On Fri, 27 Nov 2009 11:19:38 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"H the K" wrote in message
...
Don White wrote:
"Bill McKee" wrote in message
...
"Don White" wrote in message
...
"John H" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Nov 2009 13:01:12 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:

"John H" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Nov 2009 23:08:59 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 09:19:47 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:

I cant understand why anyone would own a Bunk Trailer.
Bunks support the hull more evenly, no risk of "roller dimples".
Rollers require replacement and maintenance, bunks last a long
time.

Rollers however are better on difficult ramps or launching with no
ramp at all.

The best is bunks with plastic on top. Boat slides easily. Lots
of
support.

Bill, I think I saw in an earlier post a mention of a special
plastic.
What was it, and how is it mounted on your bunks?
--

John H
UHMW. Screwed to the bunks. The new trailer is aluminum bunks, but
you can
also get slide strips at West Marine. UHMW is available at a good
plastics
supplier.
http://www.midlandplastics.com/srtd_polyolefins.htm
They use it in rock trucks to protect the bed and make the rocks
slide out
easier.

OK, that's a help. Now, is it cut into 2" strips and screwed on? How
thick are the pieces. I assume the screws are countersunk, so the
strips must be 1/2" or thereabouts?

I'm trying to picture this, but have never seen it before. Have a
picture by any chance?
--

John H

Good Lord.
A lot of trailers I've seen come with the 'plastic coverings'.
Go look at Venture Trailers. I believe they call theirs 'poly sleeves'

So he has not seen them and is asking questions. Sounds a lot smarter
than you. My bunks are 4" wide and the plastic shop will cut the
material. Mine is about 1/2" but you could go a little thinner, but the
cost is probably close. And the screws are countersunk flatheads.

Well...here's something to ponder genius...
I was told that if grit gets between the plastic and a gelcoat surface,
it's more likely to scratch than if the grit gets caught up in a carpeted
bunk.
I was told to apply 'Joy' or 'New Dawn' liquid dish soap on the bunks.
When they get wet, they'll be slippery enough and when dry..hold the boat
in place a bit better.

Another problem reported with the plastic sliders...the screws that fasten
them to the wood bunks sometimes come loose, leaving a screwhead exposed
to grind its way through the gelcoat on the bottom of your boat as you
launch and retrieve it.

The liquid soap works. I use a silicon spray, forgot the trade name, that
is sold to lube trailer bunks. We're also "blessed" with some decent ramps
around here, well-paved, and steep enough to make launching and retrieval
fairly easy.



--
If you are flajim, herring, loogy, GC boater, johnson, topbassdog, rob,
achmed the sock puppet, or one of a half dozen others, you're wasting your
time by trying to *communicate* with me through rec.boats, because, well,
you are among the permanent members of my dumbfoch dumpster, and I don't
read the vomit you post, except by accident on occasion. As always, have a
nice, simple-minded day.

I run a 3/16"thick aluminum boat. Run the flat head screws through the wood
bunk and use a lock nut. A little grit will just polish the bottom. There
are also Glide strips, check West Marine, or Cabela's etc. May be better on
a glass boat.


I suppose a real dumb ass would allow the screws to come loose and
scratch up the bottom of the boat.

My trailer manufacturer, Venture, sells them as an accessory. I'll
check them out once the holidays are over.

Thanks for the info, by the way.
--

John H