plastic milk jugs are made of very thin-walled plastic, and can't take
much of a hit before they puncture. Why not buy two six packs of one
pint water bottles, save the bottles as you drink the water, and then
wash them off and refill them?

My little Parker has a 20 or 25 gallon insulated baitwell under the
pedestal seats. But when I have live bait, I keep it in a separate
baitwell, which means the bigger baitwell is available for use as a
cooler. I dump a couple bags of ice in it and stow drinks in it. At
the
end of the day, I simply pull the unopened drinks out and let the
baitwell drain on its own accord. I keep my refilled water bottles in
there.

I also have a few igloo coolers of various sizes, and typically take
one
of the smaller ones aboard for food storage.

--http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym

Well that's what I was thinking about the milk jugs. And really I was
surprised that she mentioned it, because it really seemed below her
order of things to offer the suggestion. Plus, the idea is to keep the
interior as un- cluttered ans possible. That's why I'm thinking on
going with a couple of thin line 5 gal. heavy plastic containers with
either an electric or air pump and using a shower nozzle for supply.

Yes, keep the drinking water in the cooler!

--------

We freeze gallon jugs of juice and milk for camping and boating trips
(also
chicken and meat) and use this to keep other (non frozen) foods cold. We
use
everything as it thaws and this saves on ice and cuts out the water
pooling
in the bottom of the coolers..- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Another reason why I wanted to 'try' to use the fridge is for weight.
50 lb fridge loaded is still lighter than a couple big coolers loaded
with ice etc. and mroe compact too! But then again, using a couple
more batteries etc it may be a toss up. But with the batteries etc I
can space them around th hull to where they're not sitting like a
chunk of lead (pardon the pun) in one spot.

That's what I'm looking for is to take advantage of wasted space and
weight distribution on the boat.

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A fridge would be nice.
Engle has some nice (and pricey) portable refers that run on 12vdc and are
very efficient. One of the features that makes them efficient is like boat
iceboxes, they are top loading and this helps to keep the cold air in,
instead of allowing it to spill out whenever the door is opened.
I would just make sure my boat (starting) battery is/can be isolated from
the house (fridge) so that you don't wake up to a long paddle to shore!
Arrgh!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Oh yes. a battery isolator is mandatory. Sure Power Industries has a
nice little isolator (Model 702) which is available though NAPA or
various places for about 40-50 bucks. But it's rated for a max of 70a.
I've got a good one around here that's up to 200. Not that it will be
that necessary, but it's available.

?;^ )


Wayne filled me in on the 12v top lids and yes they're pricy. I bought
my 12/120v Nord front loader from a guy that was scrapping out a
camper for $50.00 and it's in very good condition.
---------
$50! I'd make it work too! Those Engel are very pricey.
you could probably get the isolator with a little picture of a boat on it
from Worst Mairne for double that?