Originally Posted by Skip Gundlach

Thanks for the link. I'm curious as to why the 214 is 2.3, the 213 1.9, 400
has (since not delineated, I presume all of the types) 1.2 attenuation over
100'. Seems to me a silver center on the 214MIL would give better throughput
(?). The 400 stranded center gives a 1" radius, the UF version has tinned
copper braid (but the foam dielectric, not so great) - I presume the 214
would be similar?

Given that 3db is 50%, I'm wondering if 1.2 vs 2.3 is an issue; presumably
the foam core would be more of an issue, long term?

I apologize for my slow learning curve. It's "make the center
waterproof/non-absorbent" or "throughput is critical" arguments which have
me dithering. Certainly, all seem to have adequate shielding, what with
either tinned or silver-copper braid. Finally, as to this particular vendor,
do they make up cables, or is it strictly raw stuff? I'm wanting a factory
end on the mast, but due to size considerations, would make up my inside
connection after feeding it. Thanks. L8R Skip and crew, currently in
Abacos

Originally Posted by btrayfors

Don't sweat the db difference. Neither you nor anyone
else will ever notice it!

Yes, The RF Connection can put ends on coax. When you get to putting on your
end, here's how I do it:

1. cut the outer insulation (not the braid) back 1.5" from the end, and
remove it; you now have bare braid 1.5" long.

2. tin the braid all around in the area 1" to 1.25" from the end; keep the
tinning as smooth and thin as possible.

3. using a tube cutter carefully, cut just through both layers of the
now-tinned braid 1" from the end; then remove the 1" of the tinned braid,
leaving the center conductor and it's insulation intact.

4. strip the center conductor beginning about 1/8" from the braid; you how
have a bare center conductor, about 1/8" of insulation showing, and the
tinned braid.

5. put 1/2" ID x 1" adhesive heat shrink tubing over the coax and slide it
out of the way.

6. put the screw on shell of the PL-259 connector over the coax and slide it
out of the way.

7. carefully insert the coax into the PL-259 body, making sure the center
conductor completely enters the pin, without any wild strands.

8. using considerable strength, screw the PL-259 body onto the outer
(rubber) layer of coax; you should be able to get a few whole turns; this
makes for a very tight connection. The center conductor should be extending
out the end of the pin, and you should be seeing the tinned braid in each of
the four holes, ready for soldering.

9. solder the center pin, and each of the four holes in turn; clean up any
excess.

10. screw the outer body onto the PL-259 all the way.

11. slide the heat shrink tubing up over the barrel of the PL-259, leaving
about 1/8"-3/16" of the body clear; use a heat gun to shrink the tubing over
the PL-259 barrel and the RG-214 coax. You should have a first-class
connection.

Yes, it takes time. No good shortcuts. Do it right; it will last many years.

After you've made the coax connection with the PL-259, it's a good idea to
tape over it in order to further protect it against the marine
environment.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

I would add to Bill's excellent instructions, use
"Solder-It" paste instead of regular rosin-cored solder. The paste makes it
very easy to spread and wet out a braid and seems to melt at lower
temperatures, so that you've got a better chance of making a 100% connection
without melting any of the insulating layer. Probably $5-6 for a tube, which
makes it more expensive than solder (and it goes bad, hardens up in about 18
months on the shelf) but a much more reliable (=cheaper) way to do
occassional antenna fittings and the like. http://www.solder-it.com
sometimes available at Radio Shack (check the date) and Lowes but not Home
Depot.